Jim, You're correct to conclude timing of sprays is important. However, in a strict sense there's not a big reason to spray fungicides on peaches from bud swell to petal fall. In my area, the only two fungi that cause problems are peach scab and brown rot. It's possible for brown rot to kill blooms (known as blossom blight) but from what I've been able to discern, it's rare in home orchards. The big problem with brown rot is fruit infection which is most effectively treated the month before harvest. If peach scab is a problem, treatment needs to start after shuck-split. Peach-leaf curl is treated before bud swell. That said, I used to spray a fungicide during bloom to keep the innoculum down for the rest of the season, but I've discontinued that practice. I figure a late dormant fungicide spray (for leaf curl) should have some carry over to suppress monilinia (the brown rot pathogen) through bloom. Bacterial spot can be a problem with peaches and it can be treated in the window you mention, but it's not a fungus. Of course apples are different and can require fungicides at pink, or in some cases possibly earlier.

It's kind of a tall order, because we're looking for something that likes cool air, doesn't mind dry air, and can deal okay with low light. Individually, these conditions are no problem, but taken together, it's a lot to ask of a plant. The saving grace is that you're not expecting it to be in that position long, so let's see. Buddhist pine (Podocarpus macrophyllus), like pageysgirl suggested, is a good choice if the window gets decent light, or if you can get it to a spot with decent light after November. They're not easy to come by, in my experience, but they seem to be nice plants. English ivy (Hedera helix), per elfinn's recommendation, is also probably a good choice. They're supposed to be hardy outdoors in fairly cold climates, so that would probably work well. I'm not a big fan personally, because I have trouble keeping spider mites away from them, but some people love them. Vining stuff like Swedish ivy (Plectranthus nummularis), wandering Jew (Zebrina spp., Tradescantia spp.), purple heart (Tradescantia pallida), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), grape ivy (Cissus rhombifolia), heart-leaf philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum), etc., might work out. They wouldn't necessarily be thrilled with the location, but they all root easily from cuttings, so you could refresh the plant midway through the season with a new batch of cuttings and keep it looking decent, if it was having a tough time. Grape ivy and Swedish ivy are both supposed to like cooler temperatures, and purple heart is supposed to be hardy outdoors down to about 20F (-7C). Yucca elephantipes probably wouldn't mind, though you'd really have to watch the watering; the canes will rot if they're too wet. Jade plant (Crassula argentea, ovata, arborescens, or portulacea, depending on who you're talking to) wouldn't like the lower light, but it would be able to take it if it was only for a couple months. Haworthia spp. would prefer better light, but I have personally grown one for about a year, year and a half in a north window, and it liked that just fine. Plus they're great plants anyway. Gasteria spp. and some Aloe spp. might also be able to pull this off, though you would need to have a sunnier spot ready to receive them when temperatures got really cold. Euphorbia tirucalli is another one I've grown for an extended period in a cold north window. Aspidistra elatior (cast-iron plant), if all else fails, is supposed to be able to handle anything and everything. This is not technically true (I've found out the hard way that they do not like to be messed with during the winter, and they are susceptible to spider mites.), but they're tough plants that wouldn't be thrown by a little draft, if everything else was working for them. There are probably other possibilities, but that's what comes to mind for me.

It's a good idea to have manual drop windows in a greenhouse, in addition to fans. There are many days when just opening the house to air will be sufficient. I do that often when I have a sunny day in winter and don't want a fan to kick on and the louvers to open and suck icy air over the plants. In summer or any other time when you know you won't get a sudden temp drop..........the manual vents take over a lot of the cooling until it just gets so hot the fans kick on. Saves you $$$ and also buys you some time in a summer electrical outage to get more shade on, drop the sides, whatever until the fans get operational. Sensaphones are great if you are in a position to leave and get to your g'house or have someone else get to it in an emergency. I have airhorns hooked up to my temp alarms because I either have a baby-sitter for my g'houses if I am away when crops are in, or I don't leave them for anymore than a few hours at a time. Back-up heat is a good idea even with a generator. I have a maintenance man who will come day or night, but it doesn't help if it needs a part they don't have. I use propane fired torpedo heaters. My g'houses will usually hold four hours without a furnace in the bitter cold before it becomes critical. Ask me how I know. LOL. My biggest worry is irrigation. I don't have my g'house well electricals modified to hook to generators. I never thought of it to be honest until I had to carry water by the bucket to thousands of poinsettias from my spring in a three day snow storm. LOL.

GSD's are known for a few things. A sensitive stomach, having a hard head and allergies, all sorts of them, (food, air born, you name it). They are without a doubt my favorite dog, very guarding, loyal, and basically a "one person dog". It is nothing unusual for puppies to experience what you describe. Their little systems are developing, just like that of a two legged infant. That said, pups need to be monitored carefully for at least the first 5-6 months. What might seem "normal" for a puppy, can rapidly turn into a real mess, literally and figuratively. Make sure you keep your vet informed about what is going on. Research everything that happens to your pup and what vets prescribes and says. Consider making a daily chart of the dogs habits so you can have something to refer to if you run into issues you need to deal with (you will, trust me). There are lots of people who have different opinions about what to feed their dogs. What you experienced may have been part of the problem, maybe not. Who really knows. Given that you are starting to have issues with the ears and stomach, I would just not take a chance and switch to a hypo allergic food (I think venison and potato is best). This is a top quality food you can get only by prescription. Ive used it for 17 years with great success. My old girl who was Lab/Shepard had a corn allergy, it took care of that and Im convinced helped her to live to be 14, even though she had at least three other very serious health issues. I now have two dogs on it, one because of a wheat allergy, the other a Shepard/Hound has the same thing plus a history of UTI that has been under control since September 07 (thank you Sirius God Dog). You mention poop eating and supervision. Your pup should have every second supervision, with a leash when not crated, until she has: Teething and chewing under control, and is house trained, with no accidents for 9 months (aside from illness). Without having these very basic behavior issues under control, she is just not ready for unsupervised freedom. Good luck! SG