Need a warm area pine that will survive a more cold climate? Loblolly
24 days ago
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Pitlolly Pine (Pitch X Loblolly Hybrid)
Comments (24)Brian: It would be nice, for tree lovers like us, to be able to get a variety of hybrid pines, but the problem is that there is no market for them that would re-pay the investment of setting up production. The one that may, at some point, be available, is loblolly X shortleaf. The idea behind this one is to develop a tree resistant to fusiform rust, which in some areas is a big problem with southern pines, including loblolly. I am not sure if there are others that will have a commercial market worth exploiting. Another factor is that there are regular pines that are very nice. One thing holding back pitlolly is eastern white pine, which is a flat out gorgeous tree, and which is very productive. It's wood, however is inferior to the southern pines, but it does find a ready market. If I didn't already have knock-dead gorgeous white pine groves, seeming to tower to heaven, at my timberland in far western MD, I might not be "messing" with loblolly, and pitlolly, so much. Northern growers also have red pine--not my favorite pine tree, but productive. The only genus that I know of where there is a great tree fancier's interest in hybrids, is the oaks. You can find all kinds of hybrids there, and I have been sampling some. But here's an idea: if there is something you really, really want--maybe the pitch X pond, you may be able to do a search and find out who, and at what university, has worked with it, and then give that person a call. He night be able to tell you if your idea is a good one, and-- you never know--someone might be willing to send you something. --spruce...See Morewarm temperate and subtropical plants in various climates
Comments (25)OK. the trump card the proves, beyond a shadow of a doubt, why FAR more warm summer plants can tolerate cool summers, than cool summer plants can tolerate warm summers...is glacial refugia. Let's compare the East Coast to the Pacific Coast. In the last Ice Age, the glaciers came about as far south as central Pennsylvania. The currently warm summer areas in the mid-Atlantic and upper South would obviously have had much, much cooler summers, in addition to colder winters. On the Pacific coast, they only went as far south as roughly the WA/OR border. The climate of a place like San Francisco no doubt got a bit colder, but not much. At worst, it might have gotten as cool as Seattle. But guess what...both places have cool summers now. It didn't make a difference if San Francisco had slightly cooler summers, they already are cool - the plants did not require any adaptation! OTOH, the plants of the Southeast had to adapt to much cooler summers. Hence the reason most Southeastern shrubs will grow just fine in the UK, assuming the winters aren't too cold, but very few shrubs from the world's maritime climates can grow in the Southeastern USA. There's no reason to think there would be ancestral/inactive genes in those plants to tolerate warm summers, because they never had to tolerate them. OTOH, warm summer climate plants have had to tolerate cooler summers during glacial periods. This post was edited by davidrt28 on Fri, Nov 30, 12 at 19:55...See MoreWarm vs cold climate gardeners
Comments (29)I, like many others, appreciate all of the advice on this forum. I love it when anyone responds to my postings. I sort through the advice and use what I can and keep in mind what I can't. I love being able to learn on this forum about the different climates, cultures, and how things are in different parts of the world. I find the differences in how the same rose grows in different environments, simply amazing. I also usually ask what zone people are in (as do many, many others) as even for those of us in "warm climates," those climates can vary as well. I know what works for me may not work for someone else. I live where temps get to be about the surface of the sun for months on end, doesn't cool off at night, (Wednesday we are back up to 109 degrees again) and in the winter time, it is cold, foggy with black ice, dark and dank. I generally get about two weeks to a month of spring and the same for fall. So, for me, Sam, your generalizations don't work so well. I garden organically, none of my roses are in raised beds and I continuously try to amend my soil to be the best it can be. My yard was one that was acknowledged by our University Extension, Master Gardeners and the local cities/county, to be "sustainable" for my area as I do garden organically, amend the soil, plant "like" plants together, for watering and other needs. I have "zones" where I can control, through my drip system, the amount of water my plants get, so our precious water here is not wasted. I type this not to brag, but to give an example that us folks in warm climates are also concerned about the environment, soil, our plant root systems, etc. If anything, when I first started gardening, I found most of the gardening literature to be for people in cold climates and it didn't make much sense for us in warm climates. It was difficult to find much of anything for people growing roses, organically, in hot climates, and not growing hybrid teas. I appreciate the knowledge of everyone here on the forum. Lord knows, I am still learning and the folks on this forum have so much more experience and knowledge than I. I am very thankful for that and appreciate the time, energy and knowledge they give to the people on this forum....See MoreCan a wooden outside porch railing survive hot humid climate?
Comments (14)I recently bought a 30 year old house in a hot humid climate with cedar railings. I guess they are original, but I don’t know. There is a roof overhead, so the only rain they saw was blown in. There was a lot of rain. The house exterior was neglected, maybe sealed a long time ago. The rails absorbed whatever water got to them. (Salt air is not an issue here.) I am now sealing the rails (and entire house siding - not floors) with Cabot solid acrylic siding stain, 2 coats. This stuff is GREAT. It goes on like matte paint, and sinks into the old wood, making it look similar to the trex rails I had on my old house. It seems to infuse and coat the wood with plastic. (I don’t think it looks like plastic, but that is up to the viewer to perceive.) If the wood is new, someone suggested to me to sand it smooth, stain it and coat it with multiple coats of marine varnish. That way, you could probably use transparent stain and let the wood grain show through. If you choose this approach, do more research - I think he mentioned several steps to me that I wrote down somewhere. If you are doing wood, I would avoid paint. Paint peels. Stain fades. Cleaning and recoating stain should be a lot easier than dealing with paint maintenance. Stains don’t come in or look good in very many light colors - medium or dark tones are the way to go. If you want white or light colored railings, think more about PVC options. Trex warps. I did not have noticable warping with the trex rails in my previous home, but I’m not sure they sell those 2x products anymore. Metal tends to rust near the ocean. Do research to learn if the metal products you choose still have that problem. (Rails, outdoor furniture, door hardware, etc.) Here are pics of my weathered stained rails. These were BAD. This was the rail that was exposed the most to the rain. This is only one coat of Cabot cordovan brown stain. The light colored specs are dust that will be brushed off before the second coat. The green siding is Cabot sagebrush stain. You can see the neglected siding on the right of the bottom pic. That still soaks up a lot of rain. (Please excuse the spiders on the cream-colored door paint - they haven’t been evicted yet - I’ve been too busy repairing and painting.)...See MoreRelated Professionals
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