Yes, the window was there before and has not been changed. I would love to tile around the window in lieu of wood trim, but with glass tiles I think that will not work dimension-wise w/o cutting the glass. From everything I've heard about glass tiles, cutting them is a sure road to frustration if you want/need a clean edge. I guess we can put the cut side up against the cabinet and put some quarter-round on top to cover the cut edge? Is it typical to put small molding around the sides of the cabinet box?

Although you didn't ask for this advice, I have to second Jenny "with no taste's" comments. I think the wall color detracts from the clean contrasts in your slipcovers. The picture posted by Jenny seems to have a cream wall behind a blue/white chair, but it doesn't look like the wall was painted with that chair in mind. If this were my room I'd paint the walls white. The obvious accent color is yellow but there is no reason you couldn't choose something out of one of the prints instead. I think your picture mats are neutral and would probably look fine with any new wall color. But you certainly want to know which wall color you are using before doing anything with the mirror or lamps. I think I might like the two lamps with the white shades, but I can't see them because they are too low. The round table is too low but since the legs are not really visible, can you put something under them to bring the table up a few inches? Once you are committed to your table heights, you can raise and lower your current lamps using stacks of books, till you see what height lamp works best. Of the new lamps you are considering, I'd definitely stick with the clear glass. The clear glass will add to the airy, clean, crisp look and it will help reflect light.

Hi mermanmike: That would look great, however, I am thinking it best to restrict the scope of walnut countertops, as I am guessing they would patina rather more than stone, especially around the sinks. Thank you for the thought though--it would be a great solution from a design standpoint, just not sure I am ready to embrace that much square footage of wood countertops.

First, your second guess is correct: plant the rose outside the supports. Planting inside seems logical, but it creates problems with pruning and maintenance in the long run (ask me how I know!). If the plant ever needs to be moved, it can be unwrapped more easily if it's not growing inside/around/over/and through, and you won't have to move the tree guard to dig the rose, lol. Also it's just easier to prune a rose that covers something, rather than growing though something. Planting outside the structure also allows more air circulation in the middle of the plant, helping to keep down disease. Secondly, if you choose hardy roses, then it doesn't really matter if they are on multiflora stock, so your choice of sources increases dramatically. This pertains mostly to climbers, but if the rose is not cane-hardy for you, the rootstock won't make much difference. If the top dies down every year it will just never be able to make enough growth in a season to cover your tree guards. Also, many once blooming climbers bloom on last year's wood, and would never bloom if they lose their canes every winter. Repeat blooming climbers would be able to produce roses every year on new growth, but never on the long canes you hope for to cover your supports. However, if the rose is cane hardy for you, it will also be root hardy. So, no need for multiflora rootstock; own-root would be fine, and to me, preferable, just be sure to choose roses that will be cane hardy for you. Again, this only pertains to climbers in cold climates. John