You have a very good floor plus it is ~40% harder than oak. The floor you have is a sliced engineered, a superior method of manufacture. I imagine your Dad drug the mattress on edge with the heavy metal frame compressing the wood or if the box springs, a staple, nail or two causing the damage. The best cure we use is to replace the boards damaged. You could try using epoxy to fill the scratches and finish with matching sheen professional products but that is very difficult even for the pros.

I had tile in my last home and moved to a home with carpet everywhere but the kitchen (yes, even the bathrooms had carpet (yuk)). After 20 years my joints could not withstand the impact of living on tile floors. Choices were to replace the carpet with Carpet - It is soft and quiet. It gets dirty and is hard to get clean. Muddy paws from an active puppy while delandscaping the yard was a nightmare. Hardwood - much more expensive - harder than tile or LVT to maintain, would require purchase of area carpets to protect. LVT - cost efficient - low maintenance, limited lifespan (20 years ish) I'm 59 - 20 years I won't be able to see what it looks like. Can add area carpets for aesthetics, but can eliminate the trip hazards of area carpets as I age in place. Engineered hardwood seemed to have the same cons as hardwood, but cannot be refinished over and over again - thin layer of wood. I decided to replace the carpet with LVT, I am doing one room at a time as I renovate, but am very happy with my choice. I bought Downs H20 from Cloister's Flooring America. It is waterproof and is manufactured by Coretech for the CCA Family of flooring companies. Same product, different name at each company website. Different price at each store (store not company level, two different Flooring America franchises had 2 different prices). Difference from highest price to lowest price was a difference of $2.00 per sq ft - I was covering 2000 sf, so this was a substantial savings. I loved the franchise I picked - Cloister's Flooring America. Other franchises really pushed the professional install - Cloister's seems to cater to the DYI folks (Owned by a Mennonite family). For $75.00 they send one of their installers out for 2 hours to teach you how to lay the flooring and they will rent you a tool kits that has everything you need to lay your floors. I bought one box of each of two colors and could exchange the one I didn't pick when placing my full order. I also got an additional $500 off because I hadn't placed my order yet and they called because they were having an anniversary sale. I hadn't called because I had a heart attack and was in the hospital when I got the call. They gave me the $500 off and told me I could call when I was home and feeling up to ordering even though the sale was just for the week. They even helped me with the layout plan. Told me to use graph paper and tracing paper. I drew out my floor plan on graph paper and traced the outline of the flooring pattern on the tracing paper. You place the tracing paper over the floor plan and move it around until you have a placement that doesn't leave you with little 2" strips anywhere. You do have to be exacting in your measurement and drawing of the floor plan and lay out enough pieces to get exact measurements for your tracing. I didn't find this method on the internet anywhere - most have you plan from the center of the room, but this worked out really well for me.

Thanks. I'm not talking about laminate. These are called hardwood engineered flooring (like the brand Acqua that's sold in Home Depot). Are you saying that NO hardwood engineered flooring is water-resistant and scratch-proof and I should just go with a wood that has a thicker veneer (like 2mm or higher)?

The new upstairs addition is a just big dormer in the shape of a rectangle that doesn’t span the entire length of the house and comes off the back. The entire upstairs has the sloped roof walls but in the area of the addition the ceiling is at normal height. The area was an attic crawl space and never had flooring. About 2/3 of the dormer is going to be a bathroom so it will be a different room and there will be a one inch step up through the door. But 1/3 of the new area that has no flooring (about 40 sq feet) will not be partitioned off from the rest of the bedroom with a door. The contractor thought about using that area as a closet but there is a window on the dormer at that location and we didn’t want to lose the natural light. So the little space will have three walls but be open to the room. We were thinking about making it into a little seating area with two chairs and a table for reading. I thought it might look ok to have carpet there if we can’t match the old pine wood.