I have been in the trades since childhood in New England. I've always liked the looks of standing seam roofing and have observed it for forty years. Like everything else it has its' pros and cons. My opinion is no roof should have anything less than 5/8 plywood sheathing, no osb,pressboard,7/16, it's all crap! Make sure that clips are used between the rafters as well. Even if you lived in the Gobi desert you would still get condensation forming on the back side of the panels when the sun went down [ remember that Boy Scout survival thing with the piece of plastic and the cup and the hole in the ground ] so it is of utmost importance to properly seal the roof deck with a bituminous sheeting. W. R. Grace makes a product just for beneath metal roofs in hot or high altitude climates [ it wont melt and run down the roof like regular water shield ] , this also provides an interlayer between the roofing and the acids and abrasiveness of the decking, which will eventually wear your roofing from the under side if you choose not to strap the roof. Use it! In my opinion you should then strap the roof to provide proper ventilation. This will not only allow condensation to evaporate but also help minimize expansion and contraction, which leads to fastener hole wear and leakage. I don't know how this applies to a place that gets hail the size of baseballs, though. If you do strap proper screening of the eave edge is critical. This should be done in such a way to keep all "critters" out and not restrict the air flow [ the house I'm in now has corrugated roofing and the foam strip has fallen out/apart and the bats just use it like a highway ], for the life off the roof ie: stainless window screen secured under the ends of the strapping and to the roof, then folded back over the top of the strapping and captured by the panels. Maybe someday, someone will invent a honey-comb like sheet that lays between the strapping and does all of the above, but until then one has to make do. I suppose you could use lengths of "ridge vent" instead. Hope this helps.

Just met with a roofing contractor last evening.... Now I installed my current asphalt shingle roof (one story with 6/12 pitch, about 15 squares) 25 years ago, and it's time for a new one. I won't be doing it again. The contractor showed a new-to-me product: metal shingles, as opposed to the standing-seam metal roof. It has the look of 'dimensional' asphalt shingles, but many times the life expectancy. It's guaranteed for 50 years with a probable life of 70. Not bad.... Plus, it has been tested to withstand 120 mph winds. It screws down rather than being nailed down. Plus, it's about as resistant to external fires as a roof can be. However, the cost.... The contractor quoted a price of about $12,000 - that's $800 a square! - whereas another roofer quoted a mere $3000 for an architectural-grade asphalt shingle roof. That's only $200 a square. I guess it all comes down to how long you plan to own the house. For me, my house is probably a tear-down if sold. (Small house, big lot in an expensive neighborhood) So despite the benefits and durability of the metal roofing, I probably go with the asphalt.... If you do choose to do that as well, check the materials/construction of the shingles closely. About 15 years ago, the asphalt content of shingles was reduced dramatically, shortening their life.... Cheers

Hi, Those foam strips are called 'foam closures' and there are factory-formed for the profile of the roof it is being used on. The amount of glue that the factories put on these strips is less than minimal to say the least. Having siad that, only a little bit is needed. Are they coming out near the gutters or the metal ridgecap? If its near the gutter, it would be best if you could back out the screws that are keeping the metal roof panel down, raise the panel enough to get the foam closure out, clean the area if necessary with a damp rag, apply a small amount of Geocel (or comparable product), place the foam closure back in place and replace the roof panel and screw. Its recommended that the screws (assuming they are galvanized) should be replaced with new ones if they have been installed that long. As well, replace them with longer screws that are at least 1/2 inch long so that fresh wood is grabbed. Or, same length screw but the shank of the screw should be thicker (1/16th). Don't overtighten the screws, the foam washers that come with the screws should fit snug to the roof panel to stop water infiltration. One more thing, screws should be installed perpendicular to the roof panel for a flat flush install. If you can't or don't want to mess with the roof panels and screws then simply pull out the foam closure as best you can without tearing them, apply a bit of Geocel and push the foam closure in place. For the ridgecap repairs, walking on a normal roof is dangerous enough, walking on a metal roof poses additional hazards. They include slippery surface, trip hazards from the ridges and screw (or nail) heads, and walking between the strapping can cause you to accidently dent your roof panel. Roof panels are fairly easy to replace, its getting a color match that's tricky especially for older (sunbaked) roofs. For the ridgecap, you could access your attic and fit the foam closures up through that area. Work Safe, Jim Barry Nova Scotia, Canada

Here's a pic showing our faux rafter tails. Not the best pic, but you get the idea. I remember now why closed soffits are required in some areas- fire prevention. Almost all of the outside materials on our house are fire-resistant, offering some small comfort living in the woods during an extreme drought.