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Valve trim for shower head and tub spout

last month

do I need valve trim with 2 functions and a diverter? or 1 function and a diverter? I live in California and I believe that we are to use one function at a time. the new tub spout does not have the little thing that my old one does that makes the water go to the spout. thank you

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Comments (2)

PRO
Minardi
last month
This depends on what manufacture you choose. The plumbing supply house that your plumber sends you to should be able to help you with both aesthetics and functions.
0
coastal_vibe
last month
last modified: last month
The valve rough-in (the part that goes inside the wall) needs to match with the trim (the part that is flush with the wall). It is not possible to change the functionality of the valve simply by sticking on a new trim.

I am not a plumber, but I think there are various ways to achieve the results you want:
1. The least expensive option is to purchase a tub spout that has the "thingy" (diverter) on the top to divert water from the tub spout to the showerhead -- water follows the path of least resistance -- will flow from the tub spout if not blocked by "the little thing on top" and forced up to the showerhead
2. Change your current pressure-balanced control valve to a non-sharing integrated thermostatic / volume / diverter control valve (new rough-in and new trim) with two inlets (hot & cold) and two outlets (one outlet to the showerhead and one outlet to the tub spout)
3. Keep your current valve (rough-in and trim) and add a separate diverter valve (rough-in and trim) with one input and two outlets; run a pipe from the control valve to the diverter valve; run pipes from the diverter valve to the showerhead and tub spout
Unless you want to use the space only for the tub, and not for showering.

Edited to add: I am in CA, and I think that tub and a showerhead can be shared (used concurrently), so may be able to use a single control valve that allows sharing of two outputs.
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Joseph Corlett, I don't remember seeing a gasket. Here is a link to my diverter and the trim piece: https://www.deltafaucet.com/bathroom/product/r10000-unws https://www.deltafaucet.com/bathroom/product/T17067 This is a link to Loctite 2 in 1 Tub and Tile Polyseamseal: http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/PSS_SEAL_TT_tds.pdf I found out Loctite also has a different Polyseamseal that is listed as 100% silicone: http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pss_seal_silicone/overview/Loctite-100-Silcone.htm Did you caulk around your shower flange/shower arm trim or around the tub spout?
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I feel like #1 shouldn't happen because you would ask the client. But the research I did suggested that anywhere from 80"-84" is the current practice for shower head height (up from 72"-76" a generation ago). We asked for 78" and our contractor accidentally measured from the subfloor instead of the finished floor, so we ended up with 75" and then chose a shower installation that specified that height (Kohler Hydrorail system, which has options for several different heights). So it all worked out in the end, but if someday someone wants to just put on a fixed shower head, they'll probably be annoyed. For #2, I can only assume the plumbing was already in place and the tub was changed out...??? Or some specification wasn't available when the rough-in was done. But yes, now it needs to be moved--how on earth would you clean that?
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