Split Gambrel entryway exterior bump out
25 days ago
last modified: 25 days ago
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- 25 days ago
- 25 days agolast modified: 25 days ago
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help with dental moulding on exterior bump out... pics included!
Comments (3)I would think that a carpenter should be able to make everything look right with three pieces of 1x6 and a piece of whatever they are using to make the ceiling on your porch. Here's what I would suggest. First, cut a piece of 1x6 the length of your bumpout minus about 6 to 8 inches. Then cut two more pieces of 1x6 the length of those four support braces minus however much "dentil molding" you want showing and minus the thickness of a piece of 1x6. Now, cut four notches along one edge of the long piece of 1x6 so that the four support braces will fit INTO the notches. Put the three boards together like so: Attach this structure to the bottom of the bumpout and tight against the house so that just the ends of the support braces stick out. Small L-brackets attached to the "inside" edges of the boards ahead of time will make it easier to attach the structure to the bottom of the bumpout. (Sorry but my drawing skills on PAINT aren't good enough to show the L-brackets but it should be obvious where they will need to go.) Now, cut a piece of the material that was used on your porch ceiling so that it will fit INSIDE the structure. Attach this to the the bottoms of the supports so that they are hidden except for the parts that stick out thru the notches. Now, the only portions of the supports that you'll be able to see will be the ends and, once everything is painted white, they should look like the dentils you have on the front of the house. Because the entire structure is tucked UNDER the bumpout by 3 to 4 inches on all sides, all of the screw/nail holes will be protected from weather. Thus no flashing should be needed. Just caulk good where the structure butts up against the bottom of the bumpout and around the notches...mostly to keep bugs from crawing inside and using the hollow spaces as places to nest. If you house is sided with Hardie, they should be able to do this with 1x5 Hardie trim boards instead of 1x6 wood although cutting the notches without splitting the fiber-cement will take a sharp saw and somebody with a little bit of real skill in working with Hardie. Good luck....See MoreKitchen layout - debating bump out addition
Comments (24)Jillius* You are amazing - you are coming up with some great options to consider: - I'm overstating here, but there's a little knot in my stomach about giving up the built in cabinet of the family room and the pantry. I have a lot of stuff for entertaining in the built in and I'm a bit of a over-buyer for pantry staples. The knot could actually be that I'm hungry because I didn't have time for lunch today. =) There is probably plenty of space in this galley layout but I would have to map it out. - The flow to get to the deck requires a long walk around the longer half wall. One of my original goals was to move the entrance to the family room north so there was more of a direct line to the sliding door to the deck. This moves the path to the sliding door even further. Sorry - I was holding out on this goal and that isn't fair! - The 30 inch counters will give my plenty of prep space, but a galley layout (is that what you would say the option w/the prep area to the south would be called?) seems to serve the purpose of a functional kitchen and pass through space versus a center of our main level. - Giving up the kitchen table, could be the problem my existing kitchen table - it is probably too big for the space (42x60 oval) - by the time you add chairs and keep it away from the wall for the 4th seat, it is "in the way". If I downsize to a more appropriate size then it just feels like an afterthought or a dinky table just to have one that is permanently part of the landscape. If island seating doesn't work out, I'd rather give up seating in the kitchen and just have all meals in the dining room. A coworker sent me this link today, maybe this is a design option: Pull out tables - 4 foot bump out - I'll attach some photos in the next post, but basically, the aesthetics of the backyard - both a hypothetical wall closing off part of the deck and a ceiling above the patio with a pillar of some sort means the look & feel of the backyard will be just different and maybe not look "natural" - instead we have this bolt-on part of the house that looks funky. Jenn *I accidentally referred to you as "Amanda" in the last response - I got confused with Huango. Sorry about that....See MoreModernize colonial split-entry exterior.
Comments (5)Don't try to make your house something it's not. It's a colonial so let it be just that. I would remove that center gable above the entry door as it looks a little out of place, IMHO. I really like the house color in the pic that marissapower posted and think it would really help modernize your home but yet it would maintain its colonial character....See MoreImprove curb appeal on split level with gambrel roof
Comments (1)I would start by changing the siding color , removing the shutters, widen the walkway , do low plantings in front of the left side of the entry to be able to see a couple of nice colorful chairs there . This is one of my favourite colors for siding with brick and you could even do the trim and garage door. Then some new landscaping . A whole new look . I agree the roof redo will be expensive and not really going to work without huge work...See MoreRelated Professionals
Lyons Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Troy General Contractors · East Hanover Interior Designers & Decorators · Buena Park General Contractors · Deer Park General Contractors · Mount Vernon General Contractors · Clark Furniture & Accessories · Pinehurst Furniture & Accessories · Cottage Grove General Contractors · Lighthouse Point General Contractors · Walker General Contractors · Waxahachie General Contractors · Saint James Cabinets & Cabinetry · Belvedere Park Flooring Contractors · Jenison Flooring Contractors- 25 days ago
- 24 days agolast modified: 24 days ago
- 23 days ago
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