As part of my rose care routine, I plan to use two dormant sprays, but only once when applying chemical fungicides. These will help protect against fungal diseases and overwintering pests:

• Bonide Mancozeb Flowable with Zinc Fungicide – a broad-spectrum fungicide that helps prevent common rose diseases.
• Bonide All Seasons Horticultural & Dormant Spray Oil – an effective treatment for smothering overwintering insects, their eggs, and fungal spores.

In addition to disease prevention, I will also apply Chlorantraniliprole to control midges. I prefer this insecticide over Imidacloprid because it is less invasive while still providing strong protection against pests.

Once pruning is completed, I will nourish my roses with alfalfa tea, which provides essential nutrients and growth stimulants. Two weeks later, I will follow up with a complex fertilizer, specifically Magic Rose Mix, to promote healthy, vigorous growth and abundant blooms throughout the season.

“ … insecticide … it is less invasive …”

??

Chlorantranilipole is a new one to me, Elena. I will study up on it.

On spring pruning...once dead and damaged canes, as well as crossing canes are addressed, I try to remind myself to go back and prune back minimally to where the remaining cane is at least the thickness of the average pencil, no thinner than that allowed to remain....unless it's a mini, miniflora, Drift type, etc.,.

Happy spring workout, y'all. Some of us more rotund post-protohumans will be aching a lot by Mother's Day. Keep your powder dry, and only shoot (spray), when you see the fright in their eyes.

Moses likes roses. Midge and Black Spot, my old antagonists, I'm itching to show you what's coming your way! Surprise me!

Moses, using Chlorantraniliprole was a recommendation from a very experienced rosarian. It is less toxic to bees and works best in very wet soil. Watering after application is necessary for optimal effectiveness. I am applying Scotts GrubEx1.

@Diane Brakefield Your ’blabbering’ is chock-full of novel and useful information for me so please keep on!! I’m happy to hear snaps reseed themselves because I bought a bunch of cool new varieties from Eden bros. They also introduced a new foxglove, Dalmatian peach, that is supposed to flower the first year, fingers crossed. Also good to hear that I can just scatter alyssum, that’s my favorite kind of ’planting’ 😝. I also bought the double-flowered hollyhock seeds and plan to sow them soon. We have rain forcasted for the next seven days here in the Bay Area so I’m hoping to get all my soil amendments/builder spread on my beds tomorrow, and plant once the rain has loosened things up a bit.

@elenazone6 I also bought the bonide horticultural oil but am waffling on whether or not to use it on top of the sulfur & copper. They have different indications so I think I might, spacing each application a week apart. Or I’ll forget, that’s equally as likely 🤷🏽‍♀️.

SD Shine, you are right! Its recommended to apply Mancozeb first and wait at least 7-10 days before applying horticultural oil.

I spray Neem in winter or very early spring sometimes. I only do it on stems and leaves. I helps get rid of scale which can be a problem here. All my tree frogs are still hibernating and the bees and butterflies arent really very active right now. The bees only visit flowers and don't mess with the leaves except for the leaf cutter bees which avoid the Neem sprayed leaves. They seem to like certain rose leaves so I try not to spray those. My citrus have more scale issues than the roses. Its mainly the stems, trunks that are affected.

Alcohol on a cotton ball or qtip will also help remove scale. There are baby scale underneath the adults so its best to remove the adult carcasses to get rid of the babies/eggs etc.

Great topic !!

I have never dormant sprayed , only bc I always forget how bad spring can be and wish I had but it’s too late lol

Some years I get mildew on a few roses and rust . But usually it goes away .. my friend told me about spraying mildew with milk / water and that helped too .

I do need to put down slug and snail bait .you wouldn’t believe the amount of snails I have!! It’s so much . I try not to use insecticides bc I do want the birds to help but they simply don’t do enough control . And I’m kinda my own island here in the garden sense . Everyone around me is a mow and blow , foundation hedge situation. So I don’t get many birds here to help .

I did put down rose tone before the last rain but I need to osmocote my pots .

I have a bag of alfalfa pellets in the garage. I don’t want to make tea .. can I grind up the pellets and just sprinkling it on ? I don’t feel like dealing with the tea . But maybe I will lol

I still have to prune Bathsheba ( a big deal which will fill my whole green can )and all my pots .

And fresh mulch is way overdue !!

