cabinet / sofit question. need your help please!!!
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Help Needed! My before pics...Please give me your opinions....
Comments (7)OK, your replies are just what I needed to hear to get me more focused... and browsing the FKB and everywhere else I could google a picture. Kelleg, I am attracted to clean lines.... and this has been creeping up on me over the past year or so. We have so much stuff. Old stuff. Antiques, etc. I want a space that is fresh. Although the cabinets are shaker they are a modern shaker...so I can pull it off, I think. The black sink will be history... I'm drooling over the Orca...but not worried about that decision yet. I'm thinking about Labrador Antique or Blue Eyes for the tops...and I really liked RemodelFla's idea of a limestone look porcelain tile, or maybe even grey. How about that? Igloochick...been thinking about your story all weekend...hoping things will work out for you. Off topic, but, Yandi...Jasmine is my bestest girl. She will be 14 in June...we lost her brother (ache, ache) a year ago in January. We also have a Scotty and a cat...so are thinking we wanted hardwood, but will probably do tile...we had it in our last home and loved it. It looked sort of like mud :) I wonder if Labrador Antique and Blue Eyes are considered the same price point? Gotta get up for work tomorrow...so I'd better quit obsessing and get some sleep! I really appreciate your responses......See MoreCabinet pulls revisited - specific question, please help!
Comments (12)@jellytoast - thank you, that was one thread I hadn't seen (probably the only one, lol) A question for you all: our house is Edwardian but the interior would best be described as "transitional" - not period but not particularly modern either. I envisage the kitchen to be "transitional" too - white shaker cabs, keeping the existing rough slate tile floors, Caesarstone Urban benchtop (mid-grey), SS appliances. Are double pulls going to be too ye olde worlde? The pulls will be satin nickel as I felt antique pewter or antique silver did look a bit too traditional... I do definitely want to use double pulls on the 36" stack but this is a purely financial decision. 5" pulls are $5 each, whereas 10" pulls (which is the size I'd use on 36" drawers as a single) are $100 or so. Even 8" pulls are $55 - which is what I'd use on the 30" drawers if using 10" on the 36" drawers (does that make sense?) so the cost really does add up in the scheme of things. We plan to sell the house in about 5 years' time and since I like the double pull look as well, $ definitely comes into it. This post was edited by dibdot on Wed, May 14, 14 at 0:29...See MoreLaurat88 -- question about your cabinets, please
Comments (6)ck_squared, DH and I can't wait to see the finished kitchen either! We have been dealing with some serious health and financial issues for both of my parents the last 3 months, so the remodel has been a low priority. Kitchen still needs: hood, backsplash, appliance toe kicks, steam oven installion, French door stained or painted, Solyx film to obscure contents of pantry cabinets, finish light and outlet installation, painting touch ups and barstools. (At least the kitchen is close, the bathroom is still a gutted space.) I would post "nearly done" photos, but the paperwork for my parents' insurance claims and VA benefits is spread all over the island right now....See MoreNeed help quick! Question about your painted/glazed cabinets
Comments (13)OP, please forgive this OT commentary to answer Julie. You can email me, too, if you click on My Page. Julie, thank you for the compliments. It's taking me so long to finish that no one notices anything I do get done anymore! :o) Anyway, I posted something in the forum below about type of paint. As for painting 'pure white', I wouldn't do bright white, but something on the order of Behr's Swiss Chocolate, which is just a perfect, subtle white that will compliment your granite. I painted cabinets as described on the link below. After drying several days, I then took a small palm hand sander with 220 grit and sanded off the corners, edges, and high profile parts on the doors and other areas of the doors to show wearing away of paint. I then took a small 1" black foam brush and used Minwax stain on all of the exposed newly sanded wood, cleaning off excess stain off the paint and doors in about five minutes. You will have to choose a stain to compliment your granite and wood floors. This can be a messy process, so by a couple of boxes of disposable medical gloves. This is the best, easiest way to keep a messy job 'clean'. Especially if you work in the house like I do. Once stained, let it dry a day. Then I mixed the glaze as I described on the web address in this paragraph, except I painted it around all of the edges of the door profile to accent and define the interior areas. (I mixed up about a pint of glaze at a time.) I wanted a more dramatic look to my doors, so I left a lot more product on my doors that the average pro painter. Use a 2.5" sash brush by Wooster. I love Purdy brushes, but for this job, only the Wooster works the best. I know, I tried them all. http://www.sherichase.com/progress/July2008Update.htm . After the glaze, I also did another technique to the doors using an oak colored stain on the raised, thickest part of the door to give it a more golden, rustic look. I have a similar pattern in my kitchen table, except it has a light grey glaze. I did dry-dragging of a large brush across the front face of the doors with the light oak stain. It's subtle, but gives dimension and character when you're up close. I can take a better photo if you like. Let this dry a day. Then I waxed the doors with clear Briwax. Ut takes about five minutes per door or so. Here's where I made a bit of a 'mistake'. I waxed with light brown, but I think it was a bit too yellow, so I'm removing some of it now. Half of the kitchen is waxed with clear, the other half I'm having to really work to get the wax off without messing up my paint job. So even on my photo above, you can see the uppers have brown wax and lowers have clear wax. It's all subtle. Well, I do have some of the brown wax off the upper in that photo. It's going to take some time and I have a lot to do right now. As always, wet sand BY HAND between every coat of anything you put on your doors: paint, glaze, etc. Just make sure the product has cured before you sand. Wet sanding is the best. I gradually work up to 600 grit. I am still working on my doors now and am not pass 320 grit, I believe. I still have to get off that brown wax. It's not coming off like I think it should with the clear wax. That being said, my kitchen photos show myriads of stages and mistakes. You can see my progress at: www.sherichase.com/progress to see where I started and am today. Email me and I'll give you my ph.# in case you need to call. FYI: Only use a hand palm sander to remove wood and paint. Do not 'wet sand' with any electrice machine. All wet sanding is done by hand. Light pressure with the grain, wetting the door with a fine mist spray bottle then wiping off excess with a microfiber cloth. Hope this helps. Here is a link that might be useful: Painting cabinets...See MoreRelated Professionals
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