for every season ... double or triple your work load.. and the chances of failure ... go into the lawn... dig off grass ... about 3 foot circle ... dig new hole .... go dig up plant.. drag to hole.. throw in.. backfill and water properly for two years.. you will be all set ... you can build the bed next year ... personally ... if it has to be moved.. sooner and smaller is better than later and bigger ... root pruning stresses the plant.. and then you stress it again when you move it.. go with one stressing.. and just move the thing ... gently move aside the mulch or the soil surface.. and see if you can see the size of the pot when planted ... then double that size while digging ... does that make sense???? if it was a one foot across the top of the pot.. dig a 2 foot rootball ... i am impressed that you are realizing the potential problem.. 10 years before a monster eats the front of your house.. and then you have to just kill the thing .... in my zone 5 ... as soon as the soil thaws around 4/1 ... DO IT!!!! ... that will give it 6 to 8 weeks to get the roots moving.. before the first heat of summer .... you MUST keep it 'properly' watered for the rest of the summer ... water deeply .. and do not water again.. until your finger .. inserted to the second knuckle.. indicates the soil is dry or hot ... and mulch it throughly ... water in drought the second summer .... then they should be pretty much free range .... good luck ken

How high do they need to be? and how wide can they get? sounds like you have some good sun, so that increases your options greatly. Consider a broad-leafed evergreen for year-round screening: How about Portuguese laurel, Skip laurel, Carolina Cherry laurel 'compacta', Chindo vib. is great (I have one) and hoping it is hardy here!, 'Conoy vib.' is also evergreen but needs some shaping and takes time to get high, many upright, narrow hollies available (Blue Maid, Oakleaf, Virginia, Oakland, Fosters), Jap. ligustrum (will need some pruning - but gorgeous evergreen glossy leaves), Leatherleaf viburnum, or build a fence and plant clematis, cross vine, Carolina jessamine, etc.

Hmmm, possibly a Winterthur impostor!! You know, when those viburnums and some other plants were delivered last year I remember wondering out loud with the guy who delivered them if the labels might have gotten jumbled. I'd had a problem the year before with a boxwood or two that didn't really look like the ones I'd ordered (or like the other ones they were supposed to match up with in a hedge!) But the source insisted these were indeed the correct ones. I joked with them I was thinking about ordering a DNA test! I'm going to go right out and look at the remaining leaves on what I think is my Winterthur and see if I can make out any other shades. It's really quite a lovely shrub, though, and in every other respect looks pretty much like what I THOUGHT a Winterthur should look like, so I"m not too worried about it. But it's very interesting to hear what characteristics it really OUGHT to have. And I love hearing about everybody else's viburnums! And some really good information to print out for my very fat viburnum file, as always. Would a Burkwood be mostly yellow fall color? Maybe the labels really were mixed up, and the Winterthur is the one that had the shiny burgundy red leaves. (I'm not going to be too quick to blame the labels, though. Usually if there's a mix-up in my garden, my first bet is on ME as the mixed up one:)) I'm sure if any of you were here you could sort it out instantly! Like I said, though, they're all beautiful so it will be a pleasure to watch them next year and make certain of their identities. Thanks for the help! Stay warm, everybody, and happy Thanksgiving!

Several of the most common leaf spot fungal diseases can affect this shrub. These diseases are so common that they can be called ubiquitous, just waiting for an opportunity to infest a susceptible host. To prevent the spread of the diseases, avoid overhead watering, prune overhanging foliage to improve air circulation and sunlight penetration, clean up fallen plant debris, etc. Fungicides can be used successfully to gain control and good housekeeping practices can help prevent it from starting up again. Look up any university based fact sheet on viburnum diseases to read the details and see fungicide recommendations. Unless you change the environment, your plants will always have problems. Just a little bit of gardening will make a big difference.