My granite supplier advised using tile from the granite up (no granite back splash). She could have advised the other way and made a little more money, so I think she advised based on her honest opinion. I also like the "no granite back splash" look better. Just guessing, I'd say the only reason to use the 4" granite back splash would be if you weren't going to use any other back splash at all (a more low-budget option, in my opinion).

Oops, sorry I see where you said you have already been to a large place. Did you try picking out a particular reasonably priced tile and then doing an internet search for it or going to the manufacturers web site and looking for other local or internet retailers? I don't know that you can determine where the price will be the best if you don't know what tile you want yet. If you do know, post it and see what other members come up with for sources. You can order tile online but you probably need to see it in person before you order from a photo. If you have seen it in person and really like it you can use the manufacturers style and color number to make sure you are getting the same thing online. Or try posting photos of expensive tile you like and see if anyone is aware of similar tiles available for less from other manufacturers. Sue

With a granite backsplash, you'll still have a seam so it defeats the purpose stated by that granite guy. Only time I see tile over a 3" granite backsplash is when they are done at different times (change in homeowners or you decide to add tile in the future). Most people getting new counters will just tile from the counter up.

lmao. what Jan said! Although, I had to help out my guys who did my herringbone wood floor. it's the starting point where everyone gets messed up. after that, it's simple. Look up how to properly start a herringbone layout and read it. you need to use a speed square at the end of your tile in order to get the proper middle starting point. much easier to illustrate than trying to write it out here. This is how I showed my guys how to start it. see the blue tape w/the two lines? you have to start on the middle after you mark your corner. that's the only way you will get perfect even cuts on both ends. this is how most do it, and it's not correct IF you want perfectly symmetrical left/right borders. All he's done is set the corner of the tile on the line. doing it like this will leave you w/one side smaller than the other: see how the sides of the window don't match? this is what you don't want. your tile guy should be doing a dry layout in order to determine where he starts so he doesn't get this look or these tiny triangles. Again,,,see how the ends don't match below? the right has longer tiles than the left edge. that's because of the way he started his first tile. And don't do these vertical tiles for your edging. get proper bullnose tiles, pencil liner or a Schluter edge. This is a layout board of my herringbone for my shower. took a few hours in order to get this almost perfect. since this was an odd size, and the tiles were even at 3x12, it couldn't be perfect. the right bottom corner triangle is the only portion that doesn't match. luckily, it's not readily visible! Even the subway tiles are perfectly matched. this layout took hours to get exact, even around the niche. 2x6your 3x9 will be 1/3 larger. 3x9 is a good size for a backsplash. this is a regular 3x6. again, a 3x9 will give you 1/3 longer.