from the link below: "... one of Burke's lawyers, said he was happy for Burke and his wife. The finding could also benefit other residents and force the city to take a more proactive stance on inspecting trees in its right of way ..." ===>>> no it wont.. it will lead to the city simply removing the trees .. causing a barren landscape .. why hire tree workers for life.. theirs or the trees.. when with one application of the chainsaw.. the problem is gone ... i got sick of the article at this point ... and didn't find out.. what the heck he was doing under the tree after a 4 day storm ... a similar thing is happening right now in my area ... storms cause power failures ... sometimes for days .. which isnt fun in the great white north in winter with no heat .. nor toilet ... so the peeps whine and moan.. and claims it all the power companies fault ... and demand something done ... so the power Co exercises it 'easement' .. and starts clearing all the trees the idiot people [mostly prior owners mind you] ... planted UNDER THE FREAKIN POWER LINES ... so what's the result.. slap on the back.. thanks for protecting our power source.. oh no .. diatribe after diatribe about how they are killing/maiming all the trees.. what a travesty .. OMG.. the world is going to end.. to which my reply is.. check your mortgage map .. YOU DONT OWN THAT PROPERTY.. nor have any right to have those trees there.. and you are in denial to whine and moan about it all ... well that part is in my head.. and what i say aloud is.. well.. as a gardener.. all i see is 'opportunity' .. for something new ... let me know if you need suggestions on what to plant there ... how about a nice line of lilac.. which will block your view ... and never really reach the power lines .. in your lifetime ... anyway.. the first thing they taught us in law school.. was.. bad facts make bad law ... and the fact that he was out under the tree after a storm.. is a bad fact ... most nearly as bad as the fact of the horrific injuries .. put those together.. and all i see.. is the city removing all the trees ... ok.. how do you find all these tree articles .. lol ... do you have some search engine alert you?? .. man o'live.. if ever a name was appropo ... you do love your trees .. lol .. ken ps: BTW.. do some research on palm roots.. i am pretty sure.. they barely have a root system as we tree peeps would think ... and whole large trees can be moved by cranes due to such [the machine.. not the bird] ... as i recall.. and that is always questionable ... lol ... they fall over rather easily ... but i would defer on this .. just some vague recollection.. as obviously.. we dont do palm in MI .... Here is a link that might be useful: same as the second link in her post

I have the same FE 30 problem on my KM5733 Induction cooktop whenever it's circuit breaker/isolation switch (in my house's fuse box) has been turned off and then on again. I have turned in back on after waiting a day or longer (figuring it needed to reset itself?) and the results have been hit and miss and I have had no idea why it would work sometimes and not others. Needless to say, I've trolled the net looking for answers and Miele online support is useless (unless you're ok with shelling out loads of cash to have a technician come by) and I still haven't heard back from them after lodging an enquiry. What I have discovered from this and other forums is that these units do not like being attached to a power source which has a voltage significantly above the amount stipulated in its specifications (for my unit it's 230 Volts). After reading this I used a voltage meter to measure the voltage in one of the power outlets in my house (I have a really cheap meter I'd bought a while ago at an electronics retailer). Sure enough it was above 260 Volts which is totally beyond the range it's supposed to be for where I'm living. The thing is, I know the unit works just fine provided it has been turned on and it doesn't get the initial FE 30 error (it's almost like you have to get past an initial voltage check and then once it's going everything is ok). If the voltage is at an "acceptable" (whatever that may be) level when it's turned on, it will turn on and then stay on even if the voltage goes up afterwards (which it obviously has done during the time from when it was last switched on until recently). How did I get it to work this time? well I thought of ways to reduce the voltage to the unit and came across all sorts of stuff on the net including powerbox voltage reducers, optimisers, blah, blah... I thought this is total rubbish and I'm going to ring the power company and complain about the voltage being so high when it's not supposed to be. I then thought back to my old high school physics days and remembered that there's a relationship between voltage, current and resistance. I then thought the voltage to the induction cooktop (as well as to all the other power outlets/circuits in the house) is likely to drop if I plug in and turned on a lot of high resistance electrical appliances. Sure enough, when I turned on the kettle, toaster, clothes dryer, computers, televisions, electric oil heaters, lights and dishwasher, the voltage in the power outlet I'd been measuring went down from 260 to 235 volts. I then turned on the power to the induction top back on and it turned on and with no FE 30 error! I boiled some water to make sure everything was working ok (it was) and then I turned off the induction top and all of the other devices I'd switched on. Still no FE 30 error! Great. I double checked the unit by turning it back on and boiling water again and it did it with no problems. I then turned the unit off and measured the voltage in the power outlet again and sure enough it was back at 260 Volts. Hurray! I'm now going to ring the power company and make a complaint...

Thanks @Ronnatalie. I'm not screwing around and constantly flipping the breaker, but thanks for the concern. Update: I did some more tests and thought i isolated the short at the outlet which I think is first on the circuit. I replaced the outlet and tried and the breaker stayed on. But then all of a sudden when I was putting things back together (stuffing boxes and replacing cover plates), the circuit tripped again. I figured I must have a wire exposed and grounding or something but after re-disassembling everything I saw no issues and the breaker still wouldn't stay on. So I gave up. I think i'm just going to call an electrician, but I wanted to see if anyone has any last minute thoughts based on the recent experience...

Update: The repairman is correcting drainage in the back yard, although my friend says that he's convinced that water infiltration was not the issue, and the vapor barrier will correct the problem. I don't think the window/wall AC was allowing water to infiltrate, or at least it didn't appear to be when I cleaned it, but it was letting in humid air and mold spores from the outside. I'm not totally convinced about the AC, though. We have two small rooms on the south side of our house, which are not air conditioned (or heated unless temps are consistently below freezing). Both are used as air locks to exterior doors in the winter, with a window kept open in each during the summer. In the larger of the two, the mudroom, I keep a window fan running most of the time in the summer, but I know that humid air enters when the fan isn't running, and I've never had mold in that room. However, it's an enclosed, glazed brick porch on a slab, so no crawl space. The smaller room is at the end of a new addition, is framed on three sides, joins the glazed brick on the other side, and is over a crawl space with a sump pump. It will eventually be two smaller areas--a 5x7 bathroom and an air lock entry, but it's currently being used as a tool room. No mold issues there, either, so experience tells me that it's not just humid air that's causing the mold bloom in my friend's house.