People like this floor to go with their Honey Oak cabinets. Vintage Honey Floor

First things first: make sure you can PURCHASE more of the Pergo. And then, just for fun, make sure this is the Pergo that is water RESISTANT. If it is NOT, then do not run this in the kitchen. And if you have it in a FULL bath (shower/tub) then I recommend you look at a different floor - in the next 5 years. So, now that you have established it IS the water resistant Pergo AND you can STILL PURCHASE the product, you can decide if the colour clash with your cabinets will be worth it. Traditionally grey toned wood (like the Pergo) does NOT look very happy with orange toned wood (like oak cabinets finished in an oil based finish commonly referred to as "honey oak"). This clash can be reduced by working with a DARK GRAY counter top (a counter that is SPECIFICALLY chosen to match the Pergo). So....that brings us the the next question: what is your counter top? And then we move to "When do you want to renovate the kitchen?" If you have a kitchen renovation in your future (next 7 years or less) then you will want to hold off on any further decisions. When looking at new kitchen flooring, people find out very quickly how much they want a new kitchen. And by the time they get to renovating the kitchen, they either have to rip out the flooring (because they are changing the foot print) or they feel STUCK with a floor colour that dictates their colour scheme...and thereby feel cheated in someway because their floor doesn't let them chose the kitchen of their dreams. Whew. So much to be decided. All for a floor that probably won't work with the current cabinets/counters. Of course I could be wrong...especially if you have a stunning gray soap stone counter top. That would look STUNNING with the Pergo. But first, photos of what exists...just to be sure.

I would love to see a lovely "white washed" oak looking vinyl in this space. The teal counter tops should be able to pull together the "wood" tones of the cabinets and the "soft grayish" tones of a white wash. Something like this is an example of what I'm thinking of: https://www.armstrongflooring.com/residential/en-ca/vinyl-flooring/luxury-vinyl-tile/luxe-plank-with-fastak-install/item/A6716.html If you can find the right vinyl plank, you should be able to get this to run throughout the space (including bathrooms, entrances and utility rooms). If you cannot find one that works nicely with the counters, I would suggest you leave the kitchen floor in place (it is the PERFECT match to the counters...you won't find anything better) and replace the carpets with a wood-toned vinyl. Now...just for fun, these homes are often built with "carpet" in mind. That means the subfloor (whatever it is...) if possibly the lowest of the low in terms of quality. That means it is often wavy or as far away from flat as you can get. Again, this is always the case...but it happens so often that you need to ASSUME there is a problem before you rip out the carpet. Once the carpet is gone, you will need to have the flatness and the subfloor SURFACE (the material that is sitting underneath the pad) assessed for vinyl. If you FLOAT the vinyl, then you only need to deal with "flatness". If you GLUE the vinyl then you have to deal with the type of MATERIAL as well. And that's where the headaches begin. Many times there is fibre board or luan sitting under carpet in a trailer (regardless of how well built it is). Both of these materials are "OK" underneath a floating floor, but they often have to come out if you want to glue down. And then the "flatness" has to be dealt with. Vinyl HATES wonky subfloors. And I mean HATES it. The subfloor has to be SMOOTH (vinyl telegraphs things like staples, staple holes, seams, etc. to the surface). And to get fibre board or luan smooth is a nightmare. They don't like "patch" material. Again, this could mean they need to come out and be replaced with something that can handle patch, etc. Please be prepared for some ++prep costs to deal with whatever is underneath that carpet. Whomsoever is doing the work for you will need to WALK INTO your home and pull back the carpet BEFORE they offer a quote. And the quote should include a range for the prep. It should look like $1-$4/sf for subfloor preparation (the range will depend on where you are and how expensive it is to hire local labour).

I am having the same dilemna! We have to replace the flooring in our tiny vacation rental condo. I definitely want Coretec, but I'm having a hard time deciding between these two. I love the simplicity and elegance of the Calypso Oak, but worry that it will turn out too light. The Manila has such beautiful depth, but I'm afraid it might pull too much orange. All the photos of installed Calypso give the caveat that it is much lighter in reality. Too bad, because I love the way it looks in pics. I am also worried that Manila might be a bit busy. We bought our condo furnished and the sofa is staying. It is a queen sleeper, but it is patterned and in a darker color. Unfortunately I can't buy a box and try them both out since we have to have the installation done in a couple of weeks in between renters and we won't be there until the actual work begins. Also, the unit is pet friendly and I worry that paw prints might show up more easily in between housekeeping. Wish I could find something inbetween these two colors.