How does this ventilation hood work?
25 days ago
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If a fan is used...how does one vent it outside for ventilation
Comments (4)Thanks for the link...so...when it's frigid cold...one would close this off? Using the other method that would circulate air flow...without the louvers open. Or am I totally confused. Trying to imagine having opened louvered fan in the winter and keeping a room of windows heated even at a cooler temp. During warmer months. The trees would be outdoors...just needing a winterization facility to house them. So...could one leave the louvered fan out of the plan...using only a fan? Since windows do open...if needed,open one near the fan in use... Or am I looking at this all wrong? Sorry for my ignorance...just, I know how hard it is to heat our sunroom off the kitchen/dining area of our home. Having an opened draft with the louvered fan seems like fighting an uphill battle. With keeping the room at a specific temp. Thinking an indoor/outdoor good thermometer that I can see the temps while inside my home...maybe a good route to also go. I am thinking on a warmer winter day....is when one may need ventilation....See More6 inch duct for hood liner - need ventilation experts!
Comments (7)To make a long story short, I have two Kobe 30" undercabinet hoods. One is the 122 and the other is the 27 with baffle filters. I originaly had 5" duct and adapted the 7" fitting to the 5" pipe. The duct also has some bends because the plumber decided to run the gas line in the ceiling right where the duct wants to be. The air draw really sucked. It was so bad it would not even hold a klennex to the baffles on the low setting which is claimed to pull 280 cfm. Kobe sent me the 122 without baffles as a fix. It was a little better. The baffles themselves reduce air flow. I upgraded the duct to 6". This was the largest size I could get due to the gas pipe blocking the way of anyting larger. It did help a bit but to get any decent draw I need to put the blower on a higher setting, making more noise. My experience with Kobe (the company) was very good. They answered my calls and stood behind thier product. The product is of decent quality. It is designed in Japan and built in China. The 27 had poorly made baffles, they are stamped in two parts and riveted together. The ones I had were warped and one rivet was not installed properly and would not fit. Kobe sent me a new set promptly. I used a Radio Shack sound pressure meter to measure the noise. With the 27, without baffles installed the hood is essentially silent on the low setting. It didn't move any air, but it was silent. The meter goes down to 50db and it did not register with the meter sitting on the cooktop. With the baffles installed it was about 65db. Not exactly silent. The air moving through the baffles is the cause. On high is is fairly loud. The 122 has no baffles and is more quiet and moves better air. The right side of the 122 hood was not welded properly and is not flat. I didn't ask Kobe to replace it though sicne they shipped that one to me to correct the issue with the 27. Uninstalled the hoods move a lot of air. I could blow a column of air across the room. Proper ducting is important. The Kobe hood was one of the few seamless hoods that fit under my cabinets at the right height. It has a nice seamless look, the controls are a little odd but you get used to them. It is not as quiet as they claim. I like the looks of the 27 hood but I have the 122 installed. I may consider a fantech inline fan to pull more air. In that case I may reinstall the 27. Hope that helps....See MoreVentilation that's not a hood
Comments (6)What is your purpose in thinking about ventilation? Getting rid of smoke, grease, and steam that results from cooking? That requires an actual hood t capture all of that before it floats around the room to attach itself to your cabinets and room fabrics. If you don' have a capture space, the best that can be hoped for is (eventually) just the smoke from the burned bacon will make it out of the kitchen in a half hour or so. The grease and steam just stay. But there's enough air currents generated that they travel further into the space than they would if there was no ceiling vent at all. It's called flow dynamics, and there are zillions of studies that cover it. So, why do you want to vent? If it's for home cleanliness and odor control, that requires a hood. If it's for indoor air quality so you're not breathing all of that yuck into your lungs, that requires a hood to capture all of that in order for it to be vented. Think of a kitchen as a chemistry lab in your home, as that is basically what it is. Have you ever been in a chemistry lab without a fume hood?...See MoreVentilation Hood Advice: Vent-A-Hood or Miele Insert Liner
Comments (26)I am the resident expert only because real HVAC systems engineers don't frequent this forum, as far as I know. Noise introduced into the kitchen will be significantly reduced if an external blower with silencer can be fitted. A lot of the high frequency blade tip turbulence caused noise will be removed. This is also true of an in-line (duct mounted) blower. The issue of the neighbor is difficult to assess. What is the configuration of his or her windows relative to your potential external blower (1500 CFM I assume you meant). Your own window sound transmission is also an unknown. Generally, the external noise could be abated by (a) using a silencer on each side of a duct mounted in-line blower, or (b), using a deliberately under-driven* "up-blast" commercial blower (mounted as a side blast). (I think opaone is using an under-driven blower for his new system.) It is also possible to use a chase to move the blower up to roof level. I have a 1500 CFM nominal Wolf (Broan) blower on my roof. Its sound level is detectable but not obtrusive from the ground, but it might be if in a wall location where the sound is "trapped" between two houses. Possibly a more expensive but similar in design Abbaka downslope unit would be marginally quieter. ------ * commercial blowers of this type can use a pulley system between motor and fan that allows for different ratios. By choosing a ratio that operates the fan blades below their rated speed when the motor is receiving maximum voltage, significant turbulence noise can be avoided. The physical cost is a larger unit than would otherwise be required for the desired flow rate. Residential blower fans are directly coupled to their motors....See MoreRelated Professionals
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