House plant or tree to transform sad ugly space
2 days ago
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- 2 days ago
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Help--Circular Driveway planting bed is ugly
Comments (28)All I can say is Wow! I am so excited to see the changes and the mock-ups. I was dying to get on the computer yesterday but I didn't get a chance. Thank you so much pls8xx and laag, those pictures are so helpful and really make it easier. A picture is truly worth a thousand words! pls8xx, the yard looks great, I think this is the best the house ever looked. Can't wait for hubby to see the pics. He was looking at the spruce's this morning and saying how well they were growing (they really are). I hope I can twist his arm to change things. I definitely like the look of the loop with the wall around it and the stone wall on the left. We were thinking of doing a stacked wall on the left of the drive. Laag, what is the change you made from the original pic? Is the drive wider on the left side of the loop to encourage people to look there, and drive there? As for the circular drive, it will stay some circular shape as it is a good thing if it is wide enough for a car to park on the side and other cars to get by- which it is. We have triplets who have their friends drop by all the time and we need a lot of parking. We have other parking but they do so much better with the loop. you would be surprised how many people (even adults)can't really drive with their cars in reverse. For some reason I like the grass border, I think it keeps things less formal looking. It does set the plantings off. While the front of my house is more formally landscaped, I don't want to make it more so. I also think that the grass border around the bed gives people some mistake room so they wouldn't hit the wall when driving. I love the look of the mortared wall, but I am not sure we can afford a something like that. Do you think we can achieve a similar look with a stacked stone wall, I think the mortared might look better? Would stacked stone even go with my style of house? I have looked around at driveways and most around here do not have circular drives as space is pricey and lots are usually small. A lot of drives have a curve but only so you can get in and out- there is no parking. I know we have to work on the circular shape and straighten out that sharp curve on the left of the loop. Do you think that a "circle" shape bed would be good or should we do a more free-form bed? (or is that a taste thing?) We have planned to use Pennsylvania blue stone (slate looking) for the pathways and want to border the beds and driveway edge with those paver things. The blue stone is something was has been used with the old houses around here so we want to try and keep with the feel of that. If only we could do it all right now! Does anyone do hardscaping? What parts have to be done first, can the jobs be staggered and done in stages? It would be so much more affordable to do it that way. Also, am I the only one who thinks the height of the house needs to be brought down and softened? Won't deciduous trees do that or am I totally off the mark? I have looked at a lot of landscaping and I have noticed that people have trees really close to their houses as foundation plantings. It looks really nice, but I thought that was a bad thing to do as the tree will have to replaced when it gets larger or it will need to be trimmed a lot. misslucinda, I laughed when I read your post. I hate to redo things so I want to do it right, it is funny that I only saw the plantings in the bed and not the real problem. Now I have so many more variables.........I am SO glad that I posted this question. Could you imagine if I had redone the bed and still hated it. Hubby would have killed me. It bugs him when I move some perennials so you can only imagine....See MoreWhat can I plant to cover this ugly 3 stories condo.
Comments (18)Yeah, ficus nitida, but keep it pruned for narrowness (not height) which will also restrain the root system, do 6' spacing. I don't see many other alternatives except moving. Cherry laurel too slow to 40'. I would say in this situation Ficus nitida is the right choice. As previous poster remarked, think about where the shade of such a screen is going to fall, and if you are completely overwhelmed with shade--is that okay? Considering that view, I'd say "yes", myself. This one is kept to 15 or 20' high so it doesn't block the uphill neighbor's view, but carefully pruned it is getting the job done of screening magnificently: This one is not as well cared for, so lacks some of the beauty, but it is also getting the job done. I think it is close to 40' tall now, in less than 10 years. Shows you that regular maintenance can make a much more attractive result. This one they just planted it and left it, and some of the trees are crooked, the bases have gone bare, it's unevenly spaced. You are going to have to think very carefully about how you are going to keep it trimmed. It's going to cost money to maintain it, but at the same time will probably help your property value considerably. I also hope your sewer line is nowhere near that area. Check. Think very carefully about your choice. It's going to be a large, large screen, and large large objects come with drawbacks as well as advantages. Good luck!...See MoreSad, Sad Tomatoes.
