Does "non-functioning" mean it won't grind, or just that the water won't go down? If it won't grind, use the hex wrench and insert from underneath to loosen. If it's humming but not turning, see if there is a reset button underneath and push it. Easiest would be to get it working again, then use a strainer into the drain. Second easiest, if the water is just not draining, would be to clear it. Buy a snake, loosen and remove the trap, and insert, feed it, turn, etc. (You may need a 12" adjustable, channellock type wrench to turn the nuts for the trap). It will likely be smelly and messy, so remove everything from the cabinet. Not a bad idea to temporarily lay some newspaper in there, too. Now, if you still want permanent removal, at a minimum that means turning off the power, dropping the disposer, lay it on it's side (watch for leftover water), disconnecting the wire (or just clip it with wire cutters close the unit), cap any exposed ends of the wire (or wrap a "clipped" end with a bunch of electical tape), and roll it up and tuck it way back into the cabinet. Then install a basket, slip-nut type 1 1/2" drain, etc. You will need plumber's putty, a hacksaw (to cut some of the pipes) and that 12" wrench. Maybe a "tailpiece" extension, too.

Christine- for me, life would be just plain ewwww, gross. I have put my hand down there (and no I don't unplug either) and it is a fear factor experience every time I've had to do it! I sort of close my eyes and hope for quick and clean removal of whatever I am fetching. It is ummm, a thing I have with reaching into icky places I guess - can't clean out a chicken without disposable gloves on either - no way, uh uh. I do occasionally put baking soda in there and that supposedly helps with odor (what does baking soda NOT do). Mom23Es - we have that disaster on the floor around the table as well as sometimes the trail on the way to the trash to scrape the plates...but that is where the dog comes in handy! I also figure with a bit of food in the septic - what better thing to grow bacteria and help break all that stuff down faster!

Definitely put in a GD! And, put it on both sinks if you have both a cleanup and prep sink. We only put one on our cleanup sink b/c my DH was trying to save money, and it's one of my regrets. When we build again, if he wants to do the same, it's the cleanup sink that doesn't get it! (My DH does most of the cleanup - so I'm sure he'll change his mind!) Nope, no compost pickup or anything remotely like that around here. We are on septic and have a GD. I use it probably more than most people above and have had absolutely no problems! We have the InSinkerator Evolution Septic Assist and we do use the bio-charge - I don't know if it helps or not, but since it's supposed to help, we do use it. Most municipalities today allow you to have GD if you have one designed for septic systems. No, the refuse does not end up in the ocean (or even rivers, etc.) It goes into the septic tank and, as Dchall discussed, it breaks down in the tank and actually helps the septic system to work better. See his/her post - it's correct. If you live somewhere where they dump into the ocean or similar, then you have bigger problems than people using GDs - not to mention untreated public waste. I didn't think that was even legal, at least not in the USA.

I don't think an acrylic shower insert is your answer. MAAX and a few other companies make excellent products, but they all have the same limitation. The walls must be plumb and meet at nearly a perfect 90 degree angle. Otherwise, they look botched. I doubt your bathroom can meet this criterion. Be cautious of quick fixes, they usually don't last very long, and unless you want to do it all over again in 5 years, look for a quality solution. Without knowing more than you have disclosed here, we would approach the problems one by one like this: Level the floor. There is some structural issue here that needs to be fixed first. Tile the floor only after it is level and has "rested" for at least a week. If the existing tub is in good shape, check to see if it is level in both directions to about 1/8". If not, take it out to find the problem. It's probably the floor, but be sure. Fix the problem and reinstall the tub, or install a new tub. Use semi-vitreous ceramic tile for the shower surround. Tile is forgiving of even major issues with walls that are not plumb and/or do not intersect at exactly a 90 degree angle. With the new urethane grouts, glazed tile is virtually maintenance free, especially if you add a little fungicide to the mix. We use a marine grade fungicide made for boats. Never had a mildew problem. You can also tile the ceiling, but this is probably overkill. Two coats of a stain hiding primer like Kilz followed by two coats of a good acrylic enamel (semi gloss) is very washable and a lot less expensive. Replace the existing window with a good quality vinyl window. Ordinarily, I hate vinyl windows, but in showers they are perfect -- water has absolutely no effect on them. Have your tiler return the tile to the window and slope the stool slightly so the water runs off. Caulk where the tile meets the window for a watertight envelope. While the exterior walls are open, replace any existing rock-wool insulation with fiberglass batts or, for better results, blown-in closed cell foam or cellulose. Foam and cellulose, in addition to insulating, seal off any small holes that are the source of drafts. Install a minimum 300 cfm working fan vented to the outside. It should be on a time delay switch or, better yet, a moisture-sensing switch that keeps the fan on until all the excess moisture is gone. This will take care of most of your mildew problem, the fungicide will take care of the rest. Good luck with the project.