Canofworms - I have to run & will reply this aft or tomorrow, but for now will post something I copied... in case it helps another newbie like me: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,403815,00.html (A Lesson in Bathroom Lighting); excerpts: "Task Lighting Vanity lighting gets top consideration because these fixtures work the hardest to illuminate the head and face for grooming. The most common mistake people make is putting recessed ceiling fixtures directly over the mirror. These cast shadows on the face, making daily grooming rituals more difficult. Vertical fixtures or sconces mounted on either side of the mirror are best for casting an even light across the face. But given the size and positioning of some vanity mirrors, sidelights can be impractical (mounting them directly to the mirror is always an option, but at greater planning and cost). Only then do I suggest a fixture for over the mirror. It should be placed 75 to 80 inches above the floor and, like all vanity lighting, contain at least 150 watts ÂEideally spread over a fixture that's at least 24 inches long so that the light will wash evenly over the hair and face. The shower is a secondary area of task lighting. In smaller bathrooms, if the stall has a clear glass door, a dedicated fixture may not be necessary. Otherwise, I recommend a recessed light with a glass lens (plastic will yellow). Similar recessed fixtures work well over a freestanding tub or the toilet. " "Lighting the Vanity Right To eliminate shadows under the chin, eyes, and cheeks, fixtures should be mounted on either side of the vanity mirror (or on the mirror's surface, if it's large), 36 to 40 inches apart. The center of each fixture should be roughly at eye level, or about 66 inches above the floor. This will guarantee even illumination across the face for grooming...." "Choosing Bulbs A crisp white light tends to render skin tones most accurately. Halogen bulbs set the gold standard...." "Think Dimmers These are a lighting designer's best friend because they grant absolute control over the lighting, and thus the mood, of the room. In a very small space like a powder room, dimming the vanity fixtures might even provide all-in-one task, ambient, and accent lighting. Plus, dimmers conserve energy...." Here is a link that might be useful: A Lesson in Lighting - This Old House

I have the same issue. The problem with the over the cabinet lights (two or three) is they are not designed to protrude enough from the wall to provide direct light, in fact the cabinet will likely cause a shadow line. Our cabinets come out 4 - 4 1/2 inches. I have a three bulb light I like and am thinking of having someone make a box that will match the cabinets. The box would be the same depth, surface mount, wood, stain and design as the cabinets... Has anyone seen lights that are designed for a surface mount medicine cabinet that do not look like the cheap exposed bulb or florescent variety?

I am looking at the same RH cartwright as well. I would definately do the small for a 36" vanity. I'm doing a small for my son's bath and his vanity is 48". Part of it depends on how you will do your lights- scones to the side of the cabinet or fixture above. We are starting framing next week. The joists and subfloor on the first floor are in. FYI, RH will have a bath sale shortly after christmas and I plan to purchase the cabinets then. I'm trying to decide which size to do in the master. We have 2 vanites and each will be about 54-57". The big one sounds enormous, or maybe it feels wrong for that style of cabinet. Any opinions? Here is a link that might be useful: RH cartwright medicine cabinet

Hi Robin, It's probably possible, but it's tough to say exactly how to do it without being able to handle the thing in person. The one photograph on the RH website isn't sufficient to work from. What you need to keep in mind is that the hole in the wall that the cabinet fits into is, by nature, a bit oversized and rough around the edges. The face frame of the cabinet that's intended to be recessed probably extends well past the outside of the carcass box so that it can act as a flange that covers the rough gap between the cabinet and the wall material. The face frame of the cabinet that's meant to be surface-mounted is probably (very nearly) flush with the outside of the cabinet, so there's nothing there to cover the inevitable gap. You may come up with a novel way to skin this cat, but it could be risky and/or a real PITA if you don't have some experience with fairly finicky woodwork.