Funny that you guys started to discuss this just when I am about to start this same project myself. Here are my findings. First off, if you plan of putting a counter on top of the new 3.8 cu ft FL, good luck, and have your pocket book ready. You see, the deepest "standard" counters are those for kitchens, at 25 1/8". Assuming that one leaves around 5" of clearance behind those newer FL machines for vents, air circulation, heat, etc, then you are looking at about 30"-35" of depth, depending on how flush you want the counter to come to the front of the machine. Having said that, there are 3 prices for laminate counters in the stores (like Home Depot). The counters you see in the store in stock are the cheapest, and will cost around $10 li ft. If you need to pick a finish that matches say the sink counter top in your bathroom where the machines are also located, then that is considered a custom order, even if it is a standard depth. This will easily double the price to $20 li ft. Now if you want to order a non-standard depth so that it goes from the back of the wall to the front of your new FL, then you are looking at $35-$50 li ft, depending on type of finish like rounded vs sqaure front edge, back ledge or no ledge, etc... Keep this in mind when shopping for a counter top. I would like my counter to cover the machines completely, so I might have to bite the bullet and order the more expensive counter top.... Again, I am talking about a laminate counter top, no fancy materials here.... I am from Canada, and here is what the local Home Depot quoted me in Canadian dollars for the 3 options.. 1) In-Store counter (limited finishes) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $68 CAD Custom order counter (you choose the finish) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $132 - $150 CAD 30 Csutom order counter (you choose the finish) 30-35" (non standard depth) X 6 feet = $222 CAD I believe the last option of non-standard depth only allows for a square front edge finish. If you want a rounder edge in front, like that found on your kitchen counter, the price jumps to $500 CAD, since the guy said that they have to charge for a full 4X8 sheet, and then cut the custom size from there, in order to get the rounded front edge... One other option you can do, which my brother did very nicely is lay down 2 sheets of plywood (for extra thickness), and tile the top and sides, looks really nice, but is a lot more work...

It shouldn't be more than a couple of hundred dollars to panel the sides of the fridge and move that cabinet forward. I'd say $500 tops. You just haven't found the right person for the job yet. It's even pretty easily DIYable if you are remotely handy. Step #1 would be to take a cabinet door down to the best paint shop in town and having them color match it and sheen match it to the cabinets. That's actually the most difficult aspect of it. And sourcing some new crown molding that matches the profile of the old. If you can't source that, then it's easier to just replace all the cabinet's molding. Which actually would be a good thing, as you could then beef it up and take it to the ceiling. That might cost you 1K. But it would have a huge impact on the kitchen.

Raee - I'm a little concerned about it being too dark and blahh with the overall tonal look, but I'm hoping I end up with a cozy feeling. Nosoccermom - That second photo is one of the many I have saved. :) The cabinet/door side of the island that isn't showing matches the cabinets. The island originally had flat paneling on the outside so I added bb paneling, corbels, and baseboard to make it more interesting for the time being. I figured I'd start with the island to practice technique and see the color. I also thought once everything were almost finished (stained cabinets, bb backplash, new wall color, etc.) I'd get a better response for island paint color suggestions. I'd remove the paneling and add the same bb backsplash if I went with paint so it coordinates better. I originally thought white would be too start, black too harsh, so that got me thinking maybe BM Kendall Charcoal. I thought it would help pull the gray color, but it might not look right with the counter. I don't have a sample yet. Here are two pics of BM Kendall Charcoal. I just want to run and hug these cabinets. Notice the counters are light. :( I'd also like to sample Revere Pewter - maybe I could use that on the island and keep the walls with the Muslin or Shaker Beige idea. I'm just spouting off stuff that comes to me now. I wasn't sure if I should really do something different to the island, making it stand out, since it doesn't have a stellar furniture look. I'd love to add legs or something, but I'm not sure how. The corbels wouldn't have to stay. Barstools stay for now, but could change color or stain until I figured out what I wanted for replacements. Another close up shot of Tntw's cabinets with the GF Brown Mahogany gel stain. I'm really amazed at the transformation.

"L" tops in stone with a pronounced linear grain always create a challenge. 1 option is to cut the corner seam at a 45 and grain match as close as possible across the seam. sometimes this works great but it takes more stone to make the 45 degree seam. 2nd option is to put an appliance garage in the corner to mask the grain transition. 3rd option is a standard seam and just realize the best compromise is with the flow of the movement running parallel to the walls which necessitates an abrupt transition in the corner.