I like your pendant choice! I think the area around the window wouldn't feel so empty if you had similar breathing room to the left of the range. What about removing the center tall cabinet and putting one of the cabinets you took down from next to the window in its place (looks like they are the same size as the two smaller ones next to the fridge anyway)? Shift them all to the left and line up the top with the top of the fridge. Are you opposed to having backsplash below the range only? Perhaps under the window frame too if the sink area is a concern. If the tile you're thinking of is the wall color, I think that would look nice.

Taj Mahal. one on the left why? no particular reason..makes my heart beat faster, that's all)) Then I love everything that reads beige/green/gray.. I also love the combo with floors. I love browns plus grays..a lot, a lot. Just beautiful. Not every shade of course but these two were born for each other. so it's my first reaction upon seeing both samples (they are both pretty)

It is doable project to diy if you are properly informed. You seem to have an idea already. You are not cutting the joist...NO ONE should be cutting joist w/o first consulting a structural engineer...I think most curbless applications on upstairs bathrooms end up building up the subfloor (you already have) to the whole bathroom to accommodate the pan as well as deflection. Which is why you need to be well informed and follow the guidelines that were mentioned here by celadon or JuneKnow (think is the same person) hence why I mentioned John bridge and terry love. Those are forums dedicated to plumbing and tiling. There is a deflection calculator that work if you have regular joist. If your joist are engendered (I-joist) the Schluter also provides info on how to build up the floor. 720 deflection is for natural stone. 360 is ok for ceramic tile. What that means is the needed material on top of the joist to minimize movement. As far as making sure sure the subfloor for the shower pan is flat is so that the actual Schluter pan can do its job of sloping the water you are well informed. I followed the Schluter handbook and talked to the rep and so far it’s going great. You have to be at the ready when you post here I noticed. Seems like if you say DIY two or three common posters on this forum will right away chastised you for doing so assuming that bc it’s a diyer that they don’t know or are not aware of how to do things. Some of the recent post have been asking for help after their contractor did a horrible job tiling, lippage grout lines bigger than other, tile trim off or not centered, so I say better do it myself that have to deal with those issues. Here is a pick of my current shower. To clarify first and foremost, otherwise said ppl would just start saying how wrong you are and how it will fail!: buit up to 720 deflection for natural stone. Framed around I joist and supported between joist under shower pan. Checked plumbing on drain to keep the slope necessary after the p trap. Ditra uncoupling membrane on whole bathroom. Kerdi band around all seams close to the wet areas. Marble is honed. Will be sealed and then anti slip sealer added as well. Epoxy or spektralock1 grout will be used to further keep things waterproofed. Have already ran shower head and handheld and water slopes right to drain. Best of luck!

I'm a fan of spray foam insulation. I had flash-and-batt insulation in the 2 x 4 walls of my last home and have insulated a couple that way for clients. The spray foam provides good air sealing and the batts achieve the required insulation R-value at lower cost than filling the entire stud cavities with spray foam. Spray foam insulation is supply constrained at the moment and you'll probably pay a premium price for it. Air sealing will help keep allergans and pollutants from entering your home provided you implement a ventilation strategy to keep from de-pressurizing the home. You will also, as one poster already noted, need a mechanical fresh air ventilation system--either an HRV or ERV depending on your climate zone. If you have a crawl space or basement, I recommend you also insulate the rim joist with spray foam and make it a conditioned space.