bicoastal, Unless it's detailed with a full vapor barrier from the start, it's very difficult to turn a "regular" shower into a steam shower with just a little remodeling. Traditional showers are normally built with a drainage plain behind the tile/cement board...it might be tar paper, it might be polyethylene sheet plastic...but it's usually "lapped for drainage" instead of being fully sealed at the seams, and it's usually a partial wall installation instead of being floor-to-ceiling and ceiling. Or there might not be any barrier at all. Just tile over backer board over framing. A steam shower can drive moisture through natural stone, through grout, and into the wall. If there's not a fully inclusive vapor barrier on all six sides of the steam room cube, then moisture vapor can be driven through the wall and into the wall cavities. When warm moisture vapor cools, it'll condense...wetting and saturating the insulation and/or the wood framing. Not good. That's why with steam showers it's best to have a fully integral vapor barrier on all sides of the cube. A small yet important point, is that "waterproofing" does not necessarily mean a "vapor" barrier. You can use a waterproofing membrane, and it'll shed liquid water. That's good enough in a traditional shower. But vapor can pass through some waterproofing membranes. Again, that's not good in a steam shower. Moisture vapor would destroy your green board over time, green board is moisture resistant. Not waterproof. Not vaporproof. It's been recognized for at least the past 20 years by good tile mechanics that green board is an inferior tile backer in wet areas. Building codes finally caught up to common trade knowledge and banned green board as a tile backer in wet areas in 2006. That said, in a typical shower green board can perform fine or 30 years or fail in 3 years. In a steam shower it'd be a short-lived installation due to repeated vapor drive. The nice thing about having a topical vapor barrier applied to the face of the tile backer board (between the backer board and the tile) is that the only thing that can get "wet" in a situation like that is the tile and the thinset. The membrane stops the moisture from penetrating into the backer board. With no deep wetting, the steam shower can dry more quickly than otherwise might be possible. While there are several materials out there that perform fine, you'll see Bill and I mention Kerdi. It's not the only material that can do the job, but it's a warm-fuzzy for me. It's been my membrane of choice since way back in the 20th century. Wow, that's over a thousand years!

You are right to worry about the garage door looking like a converted garage door. It will, and the reason is the placement of the framing. The header is considerably lower than the upper edges of the other openings in the facade, and there is nothing below the bottom edge of the door. The architecturally consistent thing to do (and it's not the cheapest way by a long shot) is to resize the opening to match the double windows to the left of the front doors, and installing a matching pair in the rebuilt wall. That means tearing out several courses of brick and replacing the structural elements inside the wall to support the narrower opening, adding the lower section of wall, reframing for the window, and filling in the brickwork. It's not easy to do, particularly when you will need to match the brick, but if you do it at the same time you build your addition, you'll have the trades already there to accomplish it. You already have a section of siding on the front of your house, and you could conceivably use the same siding to create the new window wall, but unless you are considering painting the house to make the old and new materials the same color (and that's a reasonable option), I think you will disrupt the balance of your front facade.

I looked at lots of photos of prairie houses and I'm not sure where the connection between my home and a prairie style lies. I think every single one had a shingle roof and none had arches. I did see a lot of brick in those photos so that seems to be the big thing my house has in common. As I think this through I think the money that would be spent on converting the arches would be better spent on some solar and a new roof that will keep the house cooler. We get awfully hot in the summer here. I also dislike the roof a lot more than the arches. So if I had to eliminate one, it would be the roof. I gotta say, this experience of remodeling the house and in a lot of ways transforming it, has been exhausting.

I know this is an older post but I am completing a garage conversion so I thought maybe I could help and hop off what others have mentioned. #1 DO YOUR RESEARCH!! Our garage conversion has taken over a year because of zoning and permit nightmares. As someone else has mentioned this is not an easy transition and not only is it costly up front, if you are thinking of selling within the next 10-15 years you may be better off relocating instead of renovating.....also for sanity purposes! If you are eliminating a garage it's a good idea to think about how you will replace it. We built a 32x24 pole barn in the corner of our back yard and are putting in a driveway next year. However, you have to look at the blue print of your lot and zoning. For example, we have a decent size corner lot but we still have to abide by the 60/40 rule for greenscape: we cannot build on more than 40% of our "greenscape" on our lot. In addition, the structure had to be so far behind the house so when any of our neighbors stood on their front porch they wouldn't be able to see it. Because split levels are laid out so awkwardly and we have 4 kids and another on the way we decided to make our oversize 2 car garage a kitchen, living room, and dining room so all the bedrooms are upstairs and living space is downstairs. When it comes to the entryway it seems silly to get rid of the driveway since the main entrance is still in the front. You don't want to give up off street parking. Even if you build a garage in the back and have a sidewalk leading to the front door think about walking groceries all that way....that's what a buyer would think: too confusing. I agree with what others have mentioned about the windows. You want to create a seamless look in the front so definitely try to keep the same style windows. Adding some flower boxes along the front or some sort of retainer wall that matches the current style leading to the door could work just be sure there's room for proper grading so you don't end up with water or rot around the base of your new structure. The floor inside will have to be leveled and a new footer installed for that same purpose but best not to add any unnecessary obstacles. If I were you I would consider hiring an architect to go over what you're thinking in terms of design inside and out. It's worth the extra couple hundred dollars to pay someone with experience and knowledge of zoning for your area to lay it out for you. Best of luck!!!!!