But after saying all that . Today I plan on browsing a nursery 😂

I put down Allysum seeds when we first moved here , bulk from American meadows probably. Whatever variety it is , it has spread like crazy . Sometimes I enjoy the look and other times I don’t . I never see pollinators at it . But it’s a nice filler .

Lily, alfalfa pellets provide a slow-release effect but can attract animals, whereas alfalfa tea works faster but requires preparation. I'm planning to use tea to give my roses a boost after winter, at least. Last year, I was amazed by how many new buds appeared on my short-pruned bushes after applying alfalfa tea early in the season.

My spring rose garden routine:

• check to see if R. hugonis and R. primula have buds yet
• do some pruning
• look at Darlow's Enigma, and decide to put off pruning it until tomorrow
• look at Quadra, decide I can't do anything to it without the loppers
• do some weeding
• check to see if R. hugonis and R. primula have buds yet
• see what perennials should be moved and/or divided
• do some more pruning
• check to see if R. hugonis and R. primula have flowers yet
• look at perennials that could be divided
• do a happy dance since R. hugonis and R. primula have flowers

mad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY) , HA-HA!

I’m starting my spring routine by changing our usual walking path with the dog. In the park, there’s wild forsythia, which started blooming about 10 days earlier than the ones in garden. As soon as I spot the first yellow bud, I’m ready to dive into working with my roses!

Diane, those frilly pink hollyhocks are so cute & girly♡ I was looking through my seeds and found an envelope with seeds from my grandmother that said "Hollyhocks". She has passed on. Its from 2016! Do you know how long hollyhock seeds remain viable?

I would try the seeds ,Sultry.

Sultry, you can try the seeds, but in your more humid climate they may not last as long in storage. Here, seeds last forever, it seems like. If you want hocks that are semi double and double, bloom the first year and reseed well, try the Carnival Series of hocks. Diane

I try to keep my spring routine as simple as possible. I actually start in the middle of February. It is known as clean-up time. I lightly rake out all the surface mulch and remove all the winter weeds. The first part of March I plant any new roses and water down the beds real good. The middle of March I prune and put down Espoma Plant Tone covering the entire beds and water it in good. After the Plant Tone is watered in good, then I mulch. This year I'm going back to pine needles. I've tried every kind of mulch I can get my hands on and pine needles work best for me and the garden. The beds up next to the house get large pine bark nuggets. The "work" part is done. The middle of April I will put down some more Plant Tone.

@SD Shine -Z10a Bay Area, When mixing oil and sulfur1 can experience leaf drop. I use this to my advantage mixing them both In the spring To avoid having to hand pull off my leaves. I do like to start with leafless canes and this Saves me some labor. I didn't make this up So don't think me for it. LOL! I would like to hear if anyone has a source or DIY from making these lime sulfur mixture

Lily finch, You can make the tea in just a small 5 gallon bucket o Order a smaller container As opposed to a big huge trash can.r . I apply it very dilute. As you may recall I mulch mine with Alfalfa straw But we get a lot of rain

Moses:

I certainly did not envision you as rotund.

@Vaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley see, these are the pro-tips I come here for! I already pruned and defoliated but now I know better for next year.

@elenazone6 Thank you for the confirmation. I knew I read to separate treatments by a week *some*where at *some*point but having a reference gives me confidence.

Re: alfalfa, I use the EB Stone alfalfa meal and it’s much faster-acting than pellets, but stupidly expensive compared to what you can get at a feed store. It is super easy to mix into the soil though.

“Chlorantranophile is a new one to me, Elena. I will study up on it.”

https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/6391926/triazicide-or-ortho-bug-clear-lawn-insect-killer-for-rose-midge-fly#n=4

Every year In Feb I usually put down some soil amendments like cow manure or worm castings then mulch over . This year I am lazy so will just put Alfalfa meal then mulch . Also I start spraying biweekly at this time .

Rifis, 'rotund,' is the persona perceived, but blithe is the perception of the enlightened pneuma. It could be observed that fatties will 'huff-&-puff,' their way through renewed gardening chores this coming spring due to a winter of relative inactivity. Such may be the case for some of us.

Moses.

Rifis, I forgot about Chlorantraniliprone being the killing ingredient in GrubX, which bag of I still have, unopened, because of its making the soil/mulch zone a relatively dead zone. Plus, the fumes of the Grub X are considerable, and can be smelled for weeks after an application is made, as I have found to be the case at a local public rose garden. The moisture level at soil/mulch level must be kept reasonably high to insure effectiveness at optimal levels, thus exacerbating the issue.

