I would agree with natural_one. I am not a pool builder... just a homeowner... I am putting one GloBrite in next week on my shelf... and 3-5g pool lights in the main pool. I will have better experience in a few weeks once water is in the pool, but I am just guessing from what I see on the lights, that the beam distribution is much different for the glo brite since it is meant for shallow water shelf use. And at less than half the wattage, I am sure you get much less light output. May be cost related or may be he thinks having 3 lights will give better coverage? Or may be he is doing it because the niche is cheaper and does not require bonding? That brings up another point... light bezels are usually the means of bonding the pool water... if you are only using Glo Brites, then there is no water bonding... which would be a code violation. Are they all along a side? I'd be concerned with a GloBrite providing enough light 18 feet away across the pool. I would not skimp on the lighting... VERY hard to change later... :)

mustbnuts: so glad someone else saw cupcakes in that line-up of gallon jugs filled with aa tea. I am going to pull a rifis on you: When I realized how mistaken I was I thought I mustbnuts! rifis: why are you asking my forgiveness? what did you do? I must have missed it? I apologized to Malcolm in case he thought I assumed he is old and you thought that was funny? No problem, I dont think you ever mean harm. I just did not want to be misunderstood. toolbelt: Now I realize where and why I came to call you a she. It was when I saw your gallon jugs of aa tea I thought they were cupcakes. With mindless stereotyping I though you must be a woman since you posted a picture of cupcakes that you must have baked. So many assumptions! Sorry!

Here are some pictures, the header is about a 10 foot span, two 2x8's with a 2x2 ledger, also no hangers at each end. The joists that rest on the ledger run about 11feet to the sill plate atop concrete basement walls. They are in good shape, but this 10 foot section has sagged almost 3/4", at the stair case here, there is a staircase above it on the first floor and the ends of this header section in the basement are supporting a section of the 2nd floor with no real support down at the basement. I have some lally columns so I wanted to raise it up a little at a time over a week or two and leave the columns in place at the ends of the span and that's where I started to think if I did that the joists here may be under enough stress to cause an issue since they are notched on the ledger. I might also see if I can slip in a triple joist hanger on the right and left ends of the header to affix them (with ledger) to the joists that span to to main steel beam. Don't think I can get one in place where the stair case starts but maybe it doesn't matter as much if a column is under it.

First, Walnutcreek, a lot of people have had difficulty with getting this KA opened, but if is sper easy — so easy that it might be what confuses some. I will try to include a link that is excellent and demonstrating this. But, for now, here is a simple narrative for putting on and removing the KitchenAid (KA) mini chopper: Leave the spindle and the blade out of this for now, and have the unit unplugged. With the chopper facing you, and with the handle to the right or in front of you I should say, set the bowl down on the unit with the handle at about the 4 or 5 o’clock position. You may have to swivel it around a bit to find the notched out area and you will hear it fall into place. When it has clicked into place (muffled, click, not a sharp click and you can sense it as well as hear it), turn the handle counter clockwise until the handle is it the 3 o’clock position. This position also will make a slight audible muffled click. For the cover, do this. In a similar way to the work bowl, put the cover on at about the same orientation so that the part of the cover (that black portion with the little thumb hollow) is out about the 4 o’clock or 5 o’clock position in relation to the top of the work bowl. Then, without pressing down on anything, gently rotate the top the cover counter clockwise until it is over the handle of the work bowl. You may hear a little bit of a click or a muffled clicking noise. It should now be in the proper place. The work-bowl and the cover must be in the proper alignment for the unit to turn on and work. The cover does not contain a switch, but lines up over a thin metal rod in the work-bowl that in over a switch in the body of the chopper. Depressing on the thumb hollow on the handle will mechanically depress the rod in the work-bowl that will then make contact with the switch in the body of the chopper. These parts need to fit together in a precise way for the chopper to turn on and to only turn on when the parts are aligned so that there are no injuries to the operator. To REMOVE the cover: without depressing the hollow thumb area, just give that area of the cover a little push forward so that is slides clockwise away from the work-bowl handle. Once it is clear of the work bowl handle, the cover can be removed. It’s very easy. Just understand how it must work (the logic of the mechanics), and remember to not apply any downward pressure to the cover at the thumb area when removing, turning it. Here is a good video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cBLE1rPUPk: