Thanks for reply David. I actually came across that in my search and thought the same thing. Great minds think alike :) I have a sample on the way of this fixture from Progress lighting.... http://www.cesco.com/b2c/product/565315 It seems Progress has a patent on the locking mechanism. This locking method would allow me to cover the exterior of the can without interfering with the standard "friction winged" design. The depth is what I am concerned about as it says only 1" ceiling accommodation. Its datasheet drawing suggests I may get away w/ at least 2 inches though. I'll keep you posted. Thank you so much for reply!

Q1: Will need to know your ceiling height. If it's the common 8 foot, I'd probably go with 8 lights in a 2 x 4 matrix in the living room, or maybe 6 in a 2 x 3, and four lights arranged in a square for the other rooms. Roughly 3 feet in from the walls, about 7 feet apart, but it depends on the lights you use and their beam spread. Q2: IMO, yes Q3: It's a matter of personal preference. Neither is "the standard"; and 6", 5", and 4" cans are all popular. You can get 3" cans too. I like the 6" cans for most uses, as getting the same amount of light from a 4" can results in more glare if you look up at them. Although that can be rectified by using more lights with less-bright light bulbs or ones with a narrower beam spread. Q4: Yes, use LEDs from the start - might as well start saving money on your electric bill now, and not have to replace the light bulbs alot, maybe ever. The go-to LED downlight for many of us here is the Cree CR6, or the Home Depot version called the Ecosmart ECO-575L, which fit into 6" cans. The latter are usually less expensive - $30 if you buy them in two- or four-packs online. In their stores they're normally $35 each but may be less expensive, sometimes much less expensive, if you live in an area with some sort of incentive from the local power company or government. One usual reason we like these for new installations is that they include a built-in trim baffle, saving the $10 or so it would normally cost per lamp. However, they are white and you want wheat. Fortunately Cree does sell a anodized wheat insert (CT6AB) that probably looks something like the Juno trims you liked (this will be surrounded by a white ring when installed), though they'll add about $15 to the cost, but that's about what a separate trim ring would cost for a traditional halogen/incandescent recessed light. I use the CR6 extensively, because they're reasonably priced, use very little power (about 9 watts each), give off terrific quality light that looks just like an incandescent bulb, can be dimmed easily with most dimmers, spread light evenly, turn on without delay, and are very high quality. There are other choices that may work better in some circumstances, like if you have sloped ceilings or prefer a smaller light. If you like those little 3" cans (or 4" cans when fitted with conical trim baffles), you may want the SORAA Vivid 2 GU10 bulbs which are somewhat less bright than the CR6 but also give off excellent quality light and are well made, and are available in a choice of several beam spreads, and are priced in the low $30s range; these do not have integral trim baffles so you can use the Juno trims or another brand. You'll probably need more of these to light a large room than with the 6" cans. The Cree CR4 (again available at Home Depot as the ECO4-575) for 4" cans is frequently recommended, but it's available only with the intregral white trim or optional chrome, not wheat. This post was edited by lee676 on Wed, Nov 6, 13 at 11:56

Lithonia Wafer LEDs come in a variety of sizes and color temperatures and are completely diffused.

Nine seems excessive for a 7X9 space. Yes, two 40 watt equivalent lights is a bit low for vanity lighting. If it was me, I would look at sconces that still sit relatively close to the wall but also take standard bulbs. This may limit choices though. I'd say 6 can style lights would be adequate for the space, but it really is impossible to say without actually seeing the layout of the space and knowing how open the shower is relative to the entire space. I am not a fan of integrated led, although I admit I do use the flat disks that simulate can lights in various places as they can be gotten relatively cheap and install easy on a standard shallow junction box. The shallow j-boxes tend to be quicker and easier to install than cans and are less trouble if its attic space overhead. Overall, I do find it better to get fixtures that you can change a bulb in. Premature LED death is common so when that occurs, its a lot easier to change the bulb than change a fixture. Further, you can work to ensure that you get the color you like for the bulbs. If you get something that is too blue, it's not a big deal to get a different color bulb and fix it. You can also buy a more powerful bulb to throw more light if you find you need it.