If the flange is secure, you actually can leave the flange "as is" with the layers right under the flange ring. I write that because if you damage the flange it can create a whole new can of worms if the flange or flange-to-pipe connection was damaged and had to be repaired/replaced. However, I'd cut the plywood back closer to the flange, I'd cut back at least to the same size as the first layer that's on top of the plywood in the photo. You might find that the closer to the flange you cut, you can then dig out the layers under the flange. If you get there, then you can simply install new layers of your flooring sandwich around the flange. The new layers don't have to go under the flange, the new layers can encircle the flange. However, if yo have, say, a 3/4" gap between the top of the subfloor and the bottom of the flange, then just cut some small wood blocks (say four blocks, 1" square and 3/4" high for example or sized as needed) that will fit snugly between the flange and the subfloor, and set the blocks around the flange at the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions. Keep the blocks clear of the flange bolt locations. The flange itself should be securely attached to the waste pipe beneath. Use a putty knife or equivalent to scrape away the residual wax. Toilets are pretty easy to install, but if this is your first time I do have a recommendation. Use a waxless adapter. Something like the Fernco. Size the waxless adapter to the size of your waste pipe. The thing is that wax rings are "one and done" things. If you set the wax ring, then set the toilet, but then you have to pull the toilet up again to reset it, technically you would want to scrap away the deformed ring and install a new ring, even though the ring you just installed is only 10 seconds old. Once a wax ring is deformed you can't really count on it to give you a good seal the second time the toilet is set. With the Fernco, you set it on the base of the toilet. Then you can set the toilet, pull it, reset, pull, reset, etc. It's good forever, so to speak. You can set a toilet that is fully assembled. Again if you think the weight might be a problem, you can remove the tank from the bowl. then just position and set the bowl. Then reinstall the tank on the bowl. Then shim the base, snug the bolts, and there you go. And as always, do NOT overtighten any of the bolts that go through the china. Snug them up but don't crank down so hard that you overtighten them. You don't want to crack the china. If the base wobbles on your new floor, don't try to make it wobble-free by cinching down hard on the flange bolts. Use toilet shims between the tile and the toilet base. Then snug up the flange bolts. Buy a new set of flange bolts too. Good luck and happy toileting!

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I figured that since a fat wax ring didn't hold the first time, some kinda extension was in order. The home center didn't have any kind of different ones, just about 1/4 thick hard plastic (like the pipe). No kind of seal on it so I figured a little silicone wouldn't hurt. When i went to clean up the orginal cast flange but some of the pipe was sticking above the flange. It wasn't the cleanest cut (even for cast iron) not sure why it would be like that. Took a grinder and removed the excess pipe and clean up the flange surface. Then a little cleaning and silicone and the two extenders. let the calk dry good and put it all back together. No leaks yet! Kid keeps clogging it with too much tp.

Sounds like we are all on the same page! I actually like to do the hand-stitching. It's like the final relaxing moment after the frenetic cutting, stitching, pressing and the dreaded sandwiching. And I do it the same way all of you have said, single thread, consistent approximately 1/4 inches, I don't stitch down the miters and somehow I don't get the pig snouts - I guess it's the way I routinely sew the binding and do the mitering on the front. And I finally studied the videos enough awhile back on how to join the ends of the bindings so that I don't have that lump anymore. I decided to do a quick and fun project last week, a baby quilt. I didn't do the normal binding on it, I just folded the top over to the back and sewed it down. OK for a quick project but definitely not quality. Now if someone has any tips on how to keep pieced backings from getting cockeyed I'll be truly grateful! I'm sure it has something to do with how you do the sandwich. I try and try to keep the bottom even with the top but usually something gets skewed or shorted on one end or something. Maybe that needs a separate thread??

I am just here to say that.... wow. I found this thread an hour ago via a Google search. BM has samples 50% off right now for 1/2 a pint so its like 2.99 a piece and with Free Shipping.. Sounded like a really good deal, as i paid $18 (on sale, in addition to borrowing my dad's small discount he recieves for using his store loyalty rewards card) for a pint this morning of another equally consistently good paint that ive used. I have been flipping furniture and doing a lot of DIY type things, as well as am an artist with an educational background in color and how paints have historically been created (and marketed)- for extra money since the pandemic happened. And yes - paint has gotten so expensive. I understand the quality and work that goes into developing the higher end paints and the skill in those that use it for way bigger jobs than i do. And in totally respect that. But In regards to what I need it for- I simply cannot pay $30-80 a quart. I will buy samples and mess-ups all day long as cheap as I can find them. I will literally choose the color I am going to use based soley on what's cheapest. And that's only because this is like a hobby that occasionally will make me some really good extra money. I don't depend on it as my main job- so I'm definitely not in the same position many of you are. But when I saw the discrepancy in price, it made me pause and do some googling. i think i typed in "why are bm samples so cheap and are they the same paint they sell?" And the very first link Google gave me was this thread. I have learned more in the last 1.5 hours (9 years for you guys) about paint most people will ever know. Like, EVER. Y'all are some dedicated and highly intelligent people and I never knew there was so much misinformation to customers, unregulated practices among businesses, opposing opinions among companies and professionals, nor did i know there were people like Lori who is still showing up after 9 years to answer people's questions and provide answers and solutions. I'm just very impressed with this whole thread right now. I work in the Anti-trafficking movement and I though we were persistent 🤣 It's just super cool to see people caring so much about their work, each other, their industry and its just nothing like I ever would've expected. keep up the good fight. We'd love to have some of you bring this dedication and commitment to excellence and holding your industry accountable on over to help us fight. We could all learn from folks like you 🥰