What I do for security, i.e. ground floor is make a plywood cover that fits into the jamb (or lies against exterior trim, whichever is better for your project and weathertightness), but is securely held into the opening buy using long carriage bolts that run from the plywood and extend far enough into the room that they go through a 2 x 4 that lies aginst the inside of the window casing parallel to floor. (Tall windows need two 2 x 4s, smaller windows can get by with only one.) This allows you to secure the plywood without making any nail holes on the trim. Plus if you have same-sized windows, you can just reuse the plywood for other windows. If you start on your larger windows and complete them first, you can just keep cutting down the plywood and 2 x 4s as you go on to smaller windows. Or if you have many windows, you could keep one of each size to use as emergency repairs. What this contraption is (from outside) 1 X 4 lying flat against plywood; washer and bolt running from 1X4, through plywood, exposed within window opening, then through 2X4 with large washers and nut on end. I have simple D-handles mounted on inside of plywood to make it easier for helper to grasp it while it's being installed and snugged up. You can weatherstrip this with felt or foam strips if it was cold weather. The plywood and lack of light is a great motivator to keep the project moving along as it is U.G.L.Y! If you go the plastic route then I suggest you use greenhouse batten tape (a fairly thick white plastic band that's used to hold down plastic covers on greenhouses). This can be stapled up with plastic and only makes small easy to patch holes on trim. It's designed for holding sheet plastic taut and works very well. If there's any chance you'll have the windows out for more than a few weeks, I'd also suggest using te more expensive UV-stabilized plastic films designed as greenhouse covers. Both of the products could be purchased at greenhouse suppliers. I have also used something called a WindoTherm panel in a custom-made, non-marking set-up installed from the inside. One winter this was my only covering on a bathroom window and it did just fine, even though it was only two layers of plastic film. Cats are hard on Windotherms however. HTH, L

North...one should de-glaze with room temperature liquid, and do it slowly, to avoid thermal shock. Never use cold water or a significant amount of cooler liquid quickly. Most warping occurs from incorrect usage: Bring the cookware to temperature slowly. Do not dump cold water into or on top of a hot pan. Always match the burner size to the pan size. Large pans can be more susceptible to warping if the burner is a ring. This is due to the lack of even heating across the surface. A pan with excellent heat conductivity, such as copper, will mitigate this. Some high-quality stainless steel brands are Demeyere, Viking, and Mauviel.

The back of the house faces southwest. For ten months of the year I like having the light streaming in the windows, but for two months of the year it would be nice to block it out! As for the WTs, I don't like the aluminum blinds enough to put them on the other windows. I'd rather go without! I had to go and look for pictures of the back of the house. Construction: Closer later: In retrospect, on my list of "things I would have changed had I known better", we would have extended the roofline to partially the cover the deck. One of our neighbours did something similar, and I really like it. At about 16'x30', the deck is plenty large enough to allow for two areas. Carrie

Windows on Washington Ltd, Yes, of course, there are going to be formal drawings, but I'm trying to decide how I want it to look, what the heights of the windows can be etc. I do understand your point that framing etc dictates much of this, but I'm working on ideas and aesthetics. Then when I meet with the person doing the plans I will have firm ideas on what I want it to look like. Do you have a suggestion for a planner I might use? thank you