According to the diagram above, one would have to have nails long enough to penetrate through 6" (this is what the diagram states) of styrofoam insulation in order to install the roof sheathing to enable the application of shingles. I have never seen such a configuration on any roof installed here. I can see the logic behind it, but frankly, I'm not sure where one would get those 6" screws, nor how many people would be willing to pay for the cost of two or three layers of rigid foam to be laid on their roof. I'd also wonder how someone would stage a roof layered in poly in order to follow up with installing shingles, particularly on a steep pitch roof and especially an A frame roof that would be not only steep but long. I'm open to learn something new everyday, someone take me to school on this one because I'm seeing this as workable in the real world.

I LOVE my Kitchenaid. I used it all the time in my last house, which I had a mixer lift in. I'm in temporary housing on OH how I miss it! I still don't know if we will build new or buy this place and renovate- but either way the mixer lift is a must-have! I'm also tickled to find out that I can replace some of the cabinets with drawers- if I can do this, there's no reason at all to replace the whole kitchen, which will save us $10,000+

You need to use a studfinder, or metal detector, or some means of locating studs. If you can't find them, consult a professional. I don't know how heavy that stand is, it's likelyi heavy enough to support the tv extended as long as it's not too far out even if attached to the lathe, but I'd never trust it, not for a second. For the verticals, besides the bottom screws, I would expect at least wood glue, and likely dowels of some sort along the top and maybe along the back. If you remove the bottom screws, will the vertical piece move slightly side to side? If so, it's just attached at the top. If it doesn't really move, then it's probably affixed at the back as well. You could use a very thin kerf to cut between the woods, but it may not be the prettiest. Your TV and stuff would likely cover most of it though.

Last year the microwave above my single wall oven died and I ended up replacing both with a combo microwave/wall oven from LG and it required cabinet modifications to fit. I purchased the new microwave/oven combo at Best Buy and they referred me to a local company they use for such modifications. I was charged a total of $430 to modify the cabinet and it left a huge 4 inch tall gap above the top of the unit, which they filled with basic ugly plywood. Had I known they would use plywood or had I been wise enough to research, I would have consulted a cabinetmaker instead and spent more money to have it done properly. Just to give you a ballpark idea of cost, after expressing displeasure with the plywood, the company I used told me it would cost ANOTHER $400-$500 to remove the plywood, move the unit up higher, and build a base below to support it. This would put the gap lower, out of eyesight instead of being at eye level. That is ONLY the cost of the cabinet modification. It does not include any material to cover the gap, like a custom made piece of matching stainless steel (LG doesn't offer a trim kit for my model) or a fake cabinet front, etc. Just the bare bones labor of building a base and a piece of plywood to cover the hole. Whatever brand you choose and however you decide to place your appliances, be sure to do your research - ask how gaps will be filled, what material will be used, find out whether a trim kit for your chosen brand/model exists or if you'll have to have to pay extra through another company to have a custom piece of stainless steel made to hide any gaps, etc. I'd consult at least 3 different places for quotes before making a decision. Please don't be dense like me and end up with a crappy piece of plywood right at eye level! 🙃