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Comments (10)Thank you for your kind comments about the video. Youtube is a big place and I'm wandering the halls, trying some doors and trying not to get lost. Lol. Re the age thing. I think they are trying to match up the ads to my age group. Little do they know, that most of my spending is for my children and grandchildren these days.So if they want to match me up with demographics, do ages from 5-50. Anyway, I'm having a ball with Youtube....See MoreValue of ag extension (A&M) soil test?
Comments (8)I never have understood this concept of wood chips taking too much nitrogen from developing/growing plants. sooner or later they decompose and who benefits? they plants we are trying to grow. Perhaps a more correct statement would be that "not totally decomposed organic material MAY slow the development of plant materials." I do not hesitate to use wood shavings in my compost and or directly on plants. Within one season this material disappears or, more accurately, decomposes into good, nutrient filled medium. same with concept of mushroom compost being "too salty". First, it would take a lot of it and an long time to convert soil to salty. Even doing something silliy like pouring table salt on your soil would do squat. The fundamental thing one has to do to understand what they're working with, is get soil tested. Then, and only then, can you develop strategies for good, satisfying gardening. I know this from first hand experience. Tested soil and it was neutral. Since I was hoping to grow azaleas, I amended my soil with pine needs, iron, and every practice imaginable to increase acidity. 3-5 years later I retested soil to see if my efforts were rewarded and guess what: My soil continued to be perfectly neutral. Some azalea shrubs grew well and some died. Obviously it was more than soil. And my efforts to increase acidity were for naught, but my soil did get fluffier and worm pop. increased dramatically. I once attended a lecture where the speaker said that the perfect soil is a neutral soil b/c it has just the right amount ofo anything that's needed. It made perfect sense to me and ever since I focus on improving the worklability of my neutral clay soil, rather than changing its nature....See MoreWhat was/will be your first real meal in your new kitchen?
Comments (33)Before I started planning disposables for family dinner, and cooking and freezing at my mother's house, I did have a plan... (Donka, thanks for the sympathy!) My new kitchen is going to be initiated with an open house style party. Lots of hors d'oeuvre (borekes, especially, from the new convection oven), salads (steamed vegetable salad from the new steam oven), roasts, and breads and cakes. What I'm really looking forward to, besides reliable ovens, is capacity. The ability to put on a real spread. The dinner for 22 is usually just family dinner, and if I hadn't packed the stock pot, carving knife, roaster and company dishes I wouldn't be stressing. But fifty? I'm really looking forward to being able to cook for the whole family, let alone friends too......See MoreWhat %age of floor area do your windows use?
Comments (16)Great info from Ikbum and others. I think in any building envelope design, starting with your titled question is a good start. The 15% overall is the default value of Resfen, a useful energy modeling software and probably a good average for homes in N. america. Obviously, this variable varies on style and site but its nice to have for a point of comparison. Passive solar design's most descriptive variable is % of high SHGC , sun-facing(south) window area to floor area. Ikbum's example suggests over 15% which is getting too high for most designs. This can lead to overheating even in the winter. A better performing variable from Ikbum's example is 0% west facing glass. This is seldom seen as a factor in traditional passive solar design but has everything to do with its essence as good solar design should exclude unwanted heat as much as gain it during times of need. Very cold climates often have more to gain from the west than lose but it depends.. A better range for most passive solar designs with building envelopes in the 2012 IECC performance range is perhaps closer to 10%. For those building even better, like net-zero optimized or passive haus levels should probably be closer to 5-6% to avoid overheating. As for thermal mass TM, we like to use exposed concrete slabs as the most cost effective approach. Adding anymore beyond what's needed for construction anyway has debatable benefits. TM delays thermostat to temperature response which can be a double edged sword in comfort performance. I agree with the ICF comments and would add that very few of them have the effective R values called for by IECC minimums in cold climates. Wow's response is due to the fact that your home seems to be oriented in the opposite direction of ideal. North facing windows are performance killers in your climate. I would be looking into high shgc, triple panes to slow the bleeding on those orientations. Sounds like you would benefit from hiring a third party energy rater thats familiar with your site and climate to advise you on selecting your window package. Here is a link that might be useful: Cost-effective passive solar design...See MoreRelated Professionals
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