Moses

As Ada Limón’s term nears its end, the Librarian of Congress is hereby advised to consider Moses.

Moses, if you still consider.

Chlorantraniliprole is an insecticide that belongs to the diamide chemical class. It is known for its selective action against certain pests, especially those that affect crops, turf, and ornamental plants. Here's a comprehensive breakdown of this insecticide:

1. Chemical Properties:

• Chemical Name: 3-bromo-N-[3-chloro-2-pyridyl]-1-(3-chloro-2-pyridyl)-1H-pyrazole-5-carboxamide
• Molecular Formula: C18H14Cl2N4O2
• Appearance: It is typically a white to off-white crystalline solid.
• Mode of Action: Chlorantraniliprole works by disrupting the insect's ryanodine receptors, which control calcium ion release within cells. This disruption leads to muscle paralysis, preventing the insect from feeding, and eventually causes its death. It specifically targets insects' muscle and nerve function, making it highly toxic to them but relatively safe to humans, animals, and beneficial insects like bees and ladybugs.

2. Pest Control:

• Target Pests: Chlorantraniliprole is primarily effective against pests such as caterpillars, beetles, ants, and other insect larvae. It is widely used in agriculture to protect crops from a variety of pests, particularly those that feed on leaves and stems.
• Crops Affected: Commonly used on a variety of crops, including:
  • Vegetables (e.g., tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers)
  • Fruit trees (e.g., apples, citrus)
  • Corn
  • Soybeans
  • Ornamentals and turfgrass
• Effectiveness: It provides long-lasting residual control, often requiring fewer applications compared to other insecticides. Its systemic action ensures that treated plants remain protected even if pests move into the plant later.

3. Application Methods:

• Application Type: Chlorantraniliprole can be applied as foliar sprays, soil treatments, and through seed treatments. It is often applied via sprayers, drench, or irrigation systems depending on the crop and pest.
• Systemic Action: When applied to the soil or leaves, it is absorbed by the plant and moves through the vascular system, making the entire plant toxic to pests.
• Timing: It is most effective when pests are in their early developmental stages, particularly during larval or juvenile stages.

4. Safety and Toxicity:

• Human and Animal Safety: Chlorantraniliprole has a relatively low toxicity to humans and animals, classified as "low toxicity" for mammals. It is also not considered a significant threat to pollinators, although care should still be taken to avoid exposure during flowering periods.
• Environmental Impact: It is considered to have a low environmental impact compared to many older chemical insecticides. It has low toxicity to birds, mammals, and aquatic life, though caution is advised near water sources.
• Toxicity to Non-Target Organisms: While it is safe for many beneficial insects like ladybugs and bees, it can be toxic to certain other species, particularly those that feed on the plants it protects.

5. Regulatory Status:

• Approval and Registration: Chlorantraniliprole is registered for use in various countries, including the U.S. (EPA registered), Europe, and many other regions. However, the specific approval status may vary by country, and its usage is regulated to prevent misuse or over-application.
• Residue Limits: There are established Maximum Residue Limits (MRLs) for chlorantraniliprole on various crops. These are set to ensure that levels of the pesticide in food products remain within safe limits.

6. Advantages:

• Selective Toxicity: Chlorantraniliprole is highly selective for pests, meaning it has minimal impact on beneficial insects when used properly.
• Low Resistance Development: It is less likely to lead to pest resistance compared to other insecticides, due to its novel mode of action.
• Effective Across Multiple Crop Types: It is versatile in terms of application to various crops, both food crops and ornamental plants.
• Long Residual Effect: Provides long-lasting protection from pests, reducing the frequency of applications needed.

7. Disadvantages:

• Limited Effectiveness on Some Pests: It may not be effective against all types of insect pests. Certain species of insects may have resistance or reduced susceptibility.
• Non-Specific Action in Some Cases: Though it is selective, it may still affect certain beneficial insect species, especially if overused or improperly applied.
• Environmental Considerations: Care must be taken to avoid excessive runoff into water bodies, where it could potentially harm aquatic organisms.

8. Market Availability:

• Chlorantraniliprole is sold under various brand names, depending on the manufacturer and formulation, including Coragen and Altacor, which are popular in agricultural markets.

