Snapdragons as perennials in zone 6b?
15 days ago
last modified: 15 days ago
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- 15 days ago
- 15 days ago
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too late for Zone 6A/6B
Comments (1)Oakes usually ships quickly. I certainly would request prompt shipping....See MoreSalvia farinacea is it an Annual or Perennial for Zone 6b?
Comments (6)They're annuals for both of us (I'm technically zone 7A) and they hate temperatures under 25 degrees. I do read reports of S. farinacea surviving easy winters, or with plenty of mulch, but it's never happened to me even in my warmer southern face garden. Some people overwinter by lifting, drying a bit, and storing, but I've never tried that. I collect seed from mine (I already started this year) and start them indoors under lights in March. You can also dig up a plant, or plants, pot them, and put them at a sunny windowsill for the winter. Growth and blooming are spotty, but they'll survive and can be transplanted back into the garden once frost is past next spring. On the up side, a few volunteers are possible in many of our gardens--several salvia, both S. splendens and S. farinacea, sprouted randomly in my garden....See MoreShrubs and flowers for west-facing colonial in zone 6b
Comments (8)I'm not sure a matching row of anything is required on either side. The narrow bed edged by the sidewalk does limit what you can plant. Since that appears to be the sunniest spot, dwarf abelias could work (and fit) there. A few to consider are 'Kaleidoscope', 'Lemon Lime', 'Miss Lemon' or 'Confetti'. But there is no reason you can't mix it up with some other size appropriate broadleaved evergreen. Or even a dwarf conifer. And feel free to squeeze a few tropical-look annuals or temperennials like the cannas (which would look pretty stunning with the abelias). On the shadier, tree side, I'd assume you are not as restricted with the bed width because of no walkway? If so, widen the bed to accommodate other shade tolerant plantings that would fit.....maybe dwarf rhododendrons, pieris or kalmias and suitable perennials like hostas, which can appear very tropical with their big leaves. Or add caladiums for a more colorful tropical vibe. The point is that a single soldierly line of the same plant is boring and uninspired. They don't all have to be the same on either side so pick and choose to maximize contrast, texture and seasonal appeal. And I'd suggest just using annuals on the planting bed streetside of the walkway. With the typical excessively narrow walkway most houses have by default, large bushy plantings edging a narrow sidewalk will start to feel engulfing and intimidating and make the walkway feel even more narrow. I'd get rid of the those big green blobs to begin with. They are doing nothing to enhance the entry,...See MoreQuestion re: dormancy timing and my Container garden in NYC, Zone 6b.
Comments (3)Thanks, Jay. Some of my plants are up on a 4th floor rooftop, so they are getting both full sun and wind. However, I guess my question is...what if after Sep 16, they are essentially not getting watered at all anymore, aside from an occasional rainfall? (While someone WILL be staying here - but only from Sep 16 thru Sep 26 - they are under no obligation to water my plants, at all...and regardless, from Sep 26 onward, there will be No One here to water them at all, for the rest of this calendar year. Put another way, at any other time of the growing season, if an outdoor container plant (one which normally likes daily watering) is 'never watered' for a number of weeks/months, it will eventually die. But around mid-September onward, and when most outdoor plants are getting ready to go dormant, anyway, maybe such plants (that were no longer getting watered) won't die per se, but might just go dormant a bit earlier? That's what I'm really trying to understand...when the dormancy timing might be starting up.... whether I really need to worry so much about my plants not getting watered at all, for the most part, from Sep 16 onward......See MoreRelated Professionals
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)