Here is how IRC defines ceiling heights for bathrooms in my area: "2. Bathrooms shall have a minimum ceiling height of 6 feet 8 inches (2032 mm) at the center of the front clearance area for fixtures as shown in Figure R307.1. The ceiling height above fixtures shall be such that the fixture is capable of being used for its intended purpose. " So the way the code is interpreted in my area, the ceiling height above the entire footprint of fixture doesn't necessarily have to be 6'8". This allows toilets, for example, to be tucked against a wall with a sloped ceiling. It's essentially the area where you stand (the front clearance area) to use the fixture that has to hit the 6'8" target height. Now, to define "the center of the front clearance area": Two of the areas I work in simply go by the following drawing. This drawing is the basic one included in IRC: One other town very specifically defines the "center of the front clearance area" as needing a 6'8" height specifically at a point 10.5" in front of the fixture along the centerline of the fixture. That is smack dab in the middle of the 21" clear space shown in the drawing. And then there is the last sentence in the paragraph, what I consider to be the "common sense" provision: "The ceiling height above fixtures shall be such that the fixture is capable of being used for its intended purpose." Essentially, follow code and follow common sense. If you're close to the minimum clearances in IRC, assuming IRC applies to you, then visit your code office with your drawings for an interpretation. Your sloped ceiling seems to come in to play with the toilet and with one of the sinks. The way code is interpreted in my area, if you have a 6'8" ceiling height along the centerlines of those two fixtures, from the front edges of those fixtures to a point extending out a minimum of 21" in front of the fixtures, you'd be good to go. The "common sense" provision, the idea that "the ceiling height above fixtures shall be such that the fixture is capable of being used for its intended purpose", that would be used by my inspectors with regards to your ceiling sloping up from the wall to the side of the fixtures instead of what is usually more common, the ceiling sloping up from the wall behind the fixture. You wrote that you hit the 6'8" height just a few inches from the wall. In that case, you should have no issues whatsoever. But again, when in doubt, get an interpretation ahead of time. I think your layout makes sense. The door and the windows pretty much restrict your shower footprint to being in the corner where you have it. You could change the size of the shower a bit, but that would impinge on the openness of the bath. The one area of caution would be the location and swing of the entry door and its relationship to the sink just inside the door. An inspector could nix that. Primarily because if that sink was a vanity with drawers, an open drawer would prohibit the bathroom door from being opened into the bathroom. Even if it was a pedestal sink with no drawers, it could be prohibited because of the possibility of the pedestal being swapped out for a drawered vanity, or simply because the door swing violates the clear space in front of the sink. In that case, as has been mentioned, you'd have to change the swing of the door or make it a pocket door.

thanks to all who have posted so far, especially Eric. We can probably save/budget down the road for a kitchen redo, or do part of it ourselves. Additions would be a little harder for us except finish work (floors, tile, etc. Can do drywall even but would need to find time to do it). What that kitchen has is a U shaped layout, not too bad except there are overhanging cabinets between a small dining/family space and the kitchen. It's a counter/pass through kind of setup where someone can sit at stools and talk with the person in the kitchen....except the cabinets hang down so the person in the kitchen has to look under them. We would likely tear those out and relocate the stovetop to the perimeter wall and make that pass through an island. Then that entire space could become kitchen/dining. It is possible we could still move out a wall on that (kitchen) side of the house down the road too, we are in Hawaii so all the construction costs are much, much higher than mainland. So jealous of all the posters here who can put on a large extension for less than 50K. Plan A or Plan B will cost us about the same. We don't plan to sell and move anytime soon, but should we need to we're leaning toward sq. footage instead of just extending current bath and upgrading the kitchen. Our neighborhood is about 20 years old so people are beginning to redo those rooms as the fixtures and appliances are ageing. We redid all the appliances about three years ago with stainless finishes, new faucet/sink, and redid the countertop Corian, so the kitchen is livable - just need to clear out some clutter and make smarter usage on available storage space. We could paint or restain the cabinet doors to freshen it up. A few neighbors are creating the "big bang" kitchen now but I'm not certain a 70K upgrade will improve the value that much as a new neighborhood is planned about 5 miles away within the next couple of years. Would we love to live in a "WOW" kitchen, of course. But as with most people we have to make a decision on where it is best to spend the money for now. We could feasibly also add on a 2nd story in future years, but we prefer the single story and if we age-in-place as planned, the new bath will include wide accesses and no-curb shower.

Don't assume anything. You could put the shower/bath in the center of the room and run pipes in the floor or ceiling. Anything is possible if you have enough money and someone with an enterprising attitude.

I got the cabinets through Home Depot (20% off) they are not higher end but they have held up extremely well and we’ve been happy with them. I don’t remember the brand, but the color is cognac on maple. They’re standard kitchen cabinets. We got 2 regular drawer banks, 1 extra wide drawer bank, 2 sink cabinets and the closet you can see in the picture for about 1800 w/the discount. We bumped the shower wall 6 inches into the bedroom to make the shower bigger, pulled the cabinets out from the wall a couple of inches to provide more counter top. And curved the edge the counter for interest. Just for fun, this is what we had to start with. The tub was rusted and there were two doors, 1 from the hall & 1 from the master bedroom, we closed up the hall door. I think we got our moneys worth. LOL As for the labor, I found my Contractor through a plumber I had hired to put in a kitchen faucet. I asked if he had someone good he could refer and he referred Matt to me. Matt had his own company but just him and his guys. All of his work was by word of mouth, he didn’t advertise or push for business, he didn’t need to. I think I got fair pricing from him because he didn’t have the overhead a lot of the larger companies might have. He wasn’t the least expensive and he wasn’t the most expensive. Finding someone who was willing to work on our schedule and not having to have it done ASAP is what really helped me to be able to keep our costs at a minium for both labor and materials.