Well, getting back to my tub... I just removed the old caulk (well, most of it; I'll tackle the final scrub later), and I noticed something that I'd forgotten since the last time doing this - not only is the gap variable in height (in some places, barely thicker than a few sheets of paper!), but there are also some sections where grout comes all the way down to the tub surface. Should I try to chip that stuff out? It looks like the last time I just applied the caulk (a very thin layer) right over it. Not sure if that's a problem. I also did not find any backer rod thinner than 3/8-inch, which I already have. The clerk suggested I might try using screen spline. Has anyone ever done this? Any reason it wouldn't work? If I do decide to do layers, just to fill some space, should I let them dry in between? I'm not actually sure how I'd get it in there in the areas that are small in height (way too small for the nozzle) but big in depth. Thanks to ALL of you for your advice.

Our contractor also just installed an acrylic tub for us and we have durock on the walls surrounding it. I can't really understand the context of the picture you provided. I am not a builder, but having just seen ours installed, I pretty much know what the contractor did. We have a concrete slab floor and the legs on the new tub were adjustable. The builder and his helper went thru great pains to make sure the tub was level. The manual said not to put concrete under the tub except maybe some around the legs. It was optional and we didn't do that. Then he glued the centre of the legs, where they adjust to sort of lock them in place so they won't change over time. Likely not necessary but just a precaution. He used 1 x 4 or a 1 x 2 (not sure) strapping behind the tub as per instructions just for the tub to sort of rest on. Then with the tub full of water, he used stainless steel screws to screw thru the holes in the flange along the edges of the tub into the studs in the wall. The durock was put on the wall just to the top of the flange. Our finished solid surface (or tile) will be put on it once waterproofed with redgard and will hang over the flange but not touching the tub. That little space will have silicone caulking to seal it. Ours doesn't have a removable apron or any flange on the side so I am not sure which part you are showing in your photo. What good would putting a screw above the flange do?? I think you should fire this guy and find someone else to carry on with the install. Editing: I just Googled your tub style so I think I see what that piece of flange is. Since it is on the side and outside the rim of the tub, it is likely safe from much water. I would likely fit in a small piece of durock if you can and when it is all taped and waterproofed it should be good. Hopefully some of the experts will weigh in but if there are holes in the flange, they need screws in them. Your manual should explain the proper way to install it.

I'm in the middle of a remodel so I don't have personal experience . . . yet. But, I did a fair amount of research, and I bought this bath drain/overflow which is being installed. http://mountainplumbing.com/catalog/product/mountain-plumbing/Polypropylene-Cable-Operated-Bath-Waste-and-Overflow-Drain-Complete-Kit-22/3158 I hope it'll help strike a happy balance between a not too high tub and a deeper soak. Essentially, this has a plastic disk that can be installed in such a way as to give the bather extra soaking depth. According to the website: Immerse Feature The new Mountain Plumbing "Immerse" features allows you to have the most luxurious bathing experience you've ever had! It now comes standard on all Mountain Plumbing Products cable drains, allowing you to indulge in a more lavish bathing experience. The expertly engineered overflow has been developed for your tub to accommodate a near additional 2 inches of water. To fully take advantage of the immerse feature, simply fill your tub to the height you have been familiar with. Once seated and relaxed in your tub, the amount of displaced water will rise by approximately 2 inches and remain at this level. This additional water depth added to your tub will allow for you to be fully submerged, covering up your bare shoulders, and resulting in a more luxurious bath. It is the ultimate in getting the most of your bathtub.

You would think there would be a definitive guide on freestanding tubs and LVP since both have been such popular options for years now. I am never satisfied with the answers. You have washer and dryers on LVP and heavy furniture so why not a tub? The vinyl freestanding tubs are light and need to be secured. If you silicone the tub to LVP will this be an issue? IDK because no authorities I have found have commented on it. I've seen YouTube videos where contractors have used LVP with a freestanding tub, but without follow-up or reference to manufacturer suggestions, who knows how that held up over time. The Floor and Decor rep assured me water won't get between the seams (for what that's worth). If that's true, caulking the edges seems like a pretty good way to go. Maybe adding some liquid waterproofing membrane on the subfloor around the tub would be a good precaution. Where is the definitive guide to this? If anyone has a good source please chime in.