Hello guys. I am told my John Deere may have same issue. A friend of mine took the spark plug wires off the spark plugs, he put a screw driver in the place to see if it was getting an electrical feed, and nothing. So he thinks it's the magneto as well. I am trying learn more about all these issues, so hopefully I can fix some of it myself. So I need to ask how do you check the Time Delay Module to know if that is what is bad? Also, are either of those issues an easy fix? Or would it require a tractor shop? Thanks and have a super day!!! Thank you guys!

You could also elimate the question of the ignitor module by unhooking the wires that don't work and moving the one right hand side ignitor to the other terminals. This would answer this question for you. This is easily accessed under the front panel. Even though it worked at first and not after you ran it for a while, this might be an expansion issue and you might just need to further adjust the electrodes. My guess is that the ignitor may be fine. I too had to do some adjusting on the electrode tips to get a good spark. I found that a quarter inch of clearance worked really well. I also put a new duracell alkaline in the button, it sparks alot better. One more area of cocern may also be the position of the spark in relation to the burner tube holes. (Assuming the module is ok) What I mean is this. I found that when I was running propane, I bent my electrodes so that the spark was underneath the outlet holes on the burner tube. Since LP is heavier than air, the gas was going down and accumulating before it would ignite, making a small combustion. Consequently, when I converted to NG, I had to reverse this and make the spark above the holes. Lights immmediately now. Good luck.

Seems like I saw a post where if Neutral (white wire) and hot (black wire) were switched, this could cause the problem. To check use a voltmeter to check between the Large slot in the "FR" (female receptacle) (Neutral) and ground (the small hole NOT Slot) in "FR". It should measure 0 volts AC. The Hot (small slot) should measure about 120 Volts AC to the ground. Also make sure the Male plug on the stove is correctly wired, White wire to the wider pin on the plug, black to the narrower pin, and the ground wire on the "rounded pin" on the stove's plug. But as mentioned, there is still a "good possibility" that the spark module is defective, as it "Senses" when the burner/burners are lit. Be very careful!!!!! when measuring these voltages or get someone to do it that is "Knowledgible"!!!! Good luck with it!!! Gary

We were down to two burners on our 2006 30' BS range after continuous clicking occurred even after ignition when we used the other two. Checked the manual, called BS, got right through and spoke to Matt. We pretty quickly established that it was a bum igniter module and that I could replace it myself if I was at all handy (Im OK handy). Ordered the part (4 burner igniter module) for $85 plus $10 shipping and it came in 3 days. I unplugged power to the range and got started. Wasn't quite sure how to take the front/control panel off and I hadn't gotten specifics from Matt, but it is pretty easy once you remove the knobs and remove three screws above the knobs and two below. The angles are a little tough to get to the upper screws but be patient. Take the drip tray out to give yourself room to get the lower screws. Once the screws are out, gingerly pull the panel forward and it should come off and hang by the wires connected to the switches on either end of the panel. You'll see the igniter module in the center back behind a neatly bundled cluster of wires. I had read a post above from annalbin about modifying a 6-burner module for a 4-burner range and this operation was apparently much simpler since I had the 4-burner module (though BS kindly included instructions for the 6-burner operation). The wires all connect by plugs, so I one-by-one unplugged from the old and re-plugged into the new so as to get the sequencing right. My wires were actually numbered. No cutting or stripping of wires was involved. Once they were all plugged back in to the new module, I unmounted the old module and screwed in the new (with 3 screws easily accessible from under the front 2 burners). Carefully pushed everything back into the space behind the control panel and replaced the panel and screwed it back in. My wife helped hold the panel in place so we could line up the center screw. Plugged the range in and she fired right up on all burners with now continuous clicking. Probably took an hour. Hopefully this igniter module will last for the life of the range; IÂll be disappointed if it doesnÂt. I thought the response from BlueStar (Prizer-Painter) was actually pretty good. I hate to read negative experiences detailed here and I hope this will help anybody who has a similar problem. Good luck!