It looks like you don't have enough corn for good pollination. My understanding is that you need at least 4' x 4' of corn for decent pollination. Do you have a plan on how you will get to the plantings in the back for care & harvesting? I think you might want to consider some stepping stones at least. Consider also that your plants will bush out - when we grew cukes & beans on a trellis in a bed 2 feet from the fence they bushed out so much there wasn't much room to get behind them. Also, I have never grown okra, but I've heard the plant can be irritating to the skin. I think it gets pretty big, too. You might think about putting it together & somewhere you won't have to come into contact with it until you want to. Why are you mixing things up? Are you trying to avoid cross pollinating varieties, or going for aesthetics? Or is it for another reason? I would consider putting same plants together because they will have the same needs & you can more easily deal with them as a group. Beans are great & can be very productive. You could substitute them for the corn along the back. Perhaps you could do a block of a short variety of corn (so it doesn't shade other things too much) if you move things around a bit. I am not familiar with your growing area, so I'm not sure what else to add. I see you have cukes growing on the fence, but you have a line of them down into the bed. Will those get a trellis, or are you putting bush varieties in front? Definitely (IMO) put as much organic matter into your soil as you can. We have terrible soil here (sand), but my small gardens are looking lush. We found a local coffee shop that gives us bags of their compostable material regularly. We add that straight to the garden beds (coffee grounds, veggie scraps, egg shells) with some manure (we use quail because it is inexpensive & convenient). Also, we added in some peat moss & vermiculite the first couple of times we were turning over the beds. Hopefully someone with more expertise will give you some good tips. Best of luck!

That is true, although it did do quite well in the full-frontal crash test. However, the Previa has been around long enough now for a good deal of real-life safety data from actual collisions to be collected, and it has faired quite well. Actually slightly below average for minivans, but since minivans as a group protect their occupants much better than cars, you're still better off getting hit in a Previa than in, say, an Accord or Camry sedan. And I don't hear people calling those cars unsafe. If safety is a high priority though, best to pony up the dough for a new Sienna or Odyssey since they are more crashworthy than older designs (or the current Chryslers), and also have features that help prevent accidents in the first place (like stability control, etc.) Another old 4WD minivan I forgot about is the Ford Aerostar. I can't remember when they stopped making them. They are based on the Ranger pickup truck platform, but not as tall and trucky as the Chevy Astro, and not as unreliable.

I like those last 4 x 4s on the floor, Beth. But they are not the pure white glazed tiles, they have some variation in color and shading. And they are not paired with identical wall tiles. I don't think that using the same 4 x 4s on both will work well. It will look like the homeowner found a sale and either bought too many or could not find the funds or the imagination to do a different floor. Organic Cook, how about using a large format hex tile on the floor, like the ones in the green and black bath and the white baths just above? It has a nod toward the vintage, by going hex on the floor, with a foot in the modern by not doing mosaic tile. They come in 8 inch size (maybe larger), so will decrease the number of grout lines in comparison with the vintage mosaics. You could look at a nice tile with some variegation, like the 4 x 4 floor above has. You could look for a color that is related to whatever the floor color is in the hall, so that the floor color flows between the rooms. If the hall has a wood floor, look for a tile that has about the same amount of color as the two tiles in the last bathroom in Beth's post above mine. Not a wood-look tile, but a glazed or color-body tile that has tones that tie into the hall flooring. Another idea would be to go back to your original choice of gray and white. Here are two 10" hex tiles from Tile Bar that would look good with white wall tiles.This one is a cement-look porcelain at $6. I love the variegation in color. Link This one looks like it may be beige, which would go with some wood floors. This one is at Home Depot and is more expensive. $15.95/sq ft. If you go to this link, there is a video that shows it grouted with both white and dark charcoal or black. Wayfair has this Carrara-look hex on sale. They show it with dark grout, too. $7.51 sq ft. I can't get an image saved to my computer, so I can't post it.

Without a general location (GA zone 7 is different than Cape Cod zone 7 or WA zone 7) panicled hydrangeas like those you listed will do the best in zone 7 with much sun of the various hydrangea species. Most of the other hydrangea species need afternoon shade or all day dappled shade since they naturally grow in the understory and are much needier of constant moisture. I love panicled hydrangeas, and in my cold zone 5 they color up well. Fom what I have read they may not do that in zone 7 unless you have cool late summer and fall evenings and nights. In your case, I would ask around to see how they behave in your area. If they don’t color well and just go from white to tan without the late summer reds, consider a type where the fall pink tones aren’t a big part of the appeal like Limelight or Little Lime which are both lime green and white, or White Diamond that stays very white almost until frost here. In the area where you have the box, I would remove the landscape cloth under it. That will allow the plants’ roots to grow into the soil under the boxes. The hardware cloth and gravel won’t be an issue for the roots, but the landscape cloth will interfere with movement of water and any deeper roots. And IME gardening in an area where voles are a constant issue, they don‘t seem to bother panicled hydrangeas at all. I have 5 of them in several gardens where other more succeptible plants have been killed while the hydrangeas have flourished.