The exposed control panels I find a little easier to use, and they sometimes give info about where the dishwasher is in the cycle (useful if you want to know if it's almost done, or if you want to add a forgotten item early in the wash cycle). OTOH, the cabinet door panels vary in size from one manufacturer to another, and if *this* dishwasher fails you may be limited in what you can replace it with if you want to keep the cabinet panel. Sometime the exposed control panels are 6" tall (matching most U.S. cabinet drawers), others just 4" or other sizes. Miele makes some filler panels to adapt cabinet panels that are too short, but short of sawing off part of it (often not a feasible option) there's nothing that can be done if your new DW has a larger exposed control panel than your old one. Some fully-integrated DWs do have a light or other indicator to show it's on, either pointing downward at the floor, or upward making the small gap above the DW and below the countertop glow. Using a fully-integrated DW also means using your own cabinet pulls. You'll need a fairly large, sturdy, easy to grasp one for your dishwasher. If all your other cabinets have small round knobs, you'll either ruin the intended hiddenness with a big handle on the DW or have to grasp and pull hard on a small knob or handle (which I wouldn't recommend - it may break off over time). Integrated DWs with exposed control panels have the manufacturer's usual door latch which usually is easy to use. Obviously there's an aesthetic difference between the two. Most (all?) of us have exposed ovens, so I don't really see the point of hiding the dishwasher unless it really blows the symmetry or something. The low height of the open door has nothing to do with whether it's standard/integrated/semi-integrated, but rather is a result of the move to "tall tub" dishwashers with doors that open all the way down to the toekick, rather than 3/4 of the way down with a stationary access panel between the door and the toekick. The door on those old dishwashers didn't open as low as on the new ones, since the pivot point and thus the entire open door was 6 to 8 inches higher. Nowadays, only low-end dishwashers still use that design, which substantially reduces capacity. Whatever happened to top-load dishwashers? They were really easy to close, although harder to load. The drawer-type dishwashers are perhaps easiest to use, and the Fisher & Paykel drawers are shallow enough so the fully-integrated DW won't stick out in front - and unlike other brands, they have a few controls on a small plate that mounts near the top corner of the cabinet panel, available in different colors. I think GE/Monogram had a fully-integrated dishwasher that had a small panel that fit in a rectangular hole cut near the top of the full cabinet panel, not sure if they (or anyone else) still offers this.

Hi John, It would help a lot if we knew what purpose the DLI knowledge is serving, bc we can only really answer with other units and descriptions. -For one, try matching the plant you want to grow with one on that Purdue list that has the same requirements for light and temperature at least. If they have similar needs across the board, with acidity and other needs too preferably, it's safe to move forward with the list-plant DLI as your DLI for the plant you want to grow, affording yourself the ability to adjust slightlt from there. Better to add shade you can remove than to plant in shade with no way to add more sun. -I would add that Direct sun means direct, if a plant needs full sun even a full day of bright indirect light won't do. Def make sure your *temperatures* and light are both correct, this will help you narrow down acceptable spots. *Again, temp is a factor. -Also, the difference between afternoon and morning is important. Afternoon sun is like 1.5 to 2x the 'value', at least, in terms of heat and light "saturation* coinciding. It's rough, but a fair number for gardening purposes, if that helps. So 3-4 hrs afternoon or 6 hrs morning is okay for a partial shade plant.... >>In the desert that number is way higher, I would say 3-4x (at least) as much in the afternoon (from 8am to 6pm in the summer) but most zones it's a good estimate to say afternoon sun is <= 2x morning sun. In super foggy and cloudy places, the number is lower. Sensitive plants should get morning sun (like loose lettuce)<< .... These numbers are not DLI related, but rough gardening metrics. -In terms of finding DLI, do your own experiment! :) Put the plant where gardening advice, without the math, says to do so, make sure it gets everything it needs by garden wisdom, then measure the light throughout the day and see what you get. If it's getting the right number of direct sun hours, temp, soil needs, the plant will grow well and your readings will be worth tracking for future use. -Also, look into books on growing cannabis, there's a lot more fine tuned science in that kind of stuff, especially about lumens. ... I also like math and biology, but gardening, especially sun measuring, is more gestalt than the fine quantification you're trying to do. PH, EC/PPM, these are quantified, But water is done based on inches above soil and feeling moisture with the hand, light is measured in hours of direct* sun. These techniques and knowledge have developed over millennia, well before moles were defined. It's all pretty flexible, and intuitive, for most plants. I'm sure you've heard this. One season of gardening allowing yourself to fail and try again will help a lot. The first is the hardest! Try finding a friend or mentor to help with their intution and remember your senses and their advice along the way. As a metric, Minimum 6-8+ hours for full sun. Part sun/part shade is 4-6hrs, with most preferring long morning to a short afternoon. Shade is 4 or less (some say 3). However, some plants need No direct sun, make sure they get lots of indirect light though (such as many carnivorous), again read up on them to see how much light they need. Most plants are adaptable to a (limited) range of conditions, so the specific DLI isn't necessary. ---

