It struck me that milk paint very much resembles whitewash with pigments added. Perhaps milk paint is the new name for what used to be known as whitewash? Whitewash is easily and inexpensively made from slaked (builder's) lime. I made my own and painted our chicken coop inside with it. Without pigments added, it has a beautiful, very matte, white color. Whitewash has excellent qualities since it breathes, kills microbes, molds, flees, mites and other destructive insects which tend to hide in crevices whereever farm animals are housed. Whitewash has been used for hundreds of years by farmers and others to paint the interior and exterior of buildings that housed people and/or animals. It was especially valued for its hygienic properties around farm animals, and for its many other properties as an easily accessible, inexpensive paint for painting your bathroom or the exterior of your house. Sometimes pigments were added resulting in beautiful colors on houses. And whitewash has that beautiful texture, very, very matte, also when pigments are added. Come to think of it, I think they used to paint the interior of churches with whitewash - or as it apparently now is known - milk paint. Save money by making your own.......

Been there, done that...lint is such a HUGE annoyance to my life. We're in a 2nd floor condo where the dryer vent ducting goes to the roof through the attic over 20 feet and several elbows. My husband bought the condo years before we met, and the ducting was clogged after several years. At the time, he decided to disconnect the vent from the duct. The resulting moisture did some damage to the cabinetry (swelling of the particle board, even under layers of oil-based paint). Soon after we married, he decided we needed to fix the problem correctly. He went up into the attic and disassembled the ducting, brought it outside, and blew it out with his air compressor. I pushed some cleaning tool through it as well. We can't be doing this regularly! I mean preferably, never again! So, I had him put a filter -- a gallon paint strainer -- over the dryer vent where it connects to the machine. This clogs every month or so, we pull the machine out, disconnect the vent, clean the strainer, and put it back. This is still an annoying chore, but not the nightmare of dealing with the whole duct run. My husband had a cool idea, that what we need to do is sew a new, longer strainer that tapers to a skinny point, so that even when it clogs at the point, there can still be air flowing past the clogged strainer, and we should be able to go longer between cleanings. We got a new dryer last summer, and pulled the ducting out of the attic to clean it -- but it was already clean as a whistle. So, our secondary filter system has kept the duct run clean for 9 years. I found you can buy secondary lint traps with a door that opens to clean them out, but we don't have room to install the box in our laundry room, and I don't think it would work any better or be easier to clean than our homemade filter. When I redo the floor, I plan to put magic slider thingies under the dryer feet to make it easier to move in and out, plus I won't want to gouge my new floor. I have researched other solutions. People claim that solid metal vent will maintain better airflow than pleated, but I think it will still clog because we need 2 90-degree elbows to get it connected to the duct in the wall. And if it clogs, how do we pull out the machine with a non-stretching vent? If we could move the duct in the wall to match the dryer vent outlet, that would eliminate 2 elbows and would probably help... I also found you can install a secondary fan in the ducting near the exit, increasing the airspeed in long ducts so the lint won't clog. They cost $150-200, but if I never had to clean out the duct run or pull out the dryer to clean my makeshift secondary lint trap ever again, it would be well worth it. I also think that our ducting is leaky somewhere, because rooms on the other side of the wall (our master bath) get crusted with lint all the time. Finding and sealing those leaks would probably improve airspeed some, plus save me tons of work cleaning the lint all the time. I think the additional fan is the way to go. In 2 other areas where we replaced an ineffective low-cfm cheap fan with a high-cfm good one, like the hood over our cooktop, it made an amazing difference, night and day. Here is a link that might be useful: example of dryer duct fan

Thanks to everyone who took the time to try and go where a transposed letter would not let them...and for finding the error of my ways. I didn't stop to think that one must have a blog to follow a blog...thanks Luvs for the heads up on that one... so any one that is interested in the contest, let me know, I will put your name in the hat too. I am always pleasantly amazed at how thoughtful and helpful everyone here is. Thanks gals.

I have the Ivoire formula for Emerald matte on the can and it is correct according to the official recipe for Ivoire paint in a gallon (double checked). The base paint is correct too. But the gallon colour does not even resemble the paint chip or the Color-to-Go. When I discuss the mismatch gallon, I'm directly comparing the paint they gave me spread on the paint chip - and the gallon Ivore was not even close to the same colour as the paint chip. Quite truthfully, it is like a lighter version of Believable Buff - I'd accept it as a match for Believable Buff before I'd accept it as a match for Ivoire!! In terms of how the real Ivoire looks on my walls (the paint chip/Colour-To-Go version, not the mismatched gallon paint), I have painted Ivoire on a lot of test walls, so I have a good feel for how it appears in my house - yellow with apricot undertones and I absolutely love it. This faulty Ivoire looks like a kind of muddy/murky beige-yellow - not the same colour at all. I was flabbergasted when the gallon of Ivoire looked like an entirely different dingy beige colour - even the guy who mixed it thought it did not seem correct but he wanted me to take it home and see how it looked at home in the lighting it would be in.