i just have one set of lights and two switches so it's convenient for me to turn on from the side i'm working. I went with Inspired LED and they have LED tape lights and lots of connectors. For example I have a 36 inch hood and the connector goes above the hood into the cabinet above and connects the lights on either side so no need for a separate zone. They're pretty good about giving you a design based on your kitchen drawing. Edited to say that I have a small U shaped kitchen. Obviously if you have a larger kitchen with a specific break in cabinets you'd need more than one zone but for a continuous space I would stick to one set of lights and maybe two switches if you don't want to walk to one side to turn them on.

If anyone is interested, contrary to my own plan I wound up installing the UC panels under the front of the cabinets instead of the back. I did this everywhere except the PT holder. There, I mounted one just behind it, not all the way to the rear. The choice for me was simple: I could see the panels in the back and not in the front. The PT holder hides the panel to an acceptable degree, and there is no noticeable inconsistency between the PT panel and the next one in front thanks to excellent diffusion. The glare/reflection I worried about is not a factor and I've got a dual wireless dimmer mounted to the wall. Very happy with the results! Thanks again to everyone for your help. Btw, I used "Independence" dimmers and "Designer" panels both by InspiredLED. Peter did a good job, quickly providing plans and suggestions and also fixing a hiccup when a piece arrived defective.

I assume the wire you are running is in wall rated. Is the ceiling already drywalled? Can you access the ceiling joists from above (like from the attic)? As long as you can access the joists, it is no problem drilling and running a wire through joists. Even if you don't have direct access you can use a flexible drill bit to fish through joists as long as the run isn't too long and you know where any plumbing and ducts are. Here's an example of a flex bit. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-3-8-in-x-72-in-Flex-Auger-Bit-53717/203871767 and a tutorial https://www.familyhandyman.com/electrical/wiring/fishing-electrical-wire-through-walls/ and check the suggestion of running conduit through base cabinets. Fishing wire through the joists is something I avoid (just me and my confidence/skill level) but it is fine to do, even if it can be challenging. If I have access to the joists, then no problem (just get in the attic and do it). It may be a longer run, but is it physically possible to run wire through wall all the way to the desired switch?

The type of lighting that is typically on its own switch includes pendant lights and over sink lights. This allows for more control over the lighting in specific areas of the kitchen. In terms of combining lights, you can consider combining the under cabinet lighting with the pot lights to provide overall ambient lighting in the kitchen. The pendant lights over the seated counter can be combined with the over sink light to create a focused task lighting area for food preparation or other activities at the counter. For the room size of 10'x16', having 6 pot lights should provide adequate lighting coverage. For outlet locations, it is recommended to have outlets installed along the countertops for convenient use of small appliances. Additionally, consider adding outlets near the seated counter for charging devices or using small appliances while seated. Be sure to follow local electrical codes and regulations when determining outlet locations.