OT for ILoveRed: Actually, I have an Ideabook with renders In Progress you can look at Here. Cabinetry style is just a fast mock-up, not what we'll use. We have made some changes I've not udpated in the Ideabook. Our kitchen was U shaped, and now it will be an open plan. We moved one wall back 3 feet, doing away with formal dining in favor of a small TV Room/Man Cave where we'll have a mini fridge, snack cab's, and coffee station for DH. Overhead view is different in that the island is a wee bit larger to accommodate added onion/potato/bread bins. We aren't going with side drawers in the corner but rather a super susan for more storage space. The DW will be a double drawer Fisher Paykel (also with panel fronts) since we wish to run 1/2 loads nightly (wash fewer dishes/pots/pans! LOL!). The inset above the range (outdated for some, but useful to me) will be wider, and not arched. Tile goes all the way to ceiling at the 'cabineted' vent. Vent cabinetry look still in progress, but it won't be stainless steel as that would clash with our home's style and is not our aesthetic. The fridge is a 'built in' 48" sub zero side by side (needed something large) that will be flush mounted to be integrated... 27" deep lower cabs allow our cabinet maker to do that. Medium tone painted peripheral cabinetry, stained island, pantry will be stained also. Large herb cabinet on one side of the pantry cabinet (I grow/dry herbs, make a ton of my own seasonings also). Pantry has a tall drawer at bottom for heavy tall items. Will have ROTS for every shelf in pantry. 30" cleanup sink away from my prep island which will have a 24" sink to both prep and wash. Induction slide in (didn't want wall ovens, not enough room and need only one. Our style is what I call a mutt mixture of Traditional, Old World, and French (we are lightening up the Old World and French as it was getting too dark and heavy). Paneled is not a popular look for some, but as it's open concept now, I wanted more of a cabinetry look and it's popular where we are located. The passthrough 'window' is to allow more light. The transom above the pocket door and the passthrough window also glass, as well as the pocket door itself for natural light. Pocket door and windowed passthrough so I don't have to hear DH's sports/car races while I cook! The most important aspects to me are flow, ease as we grow older, and usefulness. Style comes after. The Layout was designed by buehl - she is amazing! Further layout help and advice from cpartist, also amazing. Plugmolds under all cabinets, one outlet in wall in one corner for toaster/steam oven. Under cabinet lighting, pucks in seeded glass uppers I think (uppers used for storage/display). Plugmolds on 2 sides of island. Toe Kick drawer on one side of island (where we won't have a rug). The wine fridge at 24" W is too big for our needs, but wanted to go with a standard size in case we need to replace it. MW also replaceable, located in a hidden cabinet with flip up/push in door. Are using a pot filler, deck mounted, for sous vide, pastas, etc. Not a feature many would use, but one I'll use daily. Glass passthrough window needs to be tempered glass (cleanup sink is offset, we don't mind). Adding a panel (in closet) behind fridge wall so we can have fast access to water shut off. Extras not seen will be a small folding ladder hanging on the cleanup sink cab door to pull out and reach storage cabs. Under ca water filter at cleanup sink. Compost bin in prep sink cabinet. Knife holder in drawer at cutting block. Back on topic: Since you are inquiring about butcher blocks, we'll use either Boos or Armani Fine Woodworking, custom size. End grain. Both highly rated here on GW (and Armani has a 'how to' for installing but still be removable). I use both end and edge cutting boards and far prefer end grain on my knives. If you do an integrated cutting board, keep in mind not to let it be too tall as that will hinder natural chopping, cutting height. : ) I'm 5'5" and ours will be 1" above countertop (leathered so it won't glare in lights, won't show accidents as easily as polished).

LEDs are smaller than an incandescent capsule, and produce less waste heat. I can see an argument for a dedicated LED fixture where the manufacturer is styling the fixture to take advantage of that greater flexibility. However, most of the integrated LED fixtures I see in stores are at the lower end. They look about the same as their incandescent counterparts. Like you, I don't see the benefit in those, and would rather be able to easily replace the "guts" without having to discard the entire fixture when a component fails. So when I have to change a fixture, I usually get a garden variety incandescent fixture, and put in a retrofit LED bulb. One exception is dedicated LED disc lights. I'm not a fan of recessed cans at all. However, despite their disposable nature and generally so-so efficacy, I've used a few disc lights in rooms with very low ceilings.