OK, so the jpg identifies the drawing as #2, but that doesn't show on FB. The image that shows 1 sink with the comment "trough sink and 2 fixtures", is the leading contender. Not the red line drawing with 2 sinks. D'oh!

You don't have to know what will go on the upper part of the wall. Prep and prime it and you'll be ready when you decide. I think you can use that medicine cabinet if it is something you love. I'm not sure how to judge your "is it too much" thinking though -- do you really love it? As far as size, make sure you have the height for it with lighting that you like. Include the height of your vanity, the splash, some room above that, the mirror and then see what you have left for lighting and clearance above and below. I would like the wider mirror, but if your ceilings are low, you may need to go shorter. If the mirror fits, what would you think about getting some rub n silver from the craft store and adding some silver highlights to the mirror and lightening it up a bit? If you like that idea, go to Hobby Lobby or Michael's and get some of that rub on silver (yep -- use your finger even), and give it some highlights. That might soften it a bit and tie it in to your lighter room. If you've never done anything like that, find something to practice on -- a picture frame, a flower pot or vase - something that you can play with and see how it works on edges and details. For lighting. look at the fourth row of that Ferguson's lighting link, look at the Feiss Claridge. That could follow the shape of the top of the mirror and it might be nice to bring in another curve rather than a straight line. Personally, I like a three light fixture most of the time. It's that odd number thing, plus, if that is the main source or only source of light in the bathroom, I think it's better to have the ability to have more light and tone it down with a dimmer or smaller bulbs if you need to or want to. As far as the toile, it's hard to say not seeing the space and what you have. It might look great, but you keep your other elements in mind. Glad you kept the grout light. I do think that the floral idea will work better than some other toile patterns because of the round and flowing lines. The ones that are tiny sketches scattered could wind up looking like one more liner element. All I can tell you about the creaminess is that I can't tell you anything from my monitor. You'll have to look at the different elements together. You should be able to order a sample of the wallpaper and you might want to try a few to compare.

I agree with kmcg. On the upper wall, which is 77" I believe, have a 42" wide shower and a 35" wide vanity. The vanity should only be 18-20" deep. The vanity can abut the shower wall, ideally done in glass. If you have other storage very near the master bath and require little storage actually in the bathroom, I would just have a counter with sink stretching from the shower wall to the opposite wall - this will make the room feel larger and will save you lots of money. But if storage is a premium you will need a vanity with storage for the potential buyers. The shower depth will be 52", so a 42" x 52" shower (a very good size I think). The 24" shower door or opening will be more or less opposite your window. Rotate the toilet as kmcg suggests - you will still have 44" for the toilet, lots of room. You could have some storage in a cabinet or shelves above the toilet. towels under the window. Keep the door where it is, very minor plumbing changes. Keep the same toilet and faucet/sink if they are decent, you should be able to keep the costs in check. Shellking's suggestion to speak to a realtor is a good one, but that tiny shower is a real issue I think, especially if the rest of the house is lovely and recently renovated. Buyers will expect the same level of attention in the master bath I think.

Very nice, ejorritsma. Are those Newport Brass faucets at the shower and sink, and is your niche finished off with quarter round tile? I like that detail. Flyleft, my tile is actually almond, and the grout matches it perfectly, although it photographs white for some reason. Although Bill wanted me to use a tan/light brown grout instead of the almond, I wanted more of a subtle "texture" depending as much on shadow lines as anything else for its visual definition (and although it doesn't show up on pictures because of the flash, it does come across fine IRL) rather than strong contrast. Almond grout doesn't show dirt anywhere near as much as white - I would rather "cut me own froat" than fight with white grout! :-) High contrast creates far too busy a look for my own personal tastes, although it works (in someone else's house) if it ties back into other high-contrast elements in the room, and if I'm going to spend at least an hour a day looking at it... *chuckle* In the new house, since it's an oldie, I'll probably be a little more "slave to period" with white subway tile instead of almond, but the grout will still be pretty softly toned. A review of my documentation reminds me that white (although it was the most expensive and only stayed white for about three minutes), off-white, sand, beige, and a range of grays from near-white to "battleship" were available in the late 19th and early 20th century. I'm planning on lots of warm woodtones and warm-colored metals so I'm thinking of maybe a light "greige"-ish sort of color. Of course, I haven't seen samples yet, so that's subject to change without notice. ;-)