All I have ever seen for over the washer are 12 in deep. You can always go to lowes or another cabinet installation company and have custom cabinets built for your room. It would mean however in my humble opinion a lot of extra expense for a lot of wasted space that you could resolve with an inexpensive step stool and a set of standard cabinets. Most of the time your most used items would be within reach without step on the bottom shelves. My wife is only about your height and doesnt have to stand on her toes or jump up to get things out of our cabinets. With the cabinets at 12 inches the lid of the washer should have room to open if your machines arent flat agaist the wall. Otherwise with deep cabinets the extra clearance will be required and your cablinets will be possibly too high even if they stuck out far enough to bang your head on them while loading and unloading your washer. If you have 10 ft ceilings and stand 6 foot tall all would be AOK

Bottom line: You will need 25.5" for each wall cabinet run (24" cabinet + 1.5" counter overhang)...since you already have the appliances (including DOs) you're locked in to that depth on both sides if you put them in the approx locations in your original layout. You need a minimum of 36", preferably 42" for each aisle b/w counters...whether b/w wall runs or island & wall run. For a galley (i.e., no island), you really should have a 48" aisle since all the traffic + kitchen work will happen in one space. So... No island, the minimum width of the kitchen should be: .....Minimum aisle and no traffic: 25.5" + 36" + 25.5" = 87" (7'3") .....For ideal aisle of 48" or Traffic b/w island & one run of cabinets: + 12" = 99" (8'3") Island w/24" cabinet only (no seating): .....Minimum aisle and no traffic: 25.5" + 36" + 28" + 36" + 25.5" = 151" (12'7") .....For one ideal aisle of 42" or Traffic b/w island & one run of cabinets: + 6" = 157" (13'1") .....For two ideal aisles of 42" or Traffic b/w island & one or two runs of cabinets: + 6" + 6" = 163" (13'7") Island w/18" cabinet only (no seating): .....Minimum aisle and no traffic: 25.5" + 36" + 22" + 36" + 25.5" = 145" (12'1") .....For one ideal aisle of 42" or Traffic b/w island & one run of cabinets: + 6"" = 151" (12'7") .....For two ideal aisles of 42" or Traffic b/w island & one or two runs of cabinets: + 6" + 6" = 157" (13'1") Island w/24" cabinet, seating on one side, & minimum aisle (36" b/w non-seating side of island and other wall): .....With run of cabinets behind the seats and no traffic or counter behind seats: 25.5" + 36" + 40.5" + 48" + 25.5" = 175.5" (14'7.5") .....With run of cabinets behind the seats and either traffic or counter behind the seats (but not both): 25.5" + 36" + 40.5" + 54" + 25.5" = 181.5" (15'1.5") .....With run of cabinet behind the seats and traffic and counter behind the seats: 25.5" + 36" + 40.5" + 60" + 25.5" = 187.5" (15'7.5") .....With ideal aisles: 25.5" + 42" + 40.5" + 60" + 25.5" = 193.5" (16'1.5") If you have only one wall run of cabinets, you can subtract about 2' off each of the above measurements... Now, some questions... (1) Where does the door lead that's to the left of the range? Is it used a lot? (2) The door on the long wall w/the oven cabinets...does it lead to the DR? Is the DR used a lot? (3) The open area at the opposite end of the kitchen from the range....is that the Den/Family Room? When everyone was working on my kitchen, a comment was made that a kitchen that's 11' or 12' wide is more difficult to work with than one that's 9' or 14' wide. The 11' or 12' wide kitchen it too narrow for an island and too wide for the traditional Galley w/a 4' aisle b/w the cabinet runs. So far, no one has disproved this... whew! A lot of #s!!!

BTW, the easy way to hang a wall cabinet is to screw a piece of wood to the wall. Almost any straight scrap you have lying around, a 2"x4" or whatever. Figure out where you want the bottom of your cabinet to be then draw a level line on the wall. Line the top of that piece of scrap wood up with your line and screw it, in several places, to the studs inside your wall. When you're done with that then you can just rest the cabinet on top of your scrap wood (slide if from side to side a bit if you wish) and practically hold the cabinet with one hand while it's being anchored to the wall. Only down side to this method is that it leaves you with some screw holes to repair...once the cabinet is installed and you remove the scrap wood yep, you've got some holes.

Absolutely.