Leak behind shower wall -- shear wall -- diagnosis & how to fix?
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Tile shower leaking yet again...what to do? (pics)
Comments (34)I don't remember posting on the John Bridge site, although I have read as many related posts as I could find. Today is the day of reckoning... I contacted my builder a month ago and explained the problem. I could not find a contractor who would commit to the job. Under the builder's oversight, a "new" contractor (with 27 years of experience) is here today ripping out the tile. So far, it seems that the backerboard was run over the flange of the Swan shower pan. Also, the front corner areas where there was no flange were not properly caulked before the tile was set so the water that was getting behind the tile overflowed to the front of the curb. Addtionally, it seems that the areas where the grout was cracked were allowing water to penetrate. They are ripping out the entire first row of tile, down to the studs. We'll see what else they find. So far, no mold but it is moist back there. I have also found that the "weep hole" issue is hotly debated. (see link) At this point, I'll have to stick with the concept of having weep holes given the amount of water flowing from the holes. If all that water were to remain behind the tile, I can't imagine what would happen. Wish me luck. By the way, I guess I moved my pictures. If anyone wants to see them again, I will repost. Just say the word. Here is a link that might be useful: Weep hold question on John Bridge...See Morequestion regarding leak behind the shower valve
Comments (1)I've seen plumbers leave this gap around taps many times, depending on the trim to keep water out....but clearly it doesn't work. I didn't get round to sealing with silicone on my last place (ex-wife's problem now) but there's absolutely no reason why you can't seal with bathroom silicone - I suppose anti-mould type would be ideal - just as long as you don't interfere with the threads where the trim screws on. If you need to do work on it later you may have to scrape the silicone out, but that's no big deal. You've seen how, potentially, walls get rotten. If you seal that up, there's one less potential water entry point. Your plumber's not unusual in this regard, but it ought to be made a common practice (to do this sealing)...See MoreWill my attempt to fix this leak end in disaster?
Comments (8)The fixtures are in remarkable condition which lead's me to think they will not be difficult to disassemble. I take it you own and know your way around tools so here we go. First off since you are only having a little by-passing at diverter,let's only do it to see how things go. The worst that can happen unless you get crazy is you make the diverter worse but there's no flood and surly you can take tub baths for a few days without drowning. Set handle at mid way between tub and shower. Hold knob while removing screw. If handle doesn't slide off with a little pulling and wiggling,pull while tapping with metal object from behind. After handle stem cover are removed you will likly see one small plus one large place for a wrench. Don't mess with small nut,that's to adjust packing in case water leaks around stem. Use a box end wrench or deep socket (6 point preferred but certainly not nessary)to remove stem. O-rings and washer are self explainitory but seat that remains in fixture can be tricky to remove and difficult to find replacement for. If you don't see shinny scratches on seat you might get by without replacment. The seat will have either square or hex hole in center. Seat wrenches are inexpensive but if you are carful,seat can be removed with ever day tools. Allen wrench for hex and an old manual operated wood drill bit for square. Just make sure it fit's and keep it straight or you risk damage to new soft brass seat while installing. While stem is out,lub stem where it go's through packing plus course threads that pull and push stem when handle is turned. If that go's well you can put new washers in hot and cold before they start dripping ( don't forget to adjustmid-way open and closed while removing and reinstalling). Good luck...See More1/2" open gap between wall tiles and wall - how to fix?
Comments (26)The gap at the edge is not the real problem. That’s worrying about the color of the band aid over a nicked artery. That is not a job from a professional qualified tile contractor. One issue in getting recommendations from homeowners is that most homeowners don’t actually know enough to be able to judge if the job was done correctly. All they know is the guy mostly showed up on time and it isn’t too obviously a fail. They do not understand that what lies beneath their pretty and expensive tile is far more expensive, and far more important, than what it ends up looking like in it’s superficial appearance. Not meaning to insult you, but that’s true here. You are noticing the superficial low quality installation aesthetic appearance, but do not have any specifics about any of the processes or materials underneath the spot bonded tile on the out of plane walls, with no visible waterproofing on the still visible wall underneath. You’re still worried about the superficial appearance, and that’s not the real issue here. If that visible gap didn’t exit, you’d never think about the other deficiencies that are pretty apparent to an experienced eye because of that gap. (You’re actually very lucky the gap is there!) And you might go on to recommend this hack to other homeowners. Only to retract that recommendation in a couple of years time when the mold shows up. After he’s done his damage to other projects, and put you in his rear view mirror. Homeowner recommendations for skilled labor projects should always be taken with a huge dose of skepticism. Professional recommendations, only slightly more weight. An electrician doesn’t understand tile. The weight to give are industry certifying bodies, and membership in trade specific groups. Industry education for tile is trying to catch up and police itself of the unqualified. Its not the $2 a square foot Depot lot guys that are to be worried about. People know they’re getting nothing quality for that. It’s the 2K tub wall guys that are the problem. They present as knowledgeable, but aren’t. They do far more damage than the day labor guys, because people have higher expectations, but don’t have the personal knowledge to verify that the contractor can fulfill those expectations. A homeowner shouldn’t have to learn all about the technical details. But in the Wild Wild West of guys with trowels for hire, that learned knowledge is the bottom line defense of their castles against Trojan Horse contractor’s who surface appear to be qualified, but aren’t. To mix a half dozen metaphors. That work is an obvious fail. It needs to be completely redone, from the framing out, with someone who understands and follows industry standards. While cost is no guarantee of quality work, it is an overall indication of the time and quality of materials being used on the job, which does correlate to the quality of the work. I‘m not talking the actual tile. That’s completely irrelevant to what goes on under the tile. The required materials and time that it takes to do a shower properly has the industry prevailing costs be in the 7-9K range. A tub surround, 4-7K. When interviewing for your new contractor, after taking the proper steps to fire this one, please use the questions from the CTEF website about how to find a quality tile installer. Then use your now educated sad experience to educate others....See MoreRelated Professionals
Lincoln Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Santa Fe Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · South Jordan Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Salem General Contractors · Ogden Painters · Elizabeth Painters · North Bethesda Painters · West Chester Painters · Henderson Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Newington Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Republic Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · San Bruno Glass & Shower Door Dealers · Suwanee Glass & Shower Door Dealers · Ponte Vedra Glass & Shower Door Dealers · Rolling Meadows Window Treatments- last month
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