9. Resistance Management:

• As with any pesticide, resistance management strategies are important. Using it in rotation with other insecticides that have different modes of action can help prevent resistance development in pest populations.

10. Alternatives:

• Other insecticides with different modes of action (e.g., pyrethroids, organophosphates) can be used as alternatives when pest resistance to chlorantraniliprole becomes a concern.

In summary, chlorantraniliprole is a highly effective insecticide with a novel mode of action that provides strong control over a wide range of pests while being relatively safe for humans, animals, and the environment. It is an important tool in integrated pest management programs and is gaining popularity in both commercial agriculture and home gardening.

Lilyfinch, slugs and snails supposedly can be repelled by using copper, and I don't mean the spray,I mean like the copper pipes. I bought a roll of tape made of copper on Amazon, and have been meaning to try it. For example, take a large empty tuna can and remove the bottom. Cover the outside with tape, and place the coated can ring over the plant you wish to proect. I think it's worth a try, because some years ago I found an old piece of copper tube. I cut it into half-circles and made rings around delphiniums, and none were eaten. Did the copper actually repel them, or was it luck?

Copper apparently gives the little devils a small electric buzz they don't like. Diane

Thanks Diane & Sheila I will sow them behind an outbuilding and see what happens.

If anyone make alfalfa tea, whatever you do, do NOT forget about it and leave it for 6 mos lol. I had some in a 5 gal bucket with a lid last year. By the time I opened it, it reeked just like a sewer..not even like earthy cow manure or anything. Exactly like strong human sewage! I went ahead & masked, gloved up, & dumped it on the plants and almost retched a few times.

They really loved it but I'm not doing that again!

I have read that alfalfa tea reeks if kept past its sell by date. I refuse to put myself through making disgusting concoctions for the plants I grow, and the plants seem to love what I put down for them, so I'm not changing. Gads, I'm also glad I don't have to use the insecticides some of you use against midge, or all the fungicides you use against powdery mildew. I would not garden if that were the case. I have read a number of times that much of powdery mildew is brought on by plant stress due to inadequate water for the plants. I know years ago, this seemed to be true for some of my perennials, and when a better watering system was available to me, this problem disappeared. I'm thinking of asters, scabiosa, and monarda, which seems to be susceptible to PM under the best of conditions. Diane

I use alfalfa pellets from the feed store - I use them as an additive for some of my horses in their feed - they love it. I made tea years ago. Now I just add the pellets to the hole I plant my roses in or spread them on top and let the rain and watering disintegrate them. Was wondering if the tea is more effective than this?

Judith

My Alfalfa tea smells like sewage if I leave it brewing a week only , in our hot weather . I have started brewing it only for 3 days or till I see foam on the top . Works the same on roses .

The tea works immediately , while the pellets/meal take time .

Agree with pink rose, the alfalfa tea reeks to high heaven even after 5 days. I still think it's worth it, but I stopped making it a number of years ago. I currently use combos that contain alfalfa meal, and apply to the soil surface, and they work well. But IMNSHO, nothing beats homemade alfalfa tea for effectiveness :-D

I do throw the left over alfalfa pellets from our goats every morning into the flowerbeds or right into pots. Its usually not much but I suppose it adds up. The chickens want nothing to do with alfalfa pellets so they leave them alone. They are small pellets and mush down immediately when they get watered in. They have a larger alfalfa pellet for horses that stays hard longer. We usually have baby goats so I buy the smaller pellets. I make tea from compost or alfalfa from time to time. I guess I dont really need to.

Elina,

Your write up on Chlorantraniliprone is monumental! Thank you. I can see its application as a soil drench/soil fumigant/contact insecticide as being effective against just fallen nymph stage rose midge flies, and emerging adults. Subduing rose midge fly populations by any means is good. However, depending on a Chlorantraniliprone substrate treatment alone does not address the adult rose midge flies that infest your roses laying their eggs, coming from neighbor's infested rose beds, or the nymph/cocoon stage, yet to be adults that did not drop to ground level, but stayed at the growing tip, wedged/cemented there by their silken cocoon threads..

