Exterior design - how do I make it super high end?
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How does Snapper P2160KWV compare against high end Honda mowers?
Comments (6)To my knowledge the Snapper doesn't have a BBC, so it seems like it wouldn't be a good choice for you. In general, Snappers are good mowers used by many lawn crews, and with few differences between the residential Hi-Vacs and the commercial ones (meaning the residential models are tough). This Kawasaki engine is big and pretty heavy, but it's _really_ powerful. It will mulch and side-discharge well, but Hi-Vacs are of course known especially for bagging abilities. By "top-end" Honda, you probably still mean the residential units (commercial models are the real high end of any mower line). As far as I know, Hondas are generally very good mowers too. My biggest concern would be that the transmission would eventually break and cost so much to replace that the mower becomes disposable. The Snapper can easily and cheaply be repaired forever. As for the Toro model you mentioned, probably the biggest difference is the drive system. Personal Pace is a different animal and takes getting used to. Many love it, some not so much. You should go to a dealer to try it first. Of course, again that's a bagging-specialty mower and if mulching and side-discharge are you main goals, you should probably look at their Super Recyclers....See MoreAre my expectations just too high for even the high end cabinet makers
Comments (45)1) Regarding the screws.... For the drawer faces: Pocket holes should be drilled into the face frames if they must be attached permanently vs using the hardware to keep them on. The pocket holes should have covers attached (either the plastic or wood options). I personally prefer if they are removable via removal of the hardware so they can be changed out or refaced in the future & since you're going the custom route I'd defiantly want it! Inside the cabinets: A pilot hole should be drilled prior to screw if the wood hardness requires it & the screw counter sunk (slightly below the side walls) with or without plastic caps (depending on the company). Cabinet/Wall Brace:Are all the cabinets secured to the wall with simple screws?? I was really surprised to see this! How are they making sure the bases are secured to studs & not just drilled through into the gypsum board? In the past I've seen cabinet makers use a base board across the run anchored into wall studs and the bases are then secured to the board. Holes: The hole that will be exposed once the dishwasher is installed needs to be fixed. The fridge cabinet with the double screws and the blank hole is ridiculous...whomever was doing the install rushed and didn't care about screw placement or taking the time to properly aline things before drilling. Again= Custom built should = quality control and care! Yes there are MUCH better ways of finding the studs...even just using your knuckles to knock on the wall can get you close enough that a max of 2 holes might need drilled if you miss it the first time....again, sloppy work installing. The range microwave: Did they know that cabinet was going to support a microwave/hood? I'd ask about the install and max weight support. I don't believe 2 screws is enough to hold it (especially if they only screwed it into the wall & not a support board!) but don't know...I'd just hate to have it come crashing down a year from now! *You need to make sure the cabinet makers know that screw placement & finish result is important to you and you expect no screws will be felt or seen once the install is complete. 2) Shims: Yes, it's totally normal for wood shims to be left under the cabinets. Floors aren't completely level and in a new build the house will settle over time and the floor will change so it's important that the cabinets can be leveled. This is why RTA cabinets like IKEA have adjustable feet on the base that's hidden with a toe kick. Custom cabinet makers use wood shims to level on site during install and those can then be removed or added to as time goes on and any changes are required to keep the cabinets level. 3) Fixture & Outlet Holes: Yes, it's common to have large square pre-cut from the backs before install as plumbing is different for every job & since fixtures change depending on the choices made in faucet, garbage disposal, dishwasher lines, etc they can't make exact cuts. Again, this is why a lot of RTA cabinets are backless and if the backing is ordered it must be cut by the installer to fit the existing fixture spaces. HOWEVER- I totally agree with your being upset about the range plug placement and their solution to cut another hole into the side of the custom cabinet boxes. Although- I'm not entirely sure I understand correctly if it had to go through another base to reach the outlet or just the base of that unit vs the back side where a hole was already cut? I don't know what another solution would have been.... 4) Cabinet Face Gaps: Are you doing a full overlay with the new build as well? I completely agree that the gap's should be consistent and you definitely shouldn't be able to see the contents of the drawers! If the cabinets are full overlay why is the frame not hiding the contents? If they are custom inset then I'd be very picky about how it all lines up since this is a fine craft that requires skill & time to get right (hence the excessive cost)...plus wood swells & contracts so they need to fit properly with a slight consistent gap after install....See MoreHow do I add modern design to a split-level exterior?
Comments (9)White trim, white around the windows. SW Attitude Gray. I think you could do a lot with landscaping. We can't see the entrance and that is usually the focal point to the front of a house. The right side of the house dominates as it is more forward and two story. For that reason I decided not to paint the gable in another color. It would just draw more attention. SW Night Owl, if you are willing to paint the brick...See MoreCurbless Shower Bathroom Design: Where Do I End The Slope?
Comments (20)You've already received good advice about hiring a qualified contractor for your job. That is #1. Your qualified contractor should be able to answer all your questions. Where you begin slope will depend on various factors and likely won't require entire room slope. Specifically, industry standards (and especially for a residential application): "High point of floor must be outside shower area (beyond shower door or curtain), to facilitate evacuation of shower water and splash due to curbless design." A qualified contractor will also understand industry standards related to the waterproofing membrane which should continue outside of shower floor area one foot beyond high point of tiled floor. Start with hiring a contractor with verifiable experience. If they can't answer your questions with standards based methods, you haven't found the right contractor. Curbless showers are very popular and being done regularly in many areas of the country where qualified contractors can be found....See MoreRelated Professionals
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