Re using head gaskets is not a good idea. A sealant will not hold up under the heat and pressure. New head gaskets are crushed as the bolts are torqued down and do not return to their original shape when released. Replacements are inexpensive and readily available. As far as the carbon is concerned, some buildup is to be expected.

Are you insane ? Why didn't you take the car to a rad shop and have them recore it ? They take a big pair of snips and cut off the core size you need from stock and reconnect your own upper and lower tanks. You now have a new rad. $100.00 plus tax. So, where is the water leaking from ? The rad or the engine. Makes a BIG difference. If the head gasket is leaking that bad you ain't driving the car. Something else is wrong. your first mechanic went away probably because someone or government was looking for him. Bottom line is, you got a PROBLEM. Find someone that actually knows what they're doing or send it to a dealer. Spend the money. Mind you if the trans is slipping send it to the press. You have what is called a disposable vehical.It's done it's time. If your husband is thinking of putting liquid glass or saw dust into the engine "somewhere" you might want to slam his testicles down on the toilet seat. It ain't going to work. Actually i'm wrong. It should work and get it off the driveway if you sell the car. I feel sorry for the buyer. Good luck.

Dear Faron: My husband read my post and made some corrections. I'll answer you and make the corrections below in UPPER CASE. I'M NOT YELLING, THOUGH :) 1) You applied a tinted latex primer over contractors work. Correct? YES 2) Exactly what primer & tone of color were used? BENJ MOORE PRIMER FRESH START ACRYLIC. STONE SOMETHING, A MEDIUM COLOR AT 50% WAS USED TO TINT. 3) Your own joint-compound repairs were done OVER this newly primed surface?? YES, BUT IT REALLY WASN'T THE SEAMS, IT WAS MORE SLIGHT LOW AREAS IN THE SKIM COAT. 4) Were YOUR repairs primed over? YES WITH THE SAME BENJ MOORE FRESH START. 5) What do you mean by the "joint-compound with a latex additive"? Or, am I mis-reading this? HUSBAND CORRECTED ME THAT IT WAS A VINYL SPACKLE. 6) At any point...was the wall ever sanded AND vacuumed off?? THE WALL WAS SANDED DOWN TO A SMOOTH FINISH AND WIPED WITH A DRY CLOTH PRIOR TO PAINTING. This is what we determined. Yesterday morning was foggy/dewy. This is being painted in our future house (old construction though) where no a/c or heat was run. Husband said the windows had condensation on the outside. The bubbling occurred most on the wall near the windows. The clue to our answer is, "Why didn't we have problems the first time we primed but had problems the second time we primed when the same products were being used each time." Now that we know the cause and will run the a/c or heater to dry any area prior to painting ever again, BUT what's the best way to handle what we have now? - Sanding, patching, repriming the bubbled areas...is it going to peel in adjacent areas? - If it didn't bubble, is it ok to paint the final coat of Benj Moore Regal Eggshell? Or do we need to Kilz now to try to prevent the whole wall from peeling off? Any insight is REALLY, REALLY appreciated. He worked a long time on that large entry way with 15' ceilings and are just sick over it. Thank you.

If you lift the inside gasket edge away from the door there is usually hex head screws holding the gasket to the door. Those screws also hold the plastic tray assembly in place on the door frame. Michael