Funny that you guys started to discuss this just when I am about to start this same project myself. Here are my findings. First off, if you plan of putting a counter on top of the new 3.8 cu ft FL, good luck, and have your pocket book ready. You see, the deepest "standard" counters are those for kitchens, at 25 1/8". Assuming that one leaves around 5" of clearance behind those newer FL machines for vents, air circulation, heat, etc, then you are looking at about 30"-35" of depth, depending on how flush you want the counter to come to the front of the machine. Having said that, there are 3 prices for laminate counters in the stores (like Home Depot). The counters you see in the store in stock are the cheapest, and will cost around $10 li ft. If you need to pick a finish that matches say the sink counter top in your bathroom where the machines are also located, then that is considered a custom order, even if it is a standard depth. This will easily double the price to $20 li ft. Now if you want to order a non-standard depth so that it goes from the back of the wall to the front of your new FL, then you are looking at $35-$50 li ft, depending on type of finish like rounded vs sqaure front edge, back ledge or no ledge, etc... Keep this in mind when shopping for a counter top. I would like my counter to cover the machines completely, so I might have to bite the bullet and order the more expensive counter top.... Again, I am talking about a laminate counter top, no fancy materials here.... I am from Canada, and here is what the local Home Depot quoted me in Canadian dollars for the 3 options.. 1) In-Store counter (limited finishes) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $68 CAD Custom order counter (you choose the finish) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $132 - $150 CAD 30 Csutom order counter (you choose the finish) 30-35" (non standard depth) X 6 feet = $222 CAD I believe the last option of non-standard depth only allows for a square front edge finish. If you want a rounder edge in front, like that found on your kitchen counter, the price jumps to $500 CAD, since the guy said that they have to charge for a full 4X8 sheet, and then cut the custom size from there, in order to get the rounded front edge... One other option you can do, which my brother did very nicely is lay down 2 sheets of plywood (for extra thickness), and tile the top and sides, looks really nice, but is a lot more work...

You need to do some homework. Every material has it's pros and cons, and it all comes down to what you are willing to live with. "Best" is completely subjective. Frankly, if my DH had not felt so strongly about our using a "higher end" counter top (we ended up with engineered quartz) I would have done a laminate. They are durable, warm, soft, and very inexpensive. Completely low-maintenance if you are not careless about using them. Our quartz will be fine, and looks fantastic, but we spent nearly three times what we could have spent on a high-end laminate. IKEA has some DIY laminate for incredibly little cost if you are willing to put in the effort and will buy you plenty of time to do some research on your countertop options. Here is a link that might be useful: IKEA wood and laminate countertops

Hi, I currently have an L shaped kitchen, well L counters and then the frige comes around and forms a U. I am contemplating adding a peninsula that is freestanding to make a G with the counters. The counters are raven (dark gray) ceasarstone and the cabinets painted white. The peninsula would be painted white as well. The countertop of the peninsula would butt up against the short end of the ceasarstone counter for a distance of 24". Do you think it would be weird to make the peninsula countertop honed carerra marble? (BTW, the backsplash is 3x6 carrera marble) Or should the peninsula be the same ceasarstone in raven like the rest of the counters? I know people mix island materials and it looks great, but is this pushing it too far? I don't have room for an island. :-(

My black countertop is honed black labrador. It is light black with some grey in it. I will take a close up picture of it later and post it. I can use an enhancer (?) on it and it will look darker. I was originally going to go with honed absolute black. My stone guy convinced me that it would show every fingerprint, etc, and I would be unhappy. And the black lab would look better with my marble. The honed black labrador is bullet proof and shows nothing. And it is nice to have that to do prep work with things like food coloring or citrus that I try to keep away from my marble. BUT, I do wonder what it would have looked like if I had stuck with my guns and gone with the AB. As far as the marble is concerned - mine is statuary marble (it was the only white marble that I could find locally that was at least 6ft x 8ft.. It is fairly busy so it seems to hide quite a bit. I definitely don't have any staining yet (2 months since install). But, I do have a few etching spots. I am a perfectionist....but I promised myself that if I did get marble I would just let it be loved, patina and all...so far I am doing pretty good with that. Also, my stone guy convinced me not to go with honed....he thinks that polished "ages much more gracefully" (yes, his words...and yes, he is a very odd duck). BUT again, I wonder if I should have stuck with my guns and gotten it honed. I haven't posted pictures of my finished kitchen, because I really mostly lurk here, and didn't think people would be that interested, since they didn't really know me. If you are interested in seeing the whole thing, I am happy to post pictures - before and after. As far as my overall kitchen - I do love it. It definitely is what I envisioned when I started this process. BUT (yes another BUT) I find it rather cold - not warm it all. I keep thinking it is the black and white, but then I look at other black and white kitchens here, and they seem to have some warmth. I'm not certain what it is exactly. HTH.