This is how the bathroom did look before. The tiles were not that old, but the rest of the bathroom was. Sorry but I have not been suggestful at rotating the photo! Here is a link that might be useful: Bathroom before...

I designed my first space (master bathroom) about a year and a half ago. It was the first space I ever got to design/create from scratch... I did NOT have a designer, I just had GW, Pinterest, and magazines.. LOL A couple pieces of recycled glass from Pottery Barn inspired my entire bathroom remodel. I always say, design a space with things you love, and you can't go wrong... (Okay, you probably can go wrong lol) but hopefully you get what I'm saying. I love recycled green glass, so my entire design started with that in mind. From there, I choose a pretty backsplash that had the same colors as my recycled glass pieces.. I knew I wanted a white countertop so that was an easy choice since it went well with my glass tile. Slowly but surely everything came together. But in the early stages of my design, when I had a blank slate... I had millions of ideas running, and I didn't really know where to start. I almost went with some safe tan choices... But after the recycled glass inspired me, tans no longer worked with my vision. Just keep in mind, the more bold of choice(s) (or some may say "gaudy") the quicker it may go out of style. I'm not saying go safe/boring.. Just something to think about overall. Sometimes you can decorate and changes things up in a space with small accent pieces.. But there are some design pieces that you're more "stuck with" usually the big ticket items - vanity, tile, etc... so choose them wisely.

Excellent - First. What waterproofing system will be used so that the proper substrate can be addressed. Use the tech support number for the system is the best way. If that's taping compound instead of thinset on those cement board joints they can get rid of those also. Screws & studs at proper spacing. Correct screws as dry wall screws will rust from alkali in the thinset. Tape in the corners & seams must be alkali resistant fiberglass. NOT drywall tape. So for the most part everything that was done is wrong. Unless I'm not viewing your photo's correctly. The test of your patience has begun:)

I'm not sure where you live, but we gutted and remodeled three bathrooms (including moving walls and moving plumbing in the concrete base), replaced two picture windows, knocked out a window and wall to install a large double door, and replaced every door and door hardware in the house...all for $60,000 in the Texas Hill Country. We did not have any plans, but this was not our first remodel. We found the best GC in the area, waited until we could get on his schedule, and went for it. He came in, we waived our arms around and he took notes. It came out perfectly. I lived in the house during the remodel, so that cost more for them to not gut all the bathrooms at one time. Here are a few tips. Trust your GC to have a good shower installer. As mentioned above, be sure to look at the wet cof (coefficient of friction) for your shower floor tiles. We picked a smooth tile (not glossy) that just seemed like it would be slippery when wet, but the wet cof was very high. Sure enough it worked great and was never slippery. Unless you are at a Daltile shop, the sales people do not know what the cof is, so you have to educate yourself. The box of tile should have wcof and dcof printed on the side. I like Moen faucets everywhere because you can get the replacement valve for about $10 at any hardware store. Never had to replace one, but at least I don't need to find a specialty plumbing shop to get parts. Delta and all the others have different valve models for every faucet and every year requiring a heavy catalog of parts. One O-ring might cost $10. Look at having cabinets custom made instead of off the shelf. Ask your GC for recommendations. The cost will be very similar and quality will be better. We did not get plans for our cabinets either, and ours are very different from any you can buy. Modern porcelain tiles are laser printed with designs that look exactly like stone, marble, or wood. You need a magnifying glass to see that ours are not real stone. Check to see if you have a Floor & Decor store near you. They are a tile superstore with an eye watering selection of tile, stone, wood, and laminates at rock bottom prices. We picked tile with a green appearance of limestone and found a wood look tile with a similar green cast to it. The tile looks brown installed, but the true brown tiles looked horrible next to the greenish stone look tile. If you are going to open your walls, add electric outlets. We have outlets at both ends of the vanity, but we forgot to put one on the wall by the floor (facepalm). Every now and then we want a space heater on but only in the bathroom. No outlet. Pay attention to where the door hinges go on the shower door and on the entry door. Do you want the doors to open inward or outward? Left side or right? There are some very quiet fans on the market. Get one bigger than you need. Ours keeps the air clear during the hottest and longest showers. You can feel air coming in under and around the door. We also redid our HVAC in the master suite so we don't have much air movement...which means I sometimes leave the fan running for days and days to bring in fresh air. It is quiet enough to not bother us at night. Use LED lighting. The bulbs are slightly more expensive, but mine have never burned out in 10 years. We have never had dark, granitey counter tops, so I just recently learned of a problem with them. My daughter has dark granite with swirly patterns in her kitchen. You can't see the spills on it. She had both jelly and chocolate spilled on hers, and she thought they were clean. I found out when I tried to wrap a package. At least with a uniform pattern or lighter colors, you can see what needs to be wiped up. This goes for the floor, too. Don't enclose your shower all the way to the ceiling. We had a problem with air flow in ours before we opened it up. The shower would get moldy. After we opened it up above 6.5 feet, the mold never returned. We had an open space in a corner that is just lost space. Since it was unusable, we had our cabinet maker make a medicine cabinet that is 8 inches deep (normal is 4). It's great to have the extra volume. Get drawers that pull all the way out so the back of the drawer is even with the front of the cabinets. If you don't specify, they will install glides that leave 4 inches under the counter. Stuff gets lost back there.