Hi, Jon1270, we are not planning on reroofing the 2 yr old roof. Just the part we couldn't afford to do 2 yrs. ago. we want to do the rest of the roof now since we are doing an addition. but the gc recommends just putting a second layer on top of the old roof instead of a tear off. we did a tear off 2yrs ago that's what was recommended at the time. Ron6519, you can see all roofs at the same time. but i'm concerned a second layer on some parts and one layer on the other will look funny?

Okay, here's where we now stand. The roofer who oversaw the roofing job (not the roofer of record), seems to feel he is responsible, since I first contracted with him. He feels that the reason the water got under the drip edge where it did is that the gutter had been raised in order to pitch it the "correct" way, and it was not low enough, that the drip edge was going into the gutter instead of sitting above it. He wants to either cover the fascia board with aluminum and run it up under the roof with a bead of caulk, or, place the "flap" of the drip edge against the fascia board and put the gutter up against it so there is no opening for the water to get into. I had the rep from Tamko at the house. He feels that the color problem resulted in the run between colors not being discarded, told me it RARELY happens , and is suggesting that the roofer swap about five sections with other sections from an upper roof, and hand seal them. He insists the integrity of the roof will not be compromised, and that it will look perfect. He also says that Tamko has no liability for color, that their warranty does not cover it, and he spoke to both roofers, partly in my presence, and partly while he "hid" in the driveway. I have to assume Tamko is going to pay for this work, but I was not told anything other than that someone else from Tamko would come to the house to look it over, and make arrangements. He then said that I would be asked to sign a release after the work is done. Interesting, in light of the fact that he is saying Tamko has no responsibility, that they simply want a "happy customer". I am not sure I am happy about them pulling out sections of roofing and replacing it, so I would like some opinions here. I had another roofer come in to give me some ideas on the ice damming and backup situation. He also mentioned aluminum on the fascia, he did not get up on a ladder so he can't comment on the drip edge, but he also mentioned another product which is "sticky", like the shield, which he feels he could put on the edge of the roof behind the gutter. Will this work with everything that is already in place? I feel like I have just spent over $13,000 for a nightmare, and I don't want it compounded, but the only reason we even did the roof was because of the backup of the water after a snow, and this problem has not been remedied.

We recently purchased our home, an 1840s New Englander. We live in Maine. We knew when we bought the house that it would need a new roof. I am on my 7th contractor now getting estimates. We've thrown out the guys who were just too cheap, but we were thinking about going with a local company who gave us an estimate that seemed reasonable at the time. Right in the middle. Today he came by with his revised (allegedly more accurate) estimate and his price went up $5000. Eeek. Now he is as high as Home Depot. I liked the guy and we need a lot of other work done and he would be a good person to hire for all the other work, but the jump in roofing price just blew me away. The other companies all estimate 30-35 squares for the roof and he is estimating 44. His labor is ofcourse based on the number of squares. I don't want to be paying for labor to tear off and put on a new roof based on 10 extra squares as that is a $2000 difference. (he is charging $100 for tear off and $100 for install per square). Our price estimates range from a low of $7K to a high of $15K with this guy going from $8K (where most of the pack was) to $13,400 (HD is at $15K) I've been crunching numbers and scratching my head and it looks to come down to the number of squares being the big difference. Not to mention the cost of re-leading the two chimneys ($1000) and there is nothing included for repairing a part of the soffit where the squirrels have made three holes and the corners of the facia/trim boards another squirrel ingress/egress point) This contractor says he likes to order a little more than he needs so he doesn't run out, but it also seems that it would be fair for me to ask that I only pay labor on the squares he uses and he return the squares that he does not use. I decided to call back one roofing company to come out and measure again - just to check the numbers. Just for clarity sake - this is a 3000 sq. foot New Englander. We are also including a detached garage roof measuring at 9 square. All of the roofers so far measured out 14 for the main body, 10 for the ell and 9 for the garage. Does one really need 11 square extra? Just in case? Long question, but we are talking a lot of money. Sorry. MP

There are usually connectors that join the corner piece with the gutters. The gutters slip ito a channel on each side. The connectors are compressed and a sealer is put on top. The screws are stupid, especially the locations. The same sealer is put on the inside of the end caps. The end caps should also be mechanically connected in addition to the sealer. I personally would install a metal flashing in addition to the ice and water shield, but unless you specify that, alot of roofers don't install it. Especially if the valley is closed by the roof. Was drip edge installed on the edge of the roof to guide water into the gutter? Without it water can get behind the gutter and seap out against the fascia. If water is leaking behind the fascia, you need to call the guys back because something is very wrong. Ron