Freeze damage worse than I've ever seen in 50 years
14 days ago
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- 14 days ago
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Please help!!! This is worse than blackspot, rust or PM!!!
Comments (50)For spider mites, I second Diane's advice. I've always heard that you do not need another chemical spray. Instead, water-spray (hard blast) with water-hose the undersides of leaves and repeat every few days. They should soon be gone. Back to your original problem, as seen in photos 1 and 2 (way back at the beginning of this thread)--if that is chili thrip damage, then is it also possible in Kansas? I planted a new rose last spring and by end of the summer, one cane started giving symptoms just like that first picture. I did radical surgery on it, cutting it down way below the strange growth, but then the lower new growth on that same remaining cane started showing the same damage. So I dug down into the soil and cut out that cane as low as I could. I haven't seen anything since, but by the time I did the last surgery, much cooler weather was moving in and none of my roses were doing any more growing, so I don't know if I solved the problem or not. All I know is that there are no signs now--but I keep wondering what will happen in the spring. I guess I'm wondering if chili thrips can survive freezing temperatures? Just in case my problem is chili thrips. We've had 12 degree temps here for a week now. By the way, that one cane was the only thing in my entire garden affected that way. I think the plant came from a California nursery, if that makes a difference. tropical--I'm so glad you have saved your roses! I just hope I don't have the same problem. Will have to review this thread next spring when my roses start growing again. Kate...See Moreoh... from bad to worse... hard freeze now expected
Comments (64)yup, thats a mango seedling treefrog, thanks. Im in the smack center of CA in Fresno. I live in the central valley where we get LONG dry summers (typically above 110 degrees) and cool, short, wet winters (Dec and half of Jan). So far, we've had a couple of frosty mornings, but nothing to hard to protect any plants. There is only a bit of damage to dypsis lutescens, majesty palm, hibiscus and bouganvillea. Temperatures begin to rise quickly begining this first week of January so there is minimal danger for any more damage than what is shown in the pics above....See MoreWindstorm #6? 8? 50? I've lost count....
Comments (19)The soil is fairly nutrient rich, heavy clay with varying degrees of 'hardpan' about 8-12 inches down. None of it has great drainage, but it is not a permanent swamp. In summer it all dries up and turns brown, even most of that lush looking stuff. We'll see what that means in the next 10 years, maybe most of my eucs will fall over during that time period. But so far, those that have had problems are in the minority. The E. viminalis did hit the fence, but the fence wasn't damaged. Thanks for the thoughts... it was a beautiful tree. It had a better than usual weeping habit for E. viminalis, and narrower than usual leaves and smooth white bark. This winter has been stormier than usual.... one of the stormiest I can remember, in fact. 1996-97 was pretty bad but I think this winter has been worse. Now whose ready for a nice arctic blast? Actually, it doesn't look too apocalyptic at this point.... just another moderate blast, not enough to make this the next landmark winter. On another note... I went and visited the Chrysolepis population near Hood Canal in early November. I found a lot more trees than I had managed to discover previously, including some that can be viewed from Highway 101 if you know just where too look, and some growing deep in the forest far away from salt water. This is a very interesting area in that it is very wet, receiving 80-100" of rain annually, but still dries out sufficiently in summer to support extensive populations of manzanita, madrona and Ceanothus velutinus....See MoreWind/Cold Damage, or Worse?
Comments (9)lil rhody Sorry to be so late in responding, end of a busy week. >1) How long (in terms of days) have you been trying to harden them off? Nominally since about 4/18, but with fits of stops and starts. We'd have a few nice days, then along would come a couple we evening temps dropping well below 50, and I'd pull them back in (bad experience with low temps stunting plants a few years back, guess I'm traumatized). >2) How long a period per day? What I try to accomplish (best that can fit in my life) is - Friday - A few afternoon hours in shady, wind-protected corner of porch, then back inside Saturday - Perhaps half a day (warm mid-day) in the shade of the porch Sunday - Most of the day in the shade of the porch Monday/Tuesday - When they go outside it is to a spot on the porch which gets an hour or so of morning sun, then shade, and a bit more breeze. ... By Thursday or so - Location on the porch that gets perhaps 3-4 hours of morning sun, then shade, and hopefully the plants remain outside overnight, with flat rotation to correct the leaning. ... By the following Saturday/Sunday - Move to the back deck, which has open sky all day, 4-5 hours of afternoon sunlight through tree canopy, more breeze. ... Plant the following weekend So two weeks of indoor/outdoor time prior to planting out. That was part of my target for planting last weekend, but the temps have been cool and some days the winds quite strong. I passed on planting last weekend due to nighttime temps dropping below 40. >3) How ofeten are you watering (the soil in those pots looks really wet) They were all watered the morning of the photo, as I found about half the plants overturned from the strong winds of the previous evening as the pots dried out. I water by using a separate flat full of water, putting a pot in and letting it sit until well soaked, then pulling it and putting it back in its dry flat. They never sit for long periods with wet feet, and after a watering I usually go for quite dry before watering again. Having to do a bit of balancing act since the plants are top-heavy and the winds on the back deck are worse than typical. The idea about some wind-break structure for the back deck is a good one that I'll have to consider for next year. Hopefully I'm going to get them planted today, since the consensus seems to be that I'm just looking at recoverable environmental damage, not some disease that would make it wasted effort. Thanks!...See MoreRelated Professionals
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laceyvail 6A, WVOriginal Author