Both an oil rub like Danish oil and oil-containing varnishes like Waterlox or solvent-based clear coats will yellow your wood, though the mechanisms are a little different. Those finishes with a high oil component go on with an orange to yellow tint depending if they are based on linseed or tung oil. The solvent-based clear coats may go on clear and then take a few years to yellow. If you want a bleached, Scandanavian-style wood, you'll definitely need a waterborne finish as well as some bleaching prior to the top coats. Some woods respond better to the process than others. White oak is a popular base wood for a bleached look.

Actually, I think you might be fine to move forward with your final 2 coats of Loba 2K Supra AT (for 3 coats total). One of the exceptions to this is if you need something to prevent side bonding with your wood. Look up side bonding and then figure out if you think it is going to be a problem for you in your climate. That's the main thing that the WS EasyPrime prevents is side bonding; in addition, it brings out a rich wood color and helps the first coat of Supra AT to go on more evenly. If you like the color that you have now and side bonding is not a huge concern, then you would probably be better off to move forward rather than trying to sand that floor down again as that could create some brand new issues for you. It's probably not the end of the world that you skipped the hardener on the first coat. If anything, it might make the upper two layers a little more prone to impact, but this coating has a lot of flex built into it, and if you can live with the risk, it might be acceptable for your application. If this is an expensive home with a heavy grand piano or big dogs with claws, then reconsider leaving that first coat unhardened. Also, if this is an area where heavy appliances will be moved or set, I would also consider a re-do. Although I've worked a lot with WS EasyPrime and Loba 2K Supra AT, I'm not a professional, and Loba has an excellent customer service department, at least in the USA where I have utilized it, so if you are able to call and talk to a company representative, that would be the best option for professional advice on your situation. You may find it interesting to know that Loba makes a product called 2K InvisibleProtect AT which is designed to be used alone, without primer, in order to keep the wood as natural a color as possible. Some people have had issues trying to apply InvisibleProtect AT without a primer first, but it can be done. The 2K Supra AT is not usually used for this because it does impart more of a darkening effect than the InvisibleProtect AT--therefore primer doesn't take away from the final effect when Supra AT is used, and there are benefits to primer (side bonding prevention mainly), so it is standard procedure to use the WS EasyPrime under Supra AT. Note that Supra AT is overall more durable than InvisibleProtect AT, though both are outstanding finishes.

If using pink blocker would this still be considered raw if using Ciranova invisible finish? Or would raw only be sanding and applying invisible finish? Which of Ciranova 3 finishes would be the most durable? Also, Bona natural seal has a slight bit of white to it, would it be better to go Bona classic seal followed by two coats HD Traffic just in case there is still a bit of red left. Is Bona HD traffic matte considered invisible? Also two coats of pink blocker? Does this mean reactive stains are different? I did not think you could use two coats of stain? I’m sorry for all the questions. Thank you for your response!

Thank you so much! I appreciate the expert advice. I'm definitely not an expert! I think I used the wrong term earlier - when I said 'raw'. What I meant is that that ideally the colour looks like natural wood, as close to white oak as possible - vs. something that turns pink, yellow or orange. We do want some shine, and are leaning toward a satin finish. So, in that case, would you still recommend Loba invisible? Concerned about durability, as we don't want to be fretting about the floors. These floors are rather yellow, which is why I asked about the UV blocker or stain. Edited to add: we also have the option of delaying this work and waiting until someone that can do both Bona and Loba is available. So, if Bona might be a better option, that's something we can consider. Quite possible I'm overthinking this ;)