It appears to me that I really must address the treatment of vulnerable growing tips. Spraying with an effective systemic, one containing a chemical such as Imidacloprid, and doing so on a regular basis to keep the absorbed systemic insecticide at optimal lethal levels as the growing rose tip continues ggrowinggrowin the garden pea sized stage of development. If Chlorantraniliprone was systemic it would be salvatory. However, the waxy, slippery, ever extending nature of vulnerable rose growing tips doesu

It appears to me that I really must address the treatment of vulnerable growing tips. Spraying with an effective systemic, one containing a chemical such as Imidacloprid, and doing so on a regular basis to keep the absorbed systemic insecticide at optimal lethal levels as the growing rose tip continues ggrowinggrowin the garden pea sized stage of development. If Chlorantraniliprone was systemic it would be salvatory. However, the waxy, slippery, ever extending nature of vulnerable rose growing tips doesn't seem it will allow Chlorantraniliprone to kill effectively since it may not adhere and penetrate entirely into the interior folds of a growing tip being a contact, feedant insecticide, and not systemic insecticide.

It appears to me that I really must address the treatment of vulnerable growing tips. Spraying with an effective systemic, one containing a chemical such as Imidacloprid, and doing so on a regular basis to keep the absorbed systemic insecticide at optimal lethal levels as the growing rose tip continues growing to the invulnerable garden pea sized stage of development. I

If Chlorantraniliprone was systemic it would be salvatory. However, the waxy, slippery, ever extending nature of vulnerable rose growing tips doesn't seem it will allow Chlorantraniliprone to kill effectively since it may not adhere and penetrate entirely into the interior folds of a growing tip iontact, feedant insecticide, and not systemic insecticide.

It appears to me that I really must address the treatment of vulnerable growing tips. Spraying with an effective systemic, one containing a chemical such as Imidacloprid, and doing so on a regular basis to keep the absorbed systemic insecticide at optimal lethal levels as the growing rose tip continues growing to the invulnerablethgarden pea sized stage of development. If Chlorantraniliprone was systemic it would be salvatory. However, the waxy, slippery, ever extending nature of vulnerable rose growing tips doesn't seem it will allow Chlorantraniliprone to kill effectively since it may not adhere and penetrate entirely into the interior folds of a growing tip iontact, feedant insecticide, and not systemic insecticide.tip iontact, feedant insecticide, and not systemic insecticide.

Simply put, I know Imidacloprid works. My apprehension at Chlorantraniliprone being as dependable makes me hesitant to try it. Experimenting with it on a trial basis is something I will leave to the university/manufacturer horticultural establishments.

Moses, I can't take credit for AI; I wasn't sure how comfortable you are with these tools.

P.S. I am very sensitive to odors but don’t recall any bad smell from Chlorantraniliprole.

Does the systemic not migrate to the growing tips?

Chlorantraniliprole is not a systemic insecticide.

Moses, see p.31 from academic source.

https://mastergardener.osu.edu/sites/mgv/files/imce/RosePests_Shetlar2021.pdf

I’ve outlined the first step in fighting midges early this spring. I plan to use blue sticky sheets and apply Pyrethrin as needed. I used it last season with some success.

P.S. Folks from other areas reported that applying Pyrethrin every 3–5 days helped them manage midges—maybe not completely, but enough to keep them under control for the season.

I second vaporvac’s question/statement.

elena, are you confident that “Chlorantraniliprole is not a systemic insecticide.”?

Note Section 6.1, as well as the preamble to the Master Label:

https://www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/ppls/000100-01489-20240111.pdf

To my understanding, Chlorantraniliprole is highly effective against insect larvae, including midge larvae, by disrupting their muscle function when used as a drench insecticide. However, it is less effective systemically against adult midges.

This is why I am planning to use Pyrethrin as contact insecticide.

Oh, and in Section 7.2.3, note the details about the need for the insecticide to be placed close to the root flare of the shrub (rose) with sufficient solution volume to reach the root zone for optimal systemic uptake. And caution that the translocation through the plant might require 60 days or longer.

I wonder if Moses’ bad experience with the Bonide (I recollect) product a few years ago wasn’t explained by a similar long delay (ie: product applied too late). It wasn’t dinotefuran. Did it go down in May, Moses?

Chlorantraniliprole should be applied as soon as the buds swell and show baby leaves. I highly recommend also using blue sticky sheets, placing them about 10 inches above ground level. The first time I did this, I was shocked by how many adult midges were caught, with no other insects.

Elena and y'all,

Forgive the mishmashmishmash post aboveabove. Houzz,is,going,butberserk again!

Moses

“However, it is less effective systemically against adult midges”.

Less effective systemically? I’d be surprised to learn it has ANY effect whatsoever, systemically, against adults.

