I wil have to look up 'cansolidators', never heard of them. But, then again, that is why I post queries here, to get enlightened. I don't like my 16 inch deep wire shelves, currently things are always getting forgotten in the back. I hope that by doing a 12 inch shelf, things will be front and center. Plus, with just 12 inch shelves along the back wall, I will have 24 inches of floor space remaining. Could I have a stack of pull out shelves along the right side of the pantry? I envision the shelves being that is 24 inches deep and 20 inches wide, so I could pull them towards me when I am in the front of the pantry? Like either of these: [Contemporary Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2103) by Orange County Interior Designer Michael Fullen Design Group [Contemporary Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2103) by Boston Closets And Organization Marie Newton, Closets Redefined I do like the idea of incorporating lazy susans into the far right corner, since it goes back pretty deep, too. Not sure if both are possible, though. Thoughts?

I have two old kitchen sinks already here. One cast iron, and one enameled steel, both with double drainboards and both sitting in the pole barn. One rusted to the metal cabinet it was sitting on. Both free along with an olive green range with an oven on top. It was pretty awesome, but the top oven didn't work. I tried to find replacement parts, but there were none to be found. I could easily put either sink in there. I had kind of forgotten about them since I knew I wasn't using them in the new kitchen. Definitely not afraid of lead. I grew up with a lot of cast iron sinks through the years without known damage. I don't remember licking the sink though. Laughable-when we can, we butcher outside, at least the messiest parts. But if I can cut up something at 60 degrees instead of 20 degrees, I'm going inside. We butcher together or by ourselves. If we both aren't doing something else, we try to do it together and get it done faster, but normally one of us is doing something else, and one gets stuck by themselves. I could probably move some jars to the basement, but not many. The basement is tiny and mostly filled with hot water heater, jet pump for the well, and a water softener. There is some space under the steps that I could utilize though. I just have to hope and pray for dry weather. If it rains a bunch, we get an indoor pool. It's pretty horrific. Just bare studs in there now, so all of the space in between studs is open. South and east walls are exterior. The basement wall could be used too. I also like the idea of moveable carts. I need to think this all over. Lots of things to think about. Stacylh- I do have a foodsaver that I love. And I think your upright is just a hair bigger than our freezer now, so it might be an option. I'll have to do some checking. Localeater- Before we moved out here, we processed deer at my in-laws on a chest freezer that my FIL kept all of the taxidermy stuff in. And I definitely don't want to spend $125 on something that won't work. If the electric coil burners are cheap, I might get one just to have handy. I don't find it too inconvenient to find things in the chest freezer, but I rearrange and organize it several times a year so like items stay together, and to make sure that all of the less appealing cuts from the prior year have been used up. williamsem- it's never too late to take up a new hobby :) Is it bad that I would put cosmetically damaged appliances in my new kitchen? I have kids and I'm not overly careful, they are all bound to be scratched or dented at some point. Just less heartbreaking when they come pre-loved. And I'm open to any and all ideas. Obviously design is flexible, and I'm not too picky. Just trying to get the best use of the space possible.

Your closet is only 69" tall? You want heavy thing (like your liquid gallons) near the floor, and light items (paper towels, cereal) up high. Stuff used the most should be at waist level, easiest to reach. Will there be adjustable shelves between these fixed shelves? What do you have that's 24" tall? Ideally, you want the shelves just a little higher than the things stored on them, so you maximize storage space without having to stack things like boxes and cans. 16" depth is great for large things, and 12" is good for smaller things. You don't want things to get hidden in the back. It sounds like you have already thought about what you want to keep in the pantry; the more detailed you can be about what will go where, the better your design will be. If possible, make your shelves adjustable, in case your actual arrangement isn't as planned, or your needs change in the future.

Stairs are always tricky. As soon as you touch them (change one surface to another) you must update them to match 'code'. So removing carpet to lay LVP (wood is going to be a code nightmare...just so you know) and then covering with carpet sounds a bit odd. And you still need to get it up to code. BUT...if you replace 'like with like' (carpet to carpet) the stairs can be left as-is. Ahhhh....see how that works? Right. Personally I would go shopping for carpet tiles and then match the stair carpet to the carpet tiles that also work with the vinyl on the lower level. Tying this all together will be the 'design' aspect of this job. And yes, LVP on stairs is slick...super duper slick. Finished wood (engineered or otherwise) is also slick. Super slick...which means a stair runner is needed anyway. You might as well skip the 'finish the treads' part of it and move straight to 'carpet the treads'. And just to be clear, stairs are some of the most EXPENSIVE ITEMS to refresh in the building industry. They can be thousands and thousands and thousands of dollars to refresh. If you do anything other than exchange carpet for carpet you are going to get in to the upper range of expensive. Photos of the space would certainly help.