Debhawks, the last photo posted should have been your first one. I didn't understand the "unbalanced" comment. Now, seeing a non-myopic view of the Birch, I see the conflict. I'm still OK with the groundcover portion of my earlier submission, but think the tree-form shrub should be a smaller version... something that would only get 8' ht. So not intended to be anything one would walk below. Some of my advice about it will seem to conflict with advice I give later, below. But this is an architectural "fix" situation... not a normal, straighforward landscape use. Not enough time to do now, but let me explore this later. It could possibly be something different, too. Do I need to preach about how the Birch should be limbed up?... to higher than what you think because the upper limbs will hang lower over time. If you do the minimum, it will be back in your face not that much later. I would create at least a 12' clear trunk to start...asap. It's always better to start shaping woody plants while they're very young, but starting late is better than not starting at all. I would limb up the crab asap, too. Worry only about the trunk structure & canopy elevation. The head of the tree will form no matter what height you put it at (within reason... we'll not consider the outside extreme limits; we're just talking about normal situations.) Develop a nice bouquet shape of trunks. Remove those that spread too widely outside of the imaginary "cone" shape. (I think 50 to 60 degree spread generally works well.) To my thinking, a canopy should never begin below a persons head (but I've stated an exception above.) That's the minimum--or it obstructs view--but higher than that is fine. Think how you prefer the ceilings in your house to be somewhat above your head, not scraping against your hair. It's the same with tree canopies. On a small tree like the crab, I'd give a light trim to the outside dome shape of the canopy just to bring it into greater uniformity... if you have the means. You really DO need a tree at the left of house to make it look finished and established. It's too vacant over there. A medium size flowering tree could be nice. I'd also consider side a large tree-form "shrub" (12' - 15' ht.) by the mailbox corner--with some underplanting-- to help reduce the airport look of the driveway. There are very few instances where suitable shrubs in the tree-form can be purchased. The overwhelming preponderance of landscape thinking is ruled by horticulture, not by design. The horticultural thinking has it that woody plants, for the most part, should be allowed to grow as nature dictates... with just a little tweaking here and there. There are notable exceptions, but they have occurred with few plants. In most of cases it is far better to create the tree-form that works for your particular situation using the plant that suits your needs. It's not hard. It takes a little time, but not much effort. I can elaborate later.

Misti, what you had before looked very inviting. The path behind the sofas is just that, the route to open the windows without walking through the conversation or sitting on someone to reach the window hardware :) You used a lovely table behind the large piece for decorative things exactly right. That's what I noticed, not the back of the couch. I think if you just move the sofa forward to the rug edge then the loveseat in a bit it will connect them without having the larger pathway around the grouping. You can put the sofa table tight between the couch and wall and use that as another surface for lamps. That said, I do like the cozier arrangement since it lets you enjoy the fireplace better and it's easier to talk to the person across from you. It all depends on what works and feels best for you and your family. Your DH probably didn't like those corners with nothing to take up the space. You can use plants, artwork or bookcases to fill in over time if that's the case.

bump

Budget and building codes permitting, you could recreate your entry. You might ... Remove the first floor roof from above the front stoop -- everything from the brick to the garage. Create a new forward facing gable roof over that area beginning at the ridge of the upstairs -- at least at that height or even above it -- and extending the roof of that forward facing gable to a point at least twelve feet in front of the downstairs exterior wall. About six feet of this will be your new front entry foyer with your front door moved to the new exterior wall facing the road. The rest will be your new front porch. Alternately, you could extend the forward facing gable roof only six or eight feet beyond the front exterior of your home to create your new entry foyer and then add a shed roof with two hip corners for your new front porch. You'll be enlarging the upstairs room on the left by extending the floor of that upstairs room into the vaulted ceiling space above your new porch; then you can move the original window to that new upstairs exterior wall of your forward facing gable. What front door and front porch post style you use will help define/redefine you home. You could also add an arbor across your garage that coordinates with the posts you use for your new porch.