But that’s largely immaterial, as you know.

Same goes for neonic’s lack of systemic effect against adult midges.

rifis, two seasons ago, I faced severe midge damage in my rose garden, with no prior knowledge of them. After extensive learning and a month of battling, my garden eventually returned to normal. Last year, I didn’t have an initial outbreak and managed to keep their numbers minimal later on.

My reason for bringing up midges again and again is to help Moses gain control over the problem, not to engage in a debate or meet your standards of absolute accuracy or provide random tests and references. If you or others are interested, it's up to you to fact-check what I say.

This will likely be my final direct exchange with you. Consider yourself ignored. Thank you.

Vapor,

A foliar sprayed systemic insecticide infiltrates the tissue it comes in contact with only. As a growing tip expands the extended tissue is not infiltrated from previously sprayed tissue. The extended growth is therefore unprotected. In other words a systemic foliage spray does not trans-locate to plant parts that did not come into direct contact with the systemic spray.

Think of it as putting a good curative lotion on your dry, itchy, reddened right elbow, and expecting your left, equally afflicted elbow to benefit from the right elbow's treatment without it being treated also.

Regarding liquid systemic soil drenches/dry granules applied to the soil, there is supposed uptake of the systemic insecticide through the plants roots. This systemic insecticide then continuously travels to the plant's new/extended growth, protecting the entire plant for the duration of the label listed time period.

My one and only attempt at following this method through a soil drench on my roses in 2021(?), was a complete failure. However, I cannot say that others will not experience satisfactory control with systemic insecticide soil drenches.

I believe I applied it in early May, exactly according to the directions on the label...perhaps even more generously. The roses essentially were so heavily rose midge fly infested from spring to fall that it could make a grown man cry from anguish....no appreciable flowering from a pitifully meagre bloom, midge damage evidence everywhere, spring flush, to nothing but green leaves all season long thereafter. Lesson learned!

Moses

elena, here is my take:

You wrote “Chlorantraniliprole is not a systemic insecticide”. That was not my impression, having read comments by Mike on Dave’s current site. I looked at the link you provided to Moses to support your statement, but nowhere in Dr. Shetlar’s slide presentation did I see any support for your statement.

So I then looked at Syngenta’s January 2024 filing with the EPA regarding chlorantraniliprole. Information in that letter flatly contradicted your statement. I provided a link to that letter, as well as excerpts from it.

In response, you pointed out that it is “… less effective systemically against adult midges”. It’s immaterial that neither chlorantraniliprole nor imidacloprid is active systemically against the fly. I mentioned that this attempt at prestidigitation did nothing to alter the fact that chlorantraniliprole is considered no less an active agent, systemically, against rose midge than is imidacloprid.

This prompted you to refer to my “…standards of absolute accuracy”, implying they were unacceptably high.

My first reaction was: ?? This is out of left field. I am not a budding Associate Editor at NEJM.

And then: The lady doth protest too much, methinks.

IF I had written something undeniably false concerning an important rose matter, and you provided irrefutable evidence I was wrong, and in response I said you were nitpicking, or cherry-picking the facts you presented, or had unacceptably high standards of absolute accuracy - what would you think?

My statement that “chlorantraniliprole is not a systemic insecticide” is based on its mode of action and how it behaves in plants compared to classic systemic insecticides like imidacloprid. While chlorantraniliprole has some limited systemic movement, it is generally categorized as a translaminar or locally systemic insecticide rather than one that moves extensively through a plant’s vascular system.

I reviewed the Syngenta EPA filing you referenced. While it describes some systemic activity, its efficacy in this regard is limited compared to true systemic insecticides. Dr. Shetlar’s materials and other entomological sources reinforce this distinction. The key point is that chlorantraniliprole is not absorbed and transported throughout a plant in the same way as imidacloprid, which directly influences its effectiveness against certain pests.

Regarding our discussion on rose midge, my mention of systemic effectiveness against adult midges was not meant as an evasion but as an important clarification. Since the main question is how these insecticides work against specific pests, differentiating their systemic properties is relevant.

Well, this has certainly been an enlightening exchange. Now I’m definitely done with this discussion. Best of luck with your research!

My first knowing use of AI!

AI OverviewLearn moreA drench insecticide is a liquid chemical that's poured around a plant's roots to control pests. The chemicals are absorbed by the roots and then move throughout the plant.

OMG! I am not ready yet!!!

I second that Elena!