For example if a breaker is rated for 15 amps and you see it's output is 25 amps, then why hasn't the breaker tripped? Well, it could be a defective breaker. Or, it could be because it hasn't been carrying 25 amps for long enough. That kind of overload isn't dangerous for a few minutes, and most breakers are designed to allow some overload for some time. The amount of time before they trip is typically inversely proportional to the size of the overload. This is under the control of a thermal device, so overheating of a terminal can fool the breaker into tripping early. If you know the breaker's specifications, then you can better judge whether it should have tripped under the circumstances.

I would suggest just installing a 400 amp manual, non-fused, service entrance rated transfer switch with an inlet to plug your generator into. This way, you will be able to power your entire interior panel and have the luxury of using any circuit that you need. If the only objective here were to service the house main panel (interior panel?), I'd have no qualms with this approach, but it doesn't address the two-service configuration. [Also, assuming the remote house disconnect is fused at 200A, then a lower-rated transfer switch (e.g., 200A) could be used below the disconnect. Note that the OP still hasn't confirmed that the disconnect is fused, but I think he's implying that. It makes sense that it'd be fused in order to protect the 4-ought AL wire feeding the house.] **** If, as is likely, that water pump in the barn is 220V, the simple 120V extension cord option for the barn doesn't appear to be a viable option so, yes, I think you're looking at a two-transfer switch design of some sort. My hunch is that any kind of single switch designed to handle two services would put you into some really pricey industrial hardware, so it's probably a case of "two is cheaper than one". To further flesh out Option #2, you could consider installing a j-box with a 120/240V generator inlet spliced to two ouput feeds--one to each transfer switch, located immediately downstream of the discos. What remains to be vetted, to my way of thinking, is the issue of how the grounding system works with that three-wire feeder. I hope that one of the double-E's here comes along to weigh in on that because I don't feel qualified to give you a confident recommendation about how to bond (or not bond) at the generator itself.

Thanks for the info. No aluminum wire and I had replaced all the receptacles with commercial grade long ago. I made sure all the wire ends were clean and made sure all screws were tight. I would never use back stab outlets and never even use stranded wire smaller than #8. I didn't trace down circuits to know what outlets were on which breaker. There are just enough empty spaces in the main panel for the additional circuits I need to add for my office and son's bedroom. Probably will need a couple more for the kitchen when I get to that. I need 3-4 circuits for my office if I move it completely into my home. Two big printers that need individual dedicated circuit each. My HP Workstation with 5 monitors and three host servers. A separate dedicated circuit for servers and workstations that are being set up for my customers. The entire main panel would be big enough for the garage - but only if it was empty to start. My dad put in a 12 breaker box for his shop and it was full when he finished, leaving nowhere to expand. He has said over and over that he should have put in a 24 space box. Since he is 90, I will eventually have his stuff plus mine, which I would like to get out of my commercial building. His biggest tools are 2HP 240v. I have several that are 5HP 240v. Each big tool on its own breaker, two spaces right? Likely use 15-18 spaces for the shop/garage alone. I'm trying to get that done so I have the tools to work on the rest of the house. The extra circuits for my office need to connect somewhere as well as replacing most wiring that runs to west end of house. The wiring near the main panel like the family room DOES seem fine. It seems the house was set up originally for 200A service and a few big loads like trying to heat a big house with poor insulation and big single pane windows with electricity! I know when my ex and I looked at it originally, there were several extra electric heaters including one in each occupied bedroom so that probably was pushing those circuits to the max 20 years ago. With it being 100' from main box to the main power needs at west end, does it really make sense to run a bunch of individual cables? A single run from panel to the south side of my office would be 150' by the time it connected a few outlets. I should also mention that I'm installing at least one conduit across the house for data anyway. Great neighborhood, big pile of a house with "potential". It made sense at the time but things change.

Hillside House...yup, you were the originator on that idea! Partim...sorry, i really wish this forum had numbered post for easier reference. In the black and white floorplan posted above (11/12) is what i was referring to. Basically keep our current stove/oven where it is but take out the 2 walls of the pantry and put the fridge there. Kathi Steele...what "bank of cabients" are you referring to? Which "doorway" are you referring to? Since this remodel has rendered by unable to focus and therefor useless at work, i've been messing around on IKEA's design program today. So basically, this is the new layout i'm talking about with putting the fridge in the current pantry area (the software would not allow me to put a doorway to the right of the fridge shown below):