Comments (4)Looking on Texas A&M, it says it is "Physiological Leaf Roll", caused by drought or other environmental stress. I will have to really watch my watering practices and calculate how much water I am really giving them. Maybe I thought I was doing a good job and really wasn't. -the seedlings were at about 65ish degrees. -I forgot to mention the small fan that was blowing on them... -the peat pots were small, 2-3 inches. The roots were not coming out of the bottoms. They were so tiny! I will not use these again. They dry out to quickly. I had to water them a lot to keep them evenly watered. I will use clean plastic pots next time. -I just realized I did a silly thing. I thought I had bought a bag of Fox Farm's soil less mix, but I just looked at the bag, and it is their Ocean Forest POTTING soil. It has sphagnum moss, perlite/vermiculite (there's a difference?), humus, and a little sand, plus the ridiculous proprietary things (guano, earthworm castings, blurb-blurb-blurb) that I paid too much for. pH of 6.5. -the planter boxes are massive. Made of 4x4s four high, rebar pinning them to the earth, lined with food safe plastic, weed mat underneath (which was stupid in hindsight, what weed in their right mind is getting through 2 1/2 feet of soil?) They are 4ft by 6 ft, and one is 4 ft by 12 ft. They are probably going to be there until I'm 86 years old. My husband does things very thoroughly. :) Our yard's soil is mostly rock and granite. I'm fairly certain there is a concrete and landscape rock cemetery back there; I'm constantly hitting something. -The Pioneer mix was delivered in a big truck. It grows grass wonderfully. - The seeds I got from Jung sprouted, but never really took off. They lost their first set of leaves, got 4-5 branches with nice leaves, but they were just not as robust as I've seen them. I was afraid to set them out too early, so I think I remember setting them out the 2nd week of May sometime to harden. I let them harden till the last week of May, letting them stay out for a few hours and then setting them inside at night. I was getting married the first week in June, so they had to be out one way or another by then. The store bought plants I planted when we got back, around the 3rd week in June. Too late? - The rooting hormone I used was a liquid mix that you dilute. Now that I think about it, I don't think it was a hormone per say, "Root Stimulator" was what it was called. I used it on my transplanted annual beds, just a quick water, or with my new dormant strawberry plants, soaked in a mixture and planted. I think it was just a 4-10-3 fertilizer to give a little boost. Does it work? I honestly couldn't say yay or nay. Maybe I was so stressed out with the upcoming wedding and planning that I didn't pay enough attention to the little things. I never saw any wilting, but that doesn't mean that the seedlings weren't stressed at some point and I didn't notice. This year I will be like a mama hawk! (I feel like I'm in a Sherlock Holmes chapter with all these questions! This is awesome!)...See MoreHelp transform a very ugly hedge into a nice one!
Comments (10)There is zone 9 Florida ... and zone 9 Madagascar, etc. Where you are makes a difference is what you can grow. The title, "...Transform a hedge..." suggests that you were going to work on the existing hedge, and implies that it would be a collaborative effort with the neighbor. That not being the case, you're going to install a similar, but better looking, hedge on your own property. With height comes width (depth). Your neighbor's hedge is hanging over the property line, giving you an idea of the space a hedge requires. The idea that you're going to have a tall, narrow hedge, such as 3' or so, is impractical. Figure on a depth more like 5' or 6', The planting centerline would be half that distance from the property line. Before planting, you'd need to trim back your neighbor's hedge to the property line. (Whatever hangs over the property line belongs to you.) If you didn't, your hedge couldn't help but lean over farther into your yard as it grows, seeking light. It would be lopsided....See MoreRelated Professionals
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41 North (Zone 7a/b, NE, coastal)