The job is a PITA for sure. I had 3 or 4 rooms to tackle in my home. I swear the paper went up over the drywall in some rooms or over the primer, hard to tell. After a few failed attemmtps at a 'fast' removal methods, I found one that worked...just requires patience. Take a test run on a 2 foot section of wall..... 1) Get a wall claw. Take a 2 foot section and claw it over and over. When you are done walk away a few minutes because when you get back you will claw it again. This step is important. 2) There will be areas where the claw does not reach, usually in corners or along the ceiling. I bought a second claw and disassebled it and mounted the claw part on a bolt. Now I had a tool to get to most of those other areas. You need not do this on the first 2 foot section, wait and make sure this method works for you first! 3) Get paper remover. I bought stuff from Sherman Williams-- their brand. Get a spray bottle...forget a garden sprayer...too messy. Fill the spray bottle with hot water from your tap. Pour in some remover...never mind measuring it out you want a very strong mix. 4) Spray the 2 foot section of wall slowly letting the spray absord as much as possible. Some will run so have a towel ready to keep the area below you dry....keep towels on the floor too. Refill your spray bottle with hot water as necesary adding remover solution. Once the entire area is wet...spray it again. 5) WALK AWAY FOR 15 MINUTES. Return ONLY after 15 minutes and spray the area again...you may grab a corner to see if the paper 'falls right off' but I doubt it will...spray it a second time and WALK AWAY FOR ANOTHER 15 minutes. **The waiting part seems to be the most important! 6) Come back and spray again. The paper should now come off fairly easily...except for the areas where the claw could not reach. Some will not simply lift off but if you swipe a 3" putty knife it will come off. 7) Spray the wall again. Run a putty knife along the wall...you are now gathering excess glue on the knife. Wipe the wall with a wet sponge ringing it out as you go along. 8) If successfull...go to the next section. You can likely work a 4 foot area at a time. 9) Once all the paper is down let everything dry for 24 hours. 10) Clean the walls with wet water and towels twice. I then used a mild solution of TSP (I believe they sell something less harsh though) and rinsed twice. ALL TSP MUST BE OFF THE WALLS! 11) Let dry 24 hours 12) Spackle and patch and sand. Repeat as necesary. 13) Prime. Let dry. You will now likely see some areas that you missed, spackle etc as necesary. 14) Paint. YOU ARE DONE! There was nothing really hard about this but you had to commit to it being a slow moving job ahead of time. Now, before I did this I would certainly try just pulling the paper off or seeing you can get it off following the instructions on the remover solution or even renting a steamer---I never tried that one myself. In my case the easy / quick methods did not work. I hope you have better luck.

Hi Srg215, Wow...well, I'm not totally sure yet but I seem to recall the designer saying "2-3,000" for this carpet (bound as a rug), approximate size 10x14. If that's bound as a rug and delivered, I guess $2000 isn't that much more than $12 0/sq ft, but I'll find out the exact price this week and let you know. I had no idea I could find the same exact product for potentially so much less. Can you give me the info re: your Bergen store and what they call it? Stark calls the pattern "Westfield" and this green color "Spring", or is that only what Stark calls it? Thanks so much. Madeline

The way I figure wall paper Is to measure the height of the wall I want to cover....then measure down that number of inches on the roll...put a little pencil mark on the edge of that spot. Then search for the spot in the pattern that matches where you began at the beginning of the roll. the repeat can work for youas well as against you. When you find the place in the pattern that matches your first strip....again measure your needed length and put a mark. Repeat and that will tell you how many strips you will have to use. When going to the next roll....don't assume it will begin in the same spot on the pattern....check and again find your match and measure length. The only time you can use the "area of the wall" formula is if you have little or no waste due to match.

I removed the wallpaper from an entire house of similar age and style, although on a smaller scale. Other than one small storage space and bedroom closets, every wall in the house was unpainted plaster under the wallpaper. I had one guy who did the quality of work I wanted at a reasonable price and I kept him occupied for many months, now going on 12 years of personal and business projects. When you own a beautiful vintage home, it is important to find someone who will honor the quality and craftsmanship and be happy to have the opportunity to work on your house. Owning a beautiful vintage home is a lifestyle choice and I was willing to spend the money and devote the hours required for many years. It is expensive to do the work right and cheap fixes cause more problems and cost more money in the long run. There are many competent painters out there but many of them are focused on the profit side and historic house projects are more difficult to predict and manage. I would be looking for a small company where the owner runs the jobs himself and stay away from companies with multiple crews doing different projects. Rarely does the attention to detail extend equally to every member of a large crew and I want the boss on site. In my house, only the ceilings were canvassed. We ended up removing the canvas in a couple rooms because once the canvas is torn, it is quite common for the problem to spread. We were able to repair one portion of the living room ceiling but it was not guaranteed to work. That room was about 350 sq ft and I was willing to take the chance rather than pay more to remove to bare plaster and skim coat. I did a good portion of the wallpaper removal myself, working with the painter on a time and materials basis. He was not comfortable giving me a bid for that part of the work because wallpaper removal is just too variable. One benefit of plaster walls is the surface is more forgiving than drywall. If you are relatively handy and healthy enough for the work, it is not difficult, just time consuming and boring. Turn up the music, protect the floors and woodwork and just get busy. I was very fortunate that only the crown molding in the foyer, main floor hallway and back hallway had been painted. We stripped that paint and it was a good decision despite the amount of work involved. It is expensive, but done right, it will never need to be done again.