Well it poured in the early morning after I applied Image, but it seems to be working fine (not forecast). Hate that only now I can see where I missed but the product says don't use again within 1 year. Other than not getting a preemergent down, following the bermuda bible has my yard going nuts. I really need to raise the height of my rotary or mow more often. It's just growing too fast so I reveal too much yellow on a every 4 day schedule.

IâÂÂm not in the expert crowd here, so please take this with a grain of urea. I think itâÂÂs too late for both fertilizer and pre-m. You want to get pre-m down prior to weeds coming in, so around September. Once that is down, you can add more if you like for longer protection 8 weeks-ish later if you like. Then, like the Bermuda Bible says, put something like Dimension down when the Forsythia blooms, in late Feb to late March depending on temps (soil temps around 50F). As far as fertilizer, you donâÂÂt want to push your Bermuda too much when it should be going dormant. That will lead to winter kill and wasted money. My nickelâÂÂs worth of free advice is to wait until the early spring. If you are still itching to put something down, grains or Milorganite are good no matter what the calendar says . . .

It is unfortunate that misinformation continues to be repeated about glyphosate. Denmark has not banned glyphosate, nor have "many European countries". Denmark at one point thought that some of the monitoring they were doing showed that glyphosate could move into agricultural field drainage water in autumn but once they looked at their data and related it to the methodology they used, they enacted no ban whatsoever. As the Danish Environmental Protection Agency specifically stated: http://www.egeis.org/home/main/Evaluation-GlyphosateDEPA.PDF "Against this background, the Danish Environmental Protection Agency believes that no unacceptable risk of pollution of the groundwater is associated with the currently approved agricultural use of glyphosate. The Agency thus does not consider that the updated state of our knowledge provides any technical grounds for the imposition of restrictions on the autumn application of glyphosate." Used properly, glyphosate will not pollute drinking water nor will it have adverse effects on humans. Once applied, it binds tightly to soil particles and is not herbicidally active. If it is applied to hard surfaces such as sidewalks it can move offsite of course. It can also move if there is active soil erosion carrying soil off site. It is of very low toxicity, and breaks down completely into natural constituents over time. It is of equal or lower toxicity than most household products such as detergent, soaps, shampoos, cleaners etc. and far less toxic than some of the "alternatives" often discussed such as bleach, kerosene, high strength vinegars and so on. There is so much misinformation being repeated on the web that it is difficult to get reliable information. This link provides an published overview of the available literature. Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology Volume 31, Issue 2, April 2000, Pages 117-165 Safety Evaluation and Risk Assessment of the Herbicide Roundup and Its Active Ingredient, Glyphosate, for Humans http://cat.inist.fr/?aModele=afficheN&cpsidt=1401479

I should be more detailed about the cut height progression... If you try to work down to 1 inch this year, you're a bit late & you'll have to use the 2 steps back, 1 step forward method, which is not as easy as it sounds, especially while in a weed fight. It'll be easier next year & you won't have to live with cheetah print lawn. To do so next spring, you'll want to do a proper scalping as soon as temps are done freezing for the year to remove this year's lawn. That's your mowers lowest setting, probably about an inch for most rotary machines. You'll be at that setting for 1 week, and you should be able to see dirt below without trying during this time. This forces the stolons to start making green leaves at dirt level. Fertilize after scalping, then bump up to the second notch for the next mowing to get back your "green top" & keep it there until the cheetah print look starts to show (3 or 4 weeks). When the stems begin to show through & the cheetah effect starts, iron will help to delay this by a week or so if you have a special occasion. One more notch will always produce more green on top, but it's a balancing act to avoid 3 inch "leggy" Bermuda--If you let it get too high too early, you'll be stuck there for the season. You're already stuck for this season in my opinion, taking off too much green right now will reduce photosynthesis, which won't help your cause. Scalping can be done anytime in the growing season once healthy, to reset the height, but it's a big job so I only do it once at the beginning of the season. Basically the Bermuda grows like miniature trees. There's the roots, then a crown area of rhizomes & stolons at dirt level, then the brown stem which is the area you control via cut height, then a green top on each stem. Get it right & all your little trees are the same height at the same time & you get a nice consistent green lawn. Now my fingers hurt!