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the ideal rage depth for a 24 inch counter

last month

Hello there, I am looking for expert advice please. I am in the process of shopping for a slide in/free standing range for my 24 inch countertops.
What depth should my range be?
Is a 28 in too deep?
Thank you in advance.

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Comments (9)

Buehl
last month
last modified: last month
Is your counter really going to be 24"D? Generally, they're 25.5"D. Non-inset base cabinet boxes, without doors or drawer fronts, are 24"D. Doors & drawer fronts add another 1" or so to the depth. Pulls and knobs add another 0.5" or so.

Counters overhang boxes by around 1.5" to cover the cabinet boxes, doors/drawer fronts, and, usually, hardware. The overhang prevents drips/spills from dripping into cabinets and/or drawers and down the cabinet doors/drawer fronts -- drips will damage both.

Inset cabinets can get away with 1" overhang b/c the doors/drawer fronts are inset into the cabinet box, but I would not go any shallower.

So, what will/is the true depth of your counters?

If this is an existing Kitchen that has a countertop that is not being changed and you measured them to be 24" from the wall to the counter edge, then that's what you have (for your sake, I hope it's not!)

If this is for a new/remodel and new counters are being installed, then I would check with your fabricator to ensure you are getting the correct overhang.

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Regarding slide-in range depths, the depths are close to the same. They may vary by an inch or so, but I think you'll be OK with whichever one you choose. Focus on the depth without handles. From AJ Madison's site for a GE Profile Induction Range. Note the depth without handles is 27-3/8".
Fabiola Smith
Original Author
last month
Excellent idea. “Focus on depth without handles” I like that!
The range I am looking at , the monogram, the knobs and handles are very bulky so they make the range look huge.
Thank you so much for your help.
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blondell: I don't specifically recall, but as I face Fagor I have a wall on the left and Fagor is about 1.5-2 inches from that wall only so the door can open properly. I don't know the depth, but only the handle extends beyond my granite counter top (so that would be 25ish inches?). The right side abuts to the upper and lower cabs next to it. That side is gray, but it looks fine with my black (Absolute) and white (cabs) kitchen. I was going to box it in, but decided air flow might be compromised and it was going to make my tiny kitchen look/feel tinier. So I didn't and I'm glad. I'll be glad to check the book and report back. Re noise, the first night I did freak out when I heard this snapping/crackle/popping sound. I grabbed the manual and was relieved to know it was a normal sound for Fagor(something to do wit insulation expanding/contracting). Itr doesn't happen all the time, and it has never bothered me since. I live in a urban condo, an efficiency, and my bed is about 12 feet from the Fagor. Don't laugh; it's true! :o) I sleep right through the noise, and I have asked guests if it bothers them when it comes on, and they have't noticed it at all. I've sent you and email in case you want to discuss offline, I'll be glad to help. I also recommended the Fagor to a friend in Arlington VA whose kitchen is smaller than mine and she really loves hers, too. I've had mine for a year; my friend for about 2 months. I also got the 24" Bertazzoni gas stove if you're looking for ranges! Take care.
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This is a freestanding fridge, so it does not affect the value of your house (or can be swapped out for the pictures if you have to sell). That care taken care of, measure carefully. Remember that many full depth fridges still need air circulation in the back, so make sure you're looking at the full footprint numbers, rather than the box depth. Draw it out on the floor with masking tape. If you're not in the space yet, do it where you are, and make tape versions of the nearby cabinets and island too. Fill with boxes. See if walking around the stick-outy fridge bugs you. See if you bump into it a lot. Because that wall is there, no matter what depth fridge you have, it's going to have to stick out so a left-of-picture hinged door can open completely or have a single door opening between you and the working part of the kitchen. This can actually be useful, because you can dump things on the island, but snack raiders and condiment snarfers can be more or less outside of the kitchen while they root around in the fridge. Play around with the possibilities and the tape and boxes, and you'll soon figure out which you want. There are pluses and minuses of each, but it's how you and your family with use it and what will please or annoy you that matters. That's different for everybody.
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Comments (16)
Your range's oven door must sit proud of the base cabinets. Otherwise, when the oven door is open, the combustible materials of the cabinets would be exposed to the oven's heat. If you want deeper counters - and people who have them love them - you can buy standard 24" depth base cabinets, and pull them away from the wall by 3" for example. That way, your counters would be 27" deep, plus the counter overhang which is usually 1-1/4". If you instead buy 27" base cabinets, they will be much more expensive, and it will mean having to dig farther toward the back, and/or for the drawers you will need heavier duty rails to support the drawers pulled out so far. Definitely get deeper uppers if you are going for deeper counters. 15" deep uppers are commonly available. A pic of an oven that was not installed proud enough of the cabinets, and the resulting damage.
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Why Hamma? Because most Americans say they need humongous refrigerators/freezers. I hear people say they need to store the meat they killed on a hunt. They have very large parties every weekend. They cater large parties. They have many children who need many snacks all day long. Maybe they live many miles away from the nearest grocery store or supermarket. One of the posters above mentioned pizza boxes and soda/beer can boxes. (Not sure why you'd need to put a whole pizza or beverage box in the fridge.) Personally I have none of those issues. I do not like nor need a large hulking refrigerator. Counter depth is a cost-effective way to avoid the behemoth fridge look in the kitchen. Yes, they do protrude a few inches, but not as much as a conventional depth one. I have the same KA counter depth fridge (cost $2,000) as Anglophilia in my vacation rental home, and after 7 years it's still working fine, and looks great. In my primary residence we went for a 42" side by side built in Subzero, which protrudes only about 2", but is much more expensive ($9,000 retail). Fully integrated Subzeros are totally flush with the cabinets, and require expert installers.
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dan1888
last month
You can also look at induction ranges in 30 and 36" from Bosch and Electrolux.
wdccruise
last month
last modified: last month
"The range I am looking at , the monogram, the knobs and handles..."

Are you considering a gas or dual-fuel range? 30" wide? (Monogram doesn't make a induction ranges with knobs.)
Fabiola Smith
Original Author
last month
Just gas. I am looking at the 30 inch natural gas monogram.
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dan1888
last month
Tis Bosch 800 doesn't have knobs to stick out. This is a standard install.

If this is a renovation, you can choose different counter depths to maximize function. Standard cabinets can be spaced out from the wall with 2x4 spacers. A counter depth of 28 to 30 inches can add substantial function in a galley run when workzone width is limited.
Fabiola Smith
Original Author
last month
Bosch benchmark is a runner up.
I like the sleeker look their products offer.
0
wdccruise
last month
last modified: last month
These two GE Profile ranges earned "recommended" ratings from CR and both are only 26-7/8" deep without the handle. Owners recommend them too. The latter is a bargain at $900.
- GE PGS930YPFS Profile 30 in. 5 Burner Smart Slide-In Gas Range
- GE JGS760SPSS Profile 30" Slide-In Front-Control Convection Gas Range
Fabiola Smith
Original Author
last month
Very nice!! Thank you so much. That’s a great price and a